Turns over , no spark

[rusty ol ranger]

I maybe fuzzy here...but i think you need to find a distributor/pickup from a 74 mustang ii or pinto. I believe it was the first year for the 2.8 and the only year they didnt run duraspark. 75 maybe too.

 

[Dalebob69]

I think that you may have sanded the rotor contacts in the cap. The distributor in your picture has a pickup coil and exciter vanes, not the old-fashion type of distributor points.

Your '83 2.8 motor looks like it has been converted from the original setup, which unfortunately makes chasing replacement parts a lot more difficult for you.

If you can get a part number or a manufacturer name from the pickup that's in your distributor, you may have a better chance of tracking down a unit which will directly replace it. This is a case where an experienced parts person behind the counter at a parts store can be a life saver; or, also having the failed part in hand can make an internet search easier.

It will take some work, but I honestly think that you can find a replacement pickup for a lot less money than the full kit price.

I think I’ll try this route. I’ll get the distributor out and see if I can find any markings brands or numbers on it and take it in somewhere. This has been a headache so far and I just need my yard truck up and running again!
I will keep you fellas posted and I really do appreciate all the guidance.

 

[AzLizard]

A new pertronix unit is approximately $130.00 from summit racing.
I was able to find a complete distributor with a powerspark (like pertronix) from BBC on ebay $170.ish for a Capri 2.8.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1346774218...sYY1qqikM0IfpaBC5Y4IG2SX4A==|tkp:BFBM_Kq_xehj

 

[RobbieD]

Kind of a tough call.

The shipping from the UK adds $30 and transit time.

Pertronix is a known name; the Powerspark looks to be UK based, likely a copy of the Pertonics, but probably OK.

I've only seen good feedback from people dealing with Summit. Between the two, how big of a pain will it be, if you have problems or need support?

Does your current distributor have any slop in the shaft? If the shaft bushings are shot then replacing the whole unit makes sense.


"If it were me", if the dizzy is good I'd lean toward just putting a new Pertronics pickup unit in, and see where that gets me.


At least you're whittling it down from the original $400 estimate; kudos your way for doing the research.

Good Luck!

 

[Dalebob69]

Update:

Tried the lesser of evils and went for a new ignition control module that sits on the drivers side of the truck. I figured a ~20$ part with a quick plug and play would be worth a shot in the dark. Upon further investigation the more colorful wires plugs are different. I’m not sure if this was done by the prior owner (splice job) or if the auto parts store gave me the incorrect part for the job. I’ve been to countless stores looking for this particular piece lol

at this point I don’t hate the idea of trying the UK unit but I’ll definitely call summit after the weekend and see what they think.

I’ll be pulling the distributor this weekend to get a better idea of what kind/brand/ #’s?? Are on it. Also talked to a dude at an auto parts store and he told me of a local classics spot that deals with these (not on 2.8s specifically) but on hot rods frequently so it’s worth a shot.

I’m extremely grateful for all the guidance thus far from the group, especially as a new member so I appreciate all the sound advice!

 

[Dalebob69]

A new pertronix unit is approximately $130.00 from summit racing.
I was able to find a complete distributor with a powerspark (like pertronix) from BBC on ebay $170.ish for a Capri 2.8.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134677421817?itmmeta=01HX25FTNVB0WDASS33YPJRYKF&hash=item1f5b665ef9:g:WkUAAOSwDTJky4Qk&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAABIFKOr2QvsZbmv30UINd8z8ai7Qs4c2DgL1yJsrs595nwfu4J3uZ/aa5Rrm/OQSsMUPQc+FCIDOIL+egpxByPKXFkxuWxYlcAsmiuO4zdz+auM/BxCMb175IFHcSFv5L3mrmZ1tR0TBUgTetT3sPxbwMnwdZ1/ZxxD3XDLQsEfpi3OUNz+G5sC2yacUy252Tobk9/nuCBGsO8TZK8T0ejMKtA43n4ALthukBI2OnVjm1sXbtiCIqYx1jQ5zte+q+bHHxhp9A0hyK2+BuMgeS6g0QCP2dKg45J+dut6tA04g3CRanuWKGOa2gwITewnNN7M4dCd85E1Vn/jNAg16eXt45Lphh0qDnjszvWTosUsYY1qqikM0IfpaBC5Y4IG2SX4A==|tkp:BFBM_Kq_xehj

I will definitely check out these two options, thanks!

