um... WTF!!!

[racing83x]

so 302, mazda 5 speed, duraspark 2, the starter wont disengage until i release the clutch, can this be a wiring issue or am i just not thinking outside the box and ford did something stupid like that.

 

[5.0]

Ford do something stupid? Haha... let me make a list!

I'm thinking you got your wiring jacked somewhere, don't sound like it's workin right.

 

[racing83x]

thats a possibility i will check the triple function switch and see if i can fix it. if not the neutral saftey switch is comin out

 

[baddad457]

so 302, mazda 5 speed, duraspark 2, the starter wont disengage until i release the clutch, can this be a wiring issue or am i just not thinking outside the box and ford did something stupid like that.

Sounds like a weak battery causing the solenoid switch to stick open.

 

[Earl43P]

I can think of only two scenarios for that situation.

The path for starter engagement is from the start contacts of the ignition switch through the clutch switch to the small fender solenoid post. If power is remaining at that post after you return the key to Run (if releasing the clutch removes that power), it HAS to be the ignition switch or its linkage.

You can verify that by removing the small electrical connector from the fender solenoid, (E-brake on, trans in neutral because the engine is about to start) then jumpering voltage from the large terminal post closest to that small post TO the small post. The starter should engage for the duration that you maintain that jumper. If the starter continues to run after you release the jumper, the starter gear shaft is probably gummed up and the gear is sticking. Unlikely, but possible.

You can also do that test with the fuel pump fuse pulled so the engine won't start. In that case, use the key instead of the jumper and see if a good key wiggling in the Run position makes it disengage. That condemns the linkage or switch. Releasing the clutch removes that power.

I'd leave the clutch switch in place unless you have the need to start the engine in gear when wheeling. Some find that "feature" useful, but I wouldn't do it if anyone else drives your truck.

 

[racing83x]

(Earl43P) well the only time the starter engages is when i push in the clutch pedal the ignition is working correctly, the batter is brand new. the ignition and starting process seems to be working correctly. i think its supposed to be this way because it is seriously right as i go to release the clutch pedal the starter disengages

 

[Earl43P]

(Earl43P) well the only time the starter engages is when i push in the clutch pedal the ignition is working correctly, the batter is brand new. the ignition and starting process seems to be working correctly. i think its supposed to be this way because it is seriously right as i go to release the clutch pedal the starter disengages

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding your problem.

My understanding was that you "press in the clutch, turn the key, crank the starter, the engine starts and the starter is staying engaged until you release the clutch."

The starter should disengage when you release the key from the Crank position and it springs back to Run.

If your starter remains engaged even though you released the key and you have to disengage the clutch pedal to make the starter disengage THAT IS A PROBLEM. Either your ignition electrical switch is stuck or the linkage from the keyhole to the switch is sticking.

 

[baddad457]

If the starter is staying engaged after you release the key, either the switch itself is gummed up, causing it to stick in the "start" position (my 77 Comet's ignition switch will do this occasionally), or something's a-miss in the wiring(never encountered this myself). A battery with low voltage will cause the starter solenoid switch to stick in the start position (had this happen many-a-time in the past 30-40 years of wrenching). A sticky starter bendix will also cause the starter to stay engaged.(this is a somewhat common occurence in old starters)

 

[bearsrngr]

If the starter is staying engaged after you release the key, either the switch itself is gummed up, causing it to stick in the "start" position (my 77 Comet's ignition switch will do this occasionally), or something's a-miss in the wiring(never encountered this myself). A battery with low voltage will cause the starter solenoid switch to stick in the start position (had this happen many-a-time in the past 30-40 years of wrenching). A sticky starter bendix will also cause the starter to stay engaged.(this is a somewhat common occurence in old starters)

I would have to agree. Did you replace the starter or ring gear? Does it make a lot of noise when cranking over? The drive may be binding a little and when you release the clutch you get enough movement to let the drive dissengage from the flywheel.

 

[racing83x]

i got it figured out. i had a starter for an automatic(was told there was no difference) got one for a manual tranny. also i did end up replacing the ignition switch and tumbler today. the key broke off in the tumbler so i decided to change both. good to go. first start on the swap will be tomorrow

 

[kimcrwbr1]

How do you have the duraspark module and coil wired. If you have both the start and run circuits on the coil maybe it is backfeeding power from the coil to the start solenoid until the clutch is disenguaged. Just a thought put a diode in the start wire to the coil.

 

[racing83x]

i actually have the module wired to the ignition switch. and to the clutch triple function switch