Trying to Revive OEM Stereo for Playing Cassette Tapes

[CoconutMilkFrog]

Hello, I am trying to keep my oem stereo going in my 96 3.0l. One day the stereo completely stopped working aside from the clock if you pressed the button. I took it out, found a leaking capacitor on the circuit board, and replaced it. There was also a circuit board trace that was eaten away that I rebuilt with a wire. The stereo works again! Unfortunately, the cassette tape issue still remains since I got the truck. Sometimes it reads my cassette tapes, but usually it will say "no tape" and won't eject the tape. Randomly when starting the truck again, it will auto eject or the eject button will work. The audio also pops when I first start the truck if the stereo is turned on. I did not see any other leaking capacitors, but is it safe to say that all these issues stem from more bad capacitors? Should I recap the whole board? Or is something else to blame for the cassette tape function not working? Thanks!

 

[pjtoledo]

rubber drive belts & rollers deteriorated?

 

[Curious Hound]

This sounds like @Rick W 's realm. He'll have some home remedies for you.

 

[pjtoledo]

rustoleum works on radios?

 

[Curious Hound]

rustoleum works on radios?

No. But Rick takes those things apart and swaps parts and pieces and sometimes makes them work.

 

[pjtoledo]

ah, I see. so he probably uses Glyptal on the new-to-him electrical components?

 

[RobbieD]

Or is something else to blame for the cassette tape function not working?

Look around on the inside of the unit, for a microswitch that gets thrown by the mechanism when a tape is put in. The tape issue could possibly be just a dirty microswitch.

 

[Rick W]

This sounds like @Rick W 's realm. He'll have some home remedies for you.

I appreciate the vote of confidence, but I believe it’s misplaced on this item. I don’t know much about the electronics. If I have a couple of the same radio, sometimes I could put the parts together and make one good one. If my time is worth five dollars an hour, the Chinese fire drill I pulled on the radio in the Missing Linc could’ve paid for two or three new ones, but I do like what I ended up with

The knobs (volume and balance and such) generally run some kind of reostat. If you get a good contact cleaner with a straw, there’s usually a couple of holes in the body of that reostat. You don’t have to spray much in there, literally just a drop or two, but then quickly cycle the knob back-and-forth quickly for a couple of minutes. You might have to do that a couple times, but it usually cleans off the contacts and it will remove a lot of the static and popping when you turn the knobs.

I’m not sure what you’re trying to accomplish, but my luck has come from 10 searches a day on craigslist and marketplace to find a good used unit at a reasonable price.

 

[4x4junkie]

My $$$ is on the rubber drive belt(s). They lose tension with age and begin to slip on the motor pulley(s).
Occasionally there's also rubber "tires" (idler wheels) in there that harden and crack with age that lose their friction ("traction") as well.

Belts can be replaced, but idler wheels might be a tougher call to replace if it ends up being that.

 

[Rick W]

rustoleum works on radios?

If you can get the radio working right, I highly recommend swapping out the lightbulbs that light up the face and swapping them to some LEDs. I put green LEDs in my gauge cluster, and behind the HVAC panel, and in the radio, and it’s like having a new dashboard. The lights are brighter so easier for an old fart like me to see them, but the dimmer won’t dim them. It’s my understanding you’d have to be careful with the dimmer because if you try to dim them, you could just burn them out.

Of course, once I get them working right, a little rustoleum here and there is the icing on the cake.

 

[CoconutMilkFrog]

I don’t know if this helps but finally got picture of the inside. No broken gears and the belt seems okay?

 

[CoconutMilkFrog]

I appreciate the vote of confidence, but I believe it’s misplaced on this item. I don’t know much about the electronics. If I have a couple of the same radio, sometimes I could put the parts together and make one good one. If my time is worth five dollars an hour, the Chinese fire drill I pulled on the radio in the Missing Linc could’ve paid for two or three new ones, but I do like what I ended up with

The knobs (volume and balance and such) generally run some kind of reostat. If you get a good contact cleaner with a straw, there’s usually a couple of holes in the body of that reostat. You don’t have to spray much in there, literally just a drop or two, but then quickly cycle the knob back-and-forth quickly for a couple of minutes. You might have to do that a couple times, but it usually cleans off the contacts and it will remove a lot of the static and popping when you turn the knobs.

I’m not sure what you’re trying to accomplish, but my luck has come from 10 searches a day on craigslist and marketplace to find a good used unit at a reasonable price.

Could this be what’s needs cleaning? Seems to be a pressure switch

 

[CoconutMilkFrog]

View attachment 140297
Could this be what’s needs cleaning? Seems to be a pressure switch

Found another

 

[pentode]

I don't know that particular mechanism but that looks like a likely candidate. If the cassette mechanism didn't get used much it may just be light corrosion and may come back to life just by operating it manually a couple dozen times. If you happen to have any contact cleaner such as deoxit or similar, that wouldn't be the worst idea. Just don't get it on the belts or capstan or rollers.

The belt isn't gummy? It's still supple and a bit stretchy? Capstan rollers, if you can reach them, they should have a bit of give if you poke them with your thumbnail. The fact that the belt is still there is a good sign - the bad ones just turn back to crude petroleum.

 

[CoconutMilkFrog]

I don't know that particular mechanism but that looks like a likely candidate. If the cassette mechanism didn't get used much it may just be light corrosion and may come back to life just by operating it manually a couple dozen times. If you happen to have any contact cleaner such as deoxit or similar, that wouldn't be the worst idea. Just don't get it on the belts or capstan or rollers.

The belt isn't gummy? It's still supple and a bit stretchy? Capstan rollers, if you can reach them, they should have a bit of give if you poke them with your thumbnail. The fact that the belt is still there is a good sign - the bad ones just turn back to crude petroleum.

I used some contact cleaner on the two switches and pressed them in 20 times maybe. The belt seems to still have elasticity. Rollers seem okay too. Reassembled and seems to be working now