U-Joints, Greaseable or non Greaseable

[Bgunner]

I'm in the market for a set of U-joint for the Ranger and was curious about which ones last longer. Common thought would say Greaseable would last longer since they get fresh grease forced in and old dirty grease gets forced out But I have seen the non geasables go for 120,000+ with out issues causing some confusion in my head. OK that isn't hard to get to happen at times but still a worth while look into.

Any particular brands you have found that stand out for the good? Rockauto doesn't have Motorcraft brand U-joints or I'd just snag them.

 

[franklin2]

If it matters to you, the non-greaseable joints are usually stronger, since they are not drilled with grease passages.

 

[Bgunner]

Yea I don't think my 3.0 on road truck will have enough power or come across any obstacles to break a U-joint but I can see how the non greaseables would be stronger. Been thinking of snagging a set of the MOOG 269 joints but I'm just not sure yet.

Adding to the confusion is that MOOG's quality has suffered over the last 10+ years which adds a bit of hesitancy on purchasing there joints.

 

[Dirtman]

I buy spicer u joints. They made most of the drive line parts on the truck to begin with.

Greaseable vs non greaseable eh... never seen a difference in longevity.

 

[Bgunner]

I buy spicer u joints. They made most of the drive line parts on the truck to begin with.

Greaseable vs non greaseable eh... never seen a difference in longevity.

I did see a set of the DANA Spicer 51310X joints but haven't really heard much on there quality, till now.

 

[adsm08]

For my money, on the street truck, I'd get the greasable ones, but only if you are going to remember to grease them.

 

[Dirtman]

I did see a set of the DANA Spicer 51310X joints but haven't really heard much on there quality, till now.

Dana/spicer makes the axles on most trucks including some rangers so I feel confident they can make a u-joint. It wouldn't suprise me if the factory u-joint had a spicer part number on it.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

When I swapped to a one piece driveshaft, I went a fresh set of moog greasables. If you still have the 2 piece driveshaft, and doing the u joint yourself, be sure to mind the phasing or it will vibrate even more than usual.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Non greaseable have fewer entry points for contamination... and few people remember to grease them anyway.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Non greaseable have fewer entry points for contamination... and few people remember to grease them anyway.

Which is why I normally would get non greasable....but I like working on my ranger, and greasing her.

 

[Bgunner]

For some reason my 94 Supercab has the one piece drive shaft from the factory already so no need to convert it over. Maybe 2wd versus 4wd?

Dana Spicer 513101X Life Series (SPL); Greaseable are just shy of 6 bucks more than the non greaseable 51310X versions.

Well because it is getting harder to get under the truck I'm thinking for ease of use for me the non greasables would probably be best for my situation.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

For some reason my 94 Supercab has the one piece drive shaft from the factory already so no need to convert it over. Maybe 2wd versus 4wd?

Dana Spicer 513101X Life Series (SPL); Greaseable are just shy of 6 bucks more than the non greaseable 51310X versions.

Well because it is getting harder to get under the truck I'm thinking for ease of use for me the non greasables would probably be best for my situation.

Hm interesting...yeas maybe either transition year or engine trans combo or something, but lucky you lol. I hated my 2 piece driveshaft, and swapping was simple but PITA getting crossmember out. Anyways non greasable will be fine, especially spicers. I have also noticed moogs have gotten crappier, but mine seem to be working fine so far...my next set will be spicer for sure.

 

[sgtsandman]

It's a personal choice on greaseable vs non-greasable.

Me personally, I prefer parts I can grease and it doesn't take that much longer to hit all the points with a grease gun. But then again, I do bi-annual oil changes and preventative maintenance and my OCD tendencies may be influencing that preference.

I agree with the above comments. If you are willing and going to do the maintenance, I would go greasable. If you aren't, then non-greasable. In my mind, I would think the greasable components will last longer if kept up on but perception and reality may be two different things.

There also seems to be some merit to the non-greaseable u-joints having more strength. Not on Rangers but I have seen greaseable u-joints fail when non-greaseable ones did not.

 

[19Walt93]

It's a personal choice on greaseable vs non-greasable.

Me personally, I prefer parts I can grease and it doesn't take that much longer to hit all the points with a grease gun. But then again, I do bi-annual oil changes and preventative maintenance and my OCD tendencies may be influencing that preference.

I agree with the above comments. If you are willing and going to do the maintenance, I would go greasable. If you aren't, then non-greasable. In my mind, I would think the greasable components will last longer if kept up on but perception and reality may be two different things.

There also seems to be some merit to the non-greaseable u-joints having more strength. Not on Rangers but I have seen greaseable u-joints fail when non-greaseable ones did not.

You're being thorough and meticulous, OCD is what the slackers call it.
I also buy everything greaseable that I can. I bought u joints with the fittings in the end caps for my Mustang when I was drag racing to avoid the diagonal hole in the cross. If you have to use joints with the diagonal fitting just install them so the hole is in compression. For all out racing, non-greaseable is probably best. I want all greaseable steering and suspension parts.