Truck Painting.

[koda6966]

No this is not a build thread, and no, this won't get done anytime soon.
Its a planning stage thread.
I was thinking of painting my truck, since it has many scratches, paint chips, surface rust spots, and paint rub-off from my mothers van's door..

Anyway, I was thinking about taking each panel off one by one, like the fenders, doors, bed, hood, etc, and painting them one by one in a sealed room (with a fan of course) to prevent insects/debris from getting into the paint. But I don't have a sprayer nor do I think that spraying it would be easy so I may or may not invest in one. Another problem, would be I would want this done cheaply. Meaning cheaper paint. I found a website that talked about roller paint jobs, and it sounded pretty decent. Here's a link to the site. What do you think? Would it last?

 

[flyingbrick]

My Buddy did his Festiva like that took almost 3 months and it looks a pro job the key is prep, and wet sanding after that you wax the living hell out of it, I'll ask him for pic's when i see him next and post them up.

 

[koda6966]

Thank you, I'll take any help I can get.

 

[rockin86ranger]

you'll have to make sure nothing changes in your mixture at all or you can get mixed match shades. but i have heard good reviews about thoose roll on paint jobs if done right.

 

[jamleafer]

I picked up a gallon of Limco 2 single stage paint, metallic silver, for like 100 bucks cdn. dunno if limco is available in the states if thats where you are but something like that would be good if your looking for cheap, theres no really cheap paint job unless you dont really care , far as takin the panels off to do it, it seems like a good idea if you dont mind dissasembling and reassembling , the roller paint jobs arent too bad i dont think as long as theyre done right, you gotta wet sand em if u want any high gloss i think, not sure but i thought i read it somewhere hope this helps good luck

 

[koda6966]

you'll have to make sure nothing changes in your mixture at all or you can get mixed match shades. but i have heard good reviews about thoose roll on paint jobs if done right.

I've thought about that too, so I would probably go with black. That way I don't have to worry about mixing paints for colors nor do I have to worry about it changing when I thin it out since I would use a measuring cup.

 

[Boggin]

Do It.
A friend of mine has an old F-150 that his dad bought for plowing snow, and it was yellow full of rust and paint peeling and everything, and he painted it black with a roller and it turned out great, Ill get some pics for you if i can

 

[rockin86ranger]

I've thought about that too, so I would probably go with black. That way I don't have to worry about mixing paints for colors nor do I have to worry about it changing when I thin it out since I would use a measuring cup.

Black is alright but remember black shows anything that isn't perfect something looks minor in your red will look like a giant dent or riple in black. but it is the best to do as long as you get the clear mixture really really close on all panels. Because you dealing with individual panels any slight change in clear can make the panels different shades, and it will be noticeable. i'd just do a roller paint job their cheap pretty easy and look good. and you don't gotta worry about a whole lot. i'll look for my article about roller jobs i know i've seen one on a vw forum but i'll see if i can track it down.

 

[raiper]

ok ok cheap effiecient and looks good paint job, eh?

Go to some hardware store or something that you know sells paint guns(automotive use).

Get the cheapest one there but MAKE SURE its a HVLP and has a fluid tip size of atleast 1.4 here in cali they are like 50 bucks.

Get 1 Gallon of Single stage paint in your color. Plain colors i.e black, white, blue are the cheapest. should run you 100 bucks.

Make sure you get the hardner or activator for it as well.

sand down the panels you plan on painting with 320 GRIT sandpaper (if you dont sand the paint will flake off and peel later...no stick)

clean them off, mix the paint and hardner, and spray the panels either one by one or all at once. you have to put that stuff on thick(dont let it run) and it will look orange peel when it lays down but when it starts to dry it will smooth out and flatten. wait 10 to 15 minutes then lay down one more coat evenly and all. Cover up any dry spots as well. Let it dry for atleast 1 day and there you go. Wear a resperator btw

 

[Danger06Ranger]

I painted a replacement fender the other day, my old Sears gun broke so I needed a new one. I picked one up at Advance for around $30. Just my $.02

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

I just finished a "base coat" so to speak on my '95. I prepped and painted it in sections. I used a Devilbiss "knock-off" HVLP gun and a Porter-Cable Pancake compressor to paint it in my garage. I did the bed, then the jambs and under hood, then the front clip, and finally the cab. My first coat had some runs, but I hit up my paint shop and they helped me set my gun up properly - the finishes got better as I went. I only have to put on a single overall coat on the truck to be complete. I used Omni AU Single Stage White, this paint comes out glossy without the need for a clear coat. And it is not that expensive - I am into this job for around $500 including all primer, paint, tape, mask paper, sand paper, thinners, activators, hardeners, etc . . .

Bed and Clip Painted

Completed Base Coat

I have learned alot and will be better prepared when and if I ever do another. Like mentioned earlier: PREPARATION is the number one key to a good job.

 

[ZMan]

panel painting is a bad idea, it won't all be exactly the same and you'll notice a color difference between the panels.

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

panel painting is a bad idea, it won't all be exactly the same and you'll notice a color difference between the panels.

In my case that is why this is a "base coat" and I am doing an overall coat all at one time. I cannot afford to do everything all at once so it is one section at a time. Yes it can lead to differences between the panels, but how do body shops repair a fender - paint the whole car? My wifes car had the front end fixed and repainted and there is absolutely no difference and it is a factory metal flake paint - the shop did an awesome job not to mention the service manager ensuring it was the best it could be.

 

[85general]

honestly i wouldnt go for that roll on garbage ya if you take time to perfect it like that guy did itll look good but i wouldnt do it or advise anyone to do it. just spray it like yur supposed to iv painted three of my own trucks an idk how many not mine, wet sand wet sand wet sand though,an painting panels is just fine as long as you mix it the same. you want cheap paint go dupli-color paint shop not realllllllly nice looking but holds up ok i got it on my wheelin ranger easy to patch its cheap

 

[ZMan]

In my case that is why this is a "base coat" and I am doing an overall coat all at one time. I cannot afford to do everything all at once so it is one section at a time. Yes it can lead to differences between the panels, but how do body shops repair a fender - paint the whole car? My wifes car had the front end fixed and repainted and there is absolutely no difference and it is a factory metal flake paint - the shop did an awesome job not to mention the service manager ensuring it was the best it could be.

I'm a BASF certified Painter. We blend the paint, meaning the entire panel doesn't get painted, the color gets feathered out, thats why it "matches". Theres really don't such thing as a perfect match unfortunately, thats why blending exists.

If you can't afford to paint the entire thing at once, all I can say is stop rushing it and just save your money.

Also, did you just put the base, and not the clear on your truck? You have to put the clear on within 24 hours of spraying the base, after that its too dry you'll need to scuff up the basecoat and respray it. If you don't, you're clear won't stay on the truck very long.