V8 Build Thread: 5.0 for 3.slow

[RangerSVT]

You will need a tune. The ECU is looking for OSS, ISS, and TCCS. That's why it's searching for idle. Power and running issues, along with fuel pressure, is O2 related as it can't detect input from the sensors. Also, if you didn't swap over the sensors from the fuel tank, you will have emissions codes, so have them deleted in the tune as well. The tcase motor could have been swapped from the 54 to the 06 to avoid cut/splice. The motor mounts could have been taken from the donor for a 100% bolt in swap on the motor end. Looks like a good swap though, enjoy the power, I know I do....


SVT

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

You will need a tune. The ECU is looking for OSS, ISS, and TCCS. That's why it's searching for idle. Power and running issues, along with fuel pressure, is O2 related as it can't detect input from the sensors. Also, if you didn't swap over the sensors from the fuel tank, you will have emissions codes, so have them deleted in the tune as well. The tcase motor could have been swapped from the 54 to the 06 to avoid cut/splice. The motor mounts could have been taken from the donor for a 100% bolt in swap on the motor end. Looks like a good swap though, enjoy the power, I know I do....


SVT

Yea I realized that about the shift motor after I'd already spliced it. It was a duh moment for sure. But it works anyway so I'm happy. Figured I'd need a tune to get it running right. Good for me the guy doing the exhaust work also does custom tunes

Thanks for the info.

 

[Twister]

I am doing a 302 swap in an 85 B2 using a M5ODR2, did you just use the factory 3L clutch line?

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[shr3dd3r 09]

I am doing a 302 swap in an 85 B2 using a M5ODR2, did you just use the factory 3L clutch line?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

Yes I did. They were compatible. The slave cylinder is also the same part number in my case. I'd double check with some other folks about your particular year though. I don't know if they ever changed anything or not.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

One concern I have is about the radiator. I compared the Mountaineer's radiator to the original Ranger radiator, and they are exactly the same size so I just used the same one I had. I thought the Mountaineer's was supposed to be twice as thick? The Mountaineer didn't overheat when I drove it, so I guess I shouldn't be concerned, but still it is strange to think the two radiators would be the same size since the 5.0 is much larger.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Got the truck back from the muffler shop today. Exhaust pipes and O2 sensors all hooked up. And it is fantastic. I still need to have the computer flashed to get rid of the auto tranny codes and also I need to rewire the tachometer for the V8. My temperature gage isn't working, so I need to look into that as well. But the Ranger drives excellent with the 5-speed behind it.

It has a slight hesitation every now and then, like a misfire. I assume it's because the auto tranny functions are still in there as I have heard of others having this problem. I will post some more pics soon and maybe a video if I have a chance to make one.

 

[Twister]

Where did you pick up that new block plate at? I looked all around for a new one and couldn't find one?

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[shr3dd3r 09]

Where did you pick up that new block plate at? I looked all around for a new one and couldn't find one?

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http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=l1315726&submit=

Try that link. If it doesn't bring it up put in the vehicle info. It's a Lakewood product. The only one I could find at the time.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Mechanic hooked a scan tool up and determined that both of my upstream o2 sensors were bad, and that my thermostat was stuck open. It's been so cold lately that the engine hasn't been getting up to normal operating temp.

So the O2 sensors combined with the thermostat issue might be why the idle is random and sometimes shoots up when depressing the clutch. Replacing those to see if it runs better.

 

[doorgunner]

I'd replace the thermostat/clear out the trouble codes...then drive it a few days to see if the 02 sensors started operating correctly before replacing them.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

I already replaced everything. Runs a little better, but I still have a pretty bad case of surging idle. rpms increase every time I depress the clutch. Sitting at stop lights is annoying since it idles anywhere between 1000 and 3000 depending on the mood it's in. I assume it's still the auto tranny stuff in the computer messing with it so I guess I will still need a tune. At least I have a new thermostat and o2 sensors...

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Thought I'd better check the TPS sensor to make sure it isn't the source of my idle surges. It measured 1.15 Volts at closed throttle. If I understand correctly the computer doesn't know it's idling until the voltage is below 1 Volt.

So I adjusted the TB screw so that the voltage is at 0.93 volts at closed throttle. This could be the whole problem, but I haven't had a chance to drive it yet to find out. Hopefully that solves the issue.

 

[Thed]

Get an Ultra Gauge and it could tell you all you'd need. Intake temp, coolant temp, throttle position (in percentage), MPG, engine load... ect. I love mine.

And thanks for the ink to the block plate. I'll probably be getting that too.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Just got the Ranger back from the shop. I had a tune written to get rid of the auto tranny functions. No more RPM spikes. It drives great. The rpms stay around 1500-1700 when coasting in neutral, and when I stop completely they drop to about 1000 and it idles smooth.

Is that supposed to happen? I have been told the rpms stay higher while coasting for brake assist and power steering, but it never did that with the old motor and computer. Not an issue really, but I'm still curious about it.

However, after it sits idling for about 3-5 minutes the rpms will drop to 500 (according to the tach, which may not be exactly right because it sounds slower to me) and it just sounds like it's really laboring and the whole truck shakes. Not sure what causes this. Then after I get moving and come to a stop again it will idle at 1000 smoothly for a few minutes and then drop to 500 and start chugging. The cycle repeats.

Does the computer decrease engine speed after idling for a certain period of time? I am curious if the base idle speed is just set too low now, if that is what it's trying to return too. I assumed it would return to idle immediately when stopped, but it sits at 1000 and then falls after 3-5 minutes and starts to run rough. If so I need to adjust because it sounds rough and acts like it wants to die. No CEL's either.

Sorry for the long winded post, I'd just like to get this last issue resolved and it will be perfect.

 

[frogman]

I am doing the 5.0 swap into my 2000 ranger 4x4 and am mostly done. I appreciate all the info you have posted it has been a help as I did not buy an explorer/mountaineer to do the swap, I have gathered all the pieces and done the work. In hindsight I should have just bought an explorer/mountaineer. Oh well. Anyway...

Question for you. The last thing I have to do is the battery wiring harness. I don't have the one from the ranger (I sold the motor, tranny, transfer case and all the wiring). So I grabbed one from a 97 mountaineer, it didn't cost me anything. The problem is, it is not exactly what I need and honestly I am not sure exactly what I need. Any info here you can provide is GREATLY appreciated! Did you use the one from the ranger? If not, what did you use? Did you have to do anything to it to get it to work?

Thanks so much for your time,
Clay