 

[RobbieD]

You've got a (Ford) Duraspark unit. And it looks like somebody before you used a "flat 4" trailer connector set to splice the wiring back into the truck.

I would be sorely tempted to track down a good connector pigtail to restore that on the truck side. Then what you bought will directly plug in, and also will in the future if it needs replacing.

 

[Dalebob69]

You've got a (Ford) Duraspark unit. And it looks like somebody before you used a "flat 4" trailer connector set to splice the wiring back into the truck.

I would be sorely tempted to track down a good connector pigtail to restore that on the truck side. Then what you bought will directly plug in, and also will in the future if it needs replacing.

I was thinking that could have been the case! Thank you I will track that down in the mean time

 

[RobbieD]

This just might be what you need:

They sure are proud of it. A little goog-fu may come up with the same thing from a different supplier for only an arm, and not an arm and a leg.

 

[Dalebob69]

Update.

Distributer is pulled. Appears to be reman’d. Wires don’t look the cleanest and appear that they’ve gotten some heat at some point.

After looking at the part number it seems that this part is from a ford cortina. Could be wrong but they look identical.

I work a 24hr shift tomorrow but Tuesday I’ll be taking it to a “classic” shop to see what they think is going on with it / if they can test it.

there’s also a place 1.5 hrs away that has a stock dizzy that I could buy (price unknown) but that’s an option too. I’ll keep you all posted.

 

[RobbieD]

I have had a Duraspark module fail before, but haven't had a pickup failure. You could always try getting your new module in before buying more parts.

And, I hope that you find a good resource in that classic shop. The pool of mechanics that can work on the older stuff is sure drying up.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Pic 5 looks like wires have been repaired and heat shrink used over repair. Or maybe wires are actually broken under insulation. Take a really close look at that.

 

[Dalebob69]

Update

Cleaned the dizzy and gave it a good look over. Took it to work and gave it a cleaning.

ended up picking up a new coil for about 35$ (decent brand). Plugged it in and dropped the dizzy in to see if it would sputter and it did!

not sure if it was a combo of things but I’m just happy it has some life back. Now I’m in the process of trying to figure out how to time the damn thing but progress is progress none the less and now I have some new spare parts to help me future proof the rig.

Still laughing about the 4 trailer connector, that needs to be changed when this unit fails.

any advice on timing? I took lots of pics with it in , but made no marks other than pictures.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It'd been awhile since I timed a dizzy from scratch...
Get #1 cylinder to top dead center.
Drop in dizzy so rotor is pointing at where #1 sparkplug wire would be with cap on. In general the rotor should also be pointing at #1 cylinder.
If it was points turn distributor until points just start to open.
No points You may be able to have ignition on and turn dizzy until spark happens at #1 sparkplug. (Plug out and grounded).
That should be close enough to fire up and tune with a timing light. Most likely will be 10° before top dead center. Vacuum line off and plugged.

 

[Dalebob69]

Update

Got the ranger running at around 10 degrees but it kept dying while idling and some backfire while driving.

Adjusted the dizzy and now it’s idling faster than normal (I’m assuming it’s around 800 rpm) I’m at 990-1000 rpm and the exhaust tones aren’t as loud as it was prior. However it’s driving great!

should I try to retard the dizzy? I’m at 17 degrees which seems kind of far (and sounds a bit fast) but again other than it being more quiet on the exhaust and it idling faster the preformance is great again but i miss those exhaust rumbles.

where should it be at rpm wise at idle? I don’t want to play with the carb if it’s the dizzy that I messed up lol