Used Can Opener on Ranger

[Blown]

I cut the back of the cab out and the front of the bed/shell. I will get up some pics soon, easier than trying to describe what I did. I trimmed-up the openings to match each other so a good rubber acordian boot would fit and seal well. Now it needs an inner trim boot and more work to make the bed more comfortable and insulated.

 

[Mark_88]

I did the same thing in 2003 or so...I managed to keep the lower 4" or so of both sides of the wall and secured them together to help make it more stable and to keep the integrity of the cab. I also did not cut out the upper window arch so the cab would be stronger.

Pics would be nice...I don't think I have any left of mine but I did manage to seal the rain and exhaust out...think I used pool noodles initially...lol

 

[Blown]

Ruffcut

I used 1/8" X 4" steel plate to round out the corners, match the shell opening and cab opening to each other, and to provide structural riggiditity to the openings. I welded it to the sheet metal and bonded the shell plate to the fiberglass with construction adhesive.

trimmed and accordian seal installed

 

[Mark_88]

Looks really clean...like a pro!

The extended cab has an extra 12" or so of room to stretch out or add storage if desired...I used a regular cab 6' box...

Not sure if you are aware of the body flex issues in these trucks...but it stopped me from trying too hard to fix the bed to the cab. Apparently there is typically quite a bit of flex or movement between the two sections when going over even minor uneven surfaces. Not that I was intending to off road in my 2 wheel drive 4 banger...but I kept it in mind.

Only other caveat to consider...the heaters in these trucks are not capable of keeping the entire area warm...I didn't really notice any problems until the temps dropped to -35 C a few days in a row...it was very cold and I kept looking at the temp gauge to see if was going negative on me...lol. I suppose I could have blocked part of the rad on those days but I was more concerned with just getting down the road...heat was optional.

Anyway...looking good!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Looks pretty good.
Another consideration would be occupant protection from flying articles in an accident. I was really lucky in an accident with a station wagon many years ago....I hit another vehicle while going about 30mph. Not too bad until you realized that the jackall kept traveling at 30 mph right out the front windshield. That windshield could have been the back of my head.

 

[Blown]

Thanks for the replies!

I plan on making a snap-in or velcro curtain to keep the heat and cool in when I want.

I'll get more pics up when I complete the trim.

 

[wildbill23c]

Very interesting idea. Looks great, a bit of work involved, but looks professional.

 

[Blown]

My to do list:
I am going to make an inner boot of carpet and padding to snap or velcro on.
I am going to get some plywood for the sides of the bed, and will carpet and insulate them.
I am likely to at least insulate the tailgate.

 

[Blown]

It has rained twice, hard, and no leaks!!!

However, The bed of the truck produces more base than my sub woofer. I can bang on the middle of the bed with my hand and get a rather loud, deep, base note. It makes that note every bump I hit! Even a crack in the road.

First thing I tried was insulation and carpet. That attenuated the noise a bit. The second thing was to put some rubber between the frame and bed. That also helped. The bed was mounted directly to the frame, now it has 1/4" of rubber there. I can stand it now, however I want to do better.

I am wondering what to do next? I think at this point I need to weld-in another cross brace in the center of the bed or use some peel and stick sound deadening material, maybe both?

I found that the roofing material works good but will stink you out of your rig in warm weather. I think I could slap it under the bed and not have that issue. I wouldn't use it inside.

 

[Mark_88]

More likely the wheel wells are amplifying the sound and I'd suggest the peel and stick inside the box over them...you can put it on the outside but it presents a moisture trap if you are not careful...as well as being shredded by gravel roads unless you top it with a plastic liner...which I was going to do on my last Ranger but didn't finish that project.

The inner front fenders from a gen I are close to perfect but they do have a few holes that would need to be patched....or get a set of trailer wheel covers that you can slip up inside the well over the sound proofing...

I've actually walked through junk yards with an open mind a few times...just looking for things that would work for my situation and I always managed to find what I needed...

 

[dsltech83]

Also need to realize that the cab is mounted on rubber, bed mounted solid to frame. That is part of the noise issue.
Sweet build!

 

[Jim Oaks]

Sweet build.

Makes me miss my camper van. It's nice to be able to pull in somewhere and climb in the back to sleep without having to climb over seats, or exit the vehicle.

 

[Blown]

Yup, I did insulate the frame from the bed.

I didn't think much of the wheel wells, and I have not done anything to them yet.

The lowest, biggest note I get, is I believe from the center of the bed does not have a support under it. I can bang on the back and front of the bed and not get as much noise. Maybe I need to smack the fender wells around a bit too, to see what noise I get there.

I researched it a bit more and most say that the peal and seal roofing material will not stay on verticle much less so under the vehicle when it gets warm.

Maybe a sheet of 1/2" plywood would help? Or I need to pony-up and buy some good stuff.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Thats a really cool thing you did.....i like it....but...

Wont that seriously comprimise the structrual integrity of the cab and box?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If Rusty is questioning the structural integrity...