valve covers, heater blower motor

[nonstuck]

Hi,

Have been a 'visitor' to this forum for some time, finally joined.
I did some searching, but have yet to find a definitive answer;
use gasket sealant on rubber gaskets for valve covers or no?
I just installed new ones but the right bank seeps in the middle,
natch, the toughest side. So I have removed it again, and
found the edge appears to be bent a bit, going to straighten
it the best I can, and reinstall. I did use sealant the first time
and the left side is dry. Just don't want to do it again ( if sealant
is the problem).
Also, my heater blower motor works on all speeds, but high is
what I would say the middle position rpm should be. Just not
quite cutting it. Search revealed the resistor is the culprit for
speeds not working. But as I said, it operates on all speeds
just not fast enough rpm's. Any suggestions ?
Thanks for the help

 

[Bronco_Chuck]

if the blower isn't spinning as fast as it should there is a resistance somewhere in the circuit. also just so you know my 84 blower fan does not spin very fast the high setting ether, so im not sure if there really is a problem or if the blower motor was designed to be a little on the slow side. if it really bothers you that buck you could always remove the old resistors and instal new lower resistance resistors.

 

[nonstuck]

Thanks, good to know that info.

I appreciate your time.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I always used gasket sealant on my 2.9's when I did valve cover gaskets and I usually used the rubber gaskets. Just slobered some Indian Head gasket sealant or Permagasket on them an no leaks. Bit messy though an not fun to take apart, lol.

 

[nonstuck]

exactly...hopin' third time will be the proverbial charm !
thanks for the input.

 

[AllanD]

I never used valve cover gaskets on my 2.9's

With a cover gasket the covers always leak
sealant makes the rubber gaskets worse.

What I always did was track down a set of 1990-92 valve covers
(with the upturned lip) then install them WITHOUT gaskets

Clean everything carefully with a handheld wire brush and LIBERAL application
of brakecleen and use Ultra-grey permatex to glue the cover in place.

Now because you got solvent and chunks into the engine change the oil before you start it up.

Also allow plenty of time for the sealant to cure.

BTW, silicone cures very slowly in dry climates

AD

 

[adsm08]

I actually (and to my utter amazement) have a set of the 90-92 upturned covers on my truck, with rubber gaskets, and a double layer of RTV Gasket Maker on my 2.9 and it doesn't leak. That's right, I triple gasketed with out any leakage.

I put that setup together when I was about 18, before I really knew what I was doing, and by the time I realized it it had been together with no leaks for almost a year, so I didn't see the point in taking it apart to fix it.

Non, I think it kinda sounds like you may have a warped cover, If you have get a set of the upturned ones, they bend as easy, but they are easier to straighten out if you need to. That's the way I'd go. Upturned units and a tube of black Permatex RTV gasket maker.

 

[nonstuck]

Thanks for all the replies guys.
Wealth of knowledge and info
does not go unappreciated !
Sure is nice to have a vehicle
old enough that it doesn't have
to be taken to a dealer for every
little thing. Course, could'nt afford
one new enough to have to worry!
Plus, the ol' girl was born right here
in the U.S. 25 years young and still
able to go anywhere I need (and don't
need to go) !

 

[Totalled]

On my 2.8, I used cork gaskets, installed dry with a dab of rtv on the seam between the head and intake. The valve covers were the only gasket that didn't leak on it...