Vacuum Delete

[komoto123]

Alright so to start off. I am getting rid of all the emissions equipment. I live in Kentucky its legal. I have gotten rid of the air pump, bypass, control valve, and the tube attached to the exhaust manifold. Now i want to get rid of all the vacuum solenoid crap next to the starter solenoid, but I am not sure what all i can get rid of. They go in order IAS, EGR, EGR, TAB, TAD, TCP. I know i can get rid of TAB/TAD since they follow the air pump, but what does TCP control? The IAS goes to the A/CL dv (air cleaner divert valve) but what does the A/CL dv do?

What is TCP?
What does Air cleaner divert valve control?
What/where is the EGR on the carb?

1985 ford ranger 2.8 v6 4x4 manual tran.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[komoto123]

OK so i know that TCP stands for Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump but still do not know if i need it or what it does? Right now i do not even have any vacuum lines running past the vreser (vacuum reservoir).

 

[martin]

If you do a duraspark conversion you can lose all of it, and half the wiring in the engine bay. All information you will need to do it can be found in the tech library..

 

[komoto123]

Thank you Martin for your quick reply. I am familiar with the tech library but was just confused as to if the duraspark conversion deleted the vacuum lines since it didn't state it.

Thanks

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The TCP is just a valve that shuts off the accelerator pump when vacuum is applied.
The air diverter valve controls the motor for the door on the air filter housing the preheater duct from the exhaust manifold puts hot air into the carb until yhe engine reaches 140 degrees and then the computer closes the door to fresh air from the front of the radiator support. A common vacuum leak to miss is the vacuum line to the CPRV it goes to the EGR spacer pointing straight back at the firewall. The CPVR is the solenoid with the two wire plug. I just wired mine to where both solenoids turn on with key on hot but if you dont want the carbon cannister to work then just cap the port on the back of the egr spacer under the carb. Its hard to see under the brake booster hose behind the carb. The only vacuum you need for the duraspark is brake booster, PCV and vacuum advance. If your running the feedback carb just hook the distributor to manifold vacuum after you set the base timing at 10 degrees. At idle speed the timing should be around 20 degrees with the vacuum connected then set the idle air jets for the highest possible rpms then adjust the idle speed around 700 rpms. I have been running #42 jets for some time now without a hitch and plenty of power. The key is setting the idle air needles out 3 1/2 turn from lightly seated. Start it and set the base timing to 10 degrees and then connect the vacuum advance. set the idle speed on the side of the carb to 700 rpms be sure and remove the old idle control motor at the base of the carb and make sure the choke is fully open. The adjust the idle air needles for the highes possible lean rpms. Turn them out first and back in until the rpm just begins to drop. If you have a vacuum guage use it the same way either highest rpm or vacuum pressure they are real close.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you engine smokes when you start it warm the valve guide seals are probably non existant. You can change them without pulling the heads I was getting around 300 miles per quart of oil.

 

[SenorNoob]

Correct me if I'm wrong but, weren't those FEDERAL requirements? Meaning it's illegal to tamper with emissions systems anywhere inside the US?

I'm not denying that you can get it to run better without many of those systems, especially on a truck that old with most of them not functioning anyway.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Correct me if I'm wrong but, weren't those FEDERAL requirements? Meaning it's illegal to tamper with emissions systems anywhere inside the US?

I'm not denying that you can get it to run better without many of those systems, especially on a truck that old with most of them not functioning anyway.

It is against federal law to remove the CAT for any vehicle that came out with one stock. It dont need to be working just present upon inspection. If it needs to pass emissions then yes all the stock emissions need to be present and working. Here in WA If you fail emissions you can get a waiver but you need to spend a certain amount of money at a certified state approved specialist to qualify for the waiver.

 

[komoto123]

Like i posted at the top i live in Ky so no smog or emissions tests. So i am good, plus i am not doing the exhaust right now just the duraspark.

 

[SenorNoob]

I thought the Cat thing was just the most common part for people to lose and that all of it mattered. I guess not outside California.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What usually happens with the 2.8 is the valve guide seal disintegrate and the oil destroys the cat and the pieces of catalist plug up the muffler. Take the palm of your hand and slap the muffeler if you hear ratteling you may have a restriction in the muffler. Pull the cat and rod it out good replace the muffler and your set. My muffler guy welded in a new muffler for $25 bucks took him around 15 minutes bought the muffler at autozone for around $50.