v8 swap question

[FirstRanger86]

Hi everyone, just wanted to introduce myself. I just got an 86 Ranger 2.9L auto (2WD) at an farm auction. It's been sitting for sometime, but the fuel pump whirrs when I put the jumpstarter on the vehicle. I may try to get it running to tool around in, but I'm intrigued by the 302 swap.

I'm going to a big pick and pull in a few weeks, what would be the ONE (if possible) ideal vehicle to pull a drivetrain from, that has 5.0, C4, the rear sump oil pan, etc? I'd rather go carbureted, and put a regulator on my existing fuel system.

Any recommendations for startup with this project (collecting parts) would be appreciated!

Tom

 

[dangerranger83]

Welcome.

The search button will help you out but also there is a tech library full of information on doing a 302 swap.

Are you just wanting a 302 and don't care about what kind of 302 and the power it puts out?

There is a write-up in the tech library on doing a FI swap that will work with your current FI wiring harness, pumps, etc... just have to do a couple extra things to your truck and your good to go. Take a look and you will be amazed on how far you will be able to answer all your own questions. Also in this v8 conversion section and other people's build threads will help you see what we have personally done.

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[FirstRanger86]

I appreciate it. I just wondered if there is a "perfect" vehicle to find. Based on my reading, could be the 75-78 Mustang II with the 302. Carbed, proper sump, smaller flywheel/bellhousing/starter, exhaust manifolds that will fit. Those are hard to find.

 

[shane96ranger]

the 75-78 Mustang II with the 302.

And 120 horsepower. You'd be better off sticking with the RBV motor. If you want to make a difference, get something 86 and newer.

 

[FirstRanger86]

Shane,
I hear you. If I'm going to go to the trouble, it may as well move.
I hate the idea of putting in a new ECU with all the wires and sensors. It's a nightmare when troubleshooting those systems.

I just want a plain ol 302 with C4, 4bbl carb and manifolds from the 70s. Pull out the wires and ECU, and go.

Time to keep my eyes peeled for an old 302.

 

[Mac]

Still I would start with the latest EFI motor (Explorer prefered), pull and sell the intake and wiring and go with any carb/intake system you prefer. The 70's are junk f\or power, get a roller motor if possible. No problem getting a C-4 to fit in there.
Dave

 

[dangerranger83]

And the mustangs up till 85 had the 255.

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[Teddyzee]

And the mustangs up till 85 had the 255.

1979 and 1982-1993 had the 302 available. 255ci was 1980/81.

 

[shane96ranger]

1979 and 1982-1993 had the 302 available. 255ci was 1980/81.

This.

Sent from the can

 

[FirstRanger86]

so..maybe something like this:

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/3753679453.html

 

[shane96ranger]

I have some serious issues with the way that motor is sitting (resting on the rocker arms) on the pallet or whatever that is. I would in no way accept that motor as mine unless it was being rebuilt.

But yeah, you get the idea on what you need. I personally would not want that particular motor. Your absolute best bet is a 96-01 Explorer. Better heads, intake, throttle body, and injectors.... they are superior to the motors put in the Mustang (once the cam is changed).

 

[dangerranger83]

A "perfect" start I would say it's get a roller block one, they started those in 85.

I have a 91 out of a grand marque and put an 85 mustang HO can in it and that bumped me from 155hp to 200hp. I didn't have to swap out lifters due to it having roller lifters. Other then that my engine is stock. Plus the good part is, it already had the dual sump pan. Down side is it has the cast dishes pistons that don't have valve reliefs but you can still put e7 heads on it with an HO cam and be fine.

Also remember, roller blocks have steel cams, flat tappet have iron cams and this is important when putting a dizzy in due to the flat tappet has an iron gear and the roller had a steel and you can't mix and match. But I have heard you can use a brass gear but haven't seen anybody here do it.

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[RangerSVT]

Doing an efi swap can be overwhelming, when you first look at it. Most people think its easier to go carb. But think about it this way, and I speak from experience, if you go carb in an originally efi vehicle, you will need to both get a fuel pressure regulator and rewire the fuel pump relay, or replace the in-tank sending unit with an older style, providing it fits the tank, and run new fuel lines or adapt to the efi fuel lines.
What if I told you by going with the explorer motor and efi that you only need to hook up 5 wires to get the motor running? Compare this to the 3-5 wires needed to hook up for the dizzy and ignition box for a carb, but without the fuel regulator issues. Got your attention yet? Wiring can be overwhelming, but when it comes to the Ford efi system, each connector will only go to its designated sensor, with the exception of the fuel injectors. But the injector plugs are arranged so that its virtually impossible to mix up. Also, it only takes 2 switched power wires, one constant power wire, and two ground wires, and the motor will run. If you want stock oil pressure and water temp gauges, that's a couple more wires. If you want a diagnostic port, that's 3 more wires. Best of all, all of these wires all come from one plug on the explorer system, no more multiple plugs to deal with. If this is starting to sound like an option you want to persue, I would be happy to help you with the wiring part of the swap. I can even set up the plug for you if need be...

SVT

 

[FirstRanger86]

Thanks, guys, I am on the hunt for an engine.
One other question I have, after reading multiple build threads:
As far as the motor mounts go, are there any bolt in options, or do they have to be relocated no matter what? Having a hard time visualizing thebest way to do this. I don't own a cutting torch or welder.

 

[RangerSVT]

Your best bet would be the stock 2.9/4.0 mounts with a plate that bolts to the motor. This gives you infinite adjustability without pulling the motor and drilling another hole in the engine crossmember like you would have to do with the mustang motor mount style. Both ways are plenty strong, but I believe the stock rubber mounts is an easier route since you don't have to pull the motor multiple times to figure out your mounting holes...

SVT