Truck cranks but does not start after stall

[Woodchip01]

Hello all,
I am a new truck owner as I have just purchased a 5-speed, 4x4 1996 Mazda B3000 (3.0L V6) with about 150,000 miles on it. I've been running into an issue where if I stall out, even after fully turning the truck off and on and letting the fuel pump prime the system, the truck will not start. Normally it cranks, but sometimes it won't even crank. This is only happens after stalling.

I have confirmed that it has spark and the spark plugs are new and good. It has good fuel pressure and I can smell that gas is getting to the engine (it has a leaky exhaust). It has a brand new fuel pump and fuel filter. The fuel tank was drained and has new gas in it. I added a bit of LucasOil fuel line cleaner to the tank. The IAC has been cleaned as well as the throttle plate. Sometimes if I floor the accelerator while cranking the truck sounds like it wants to start but won't. If I let it sit for about a day it normally starts after a couple of cranks.

OBD gives me two codes, an EVAP code and an EGR code.
Air flow sensor reads air flow and seems fine.
The FPR vacuum line was disconnected and plugged when I got the truck, but the line holds vacuum as well as the FPR itself. No difference is noticeable with it connected or not.
Battery was tested and is good and charged.

Truck also feels very easy to stall, I need to give it quite a bit of gas no matter how slow I let out the clutch or it will stall. Not sure if this is an older truck thing or something else. Any and all advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

Lars

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Sounds like its running pig rich.

When you floor the pedal while cranking it actually puts it in "flooded start" mode and kills the injectors.

The FPR could still be blown. Id check the fuel pressure on it. Im not sure what the specs are for a 3.0. I know on a 2.9 its 40psi. I think the 3.0 is higher but one of the 3.0 guys will have to chime in on that

 

[Woodchip01]

Sounds like its running pig rich.

When you floor the pedal while cranking it actually puts it in "flooded start" mode and kills the injectors.

The FPR could still be blown. Id check the fuel pressure on it. Im not sure what the specs are for a 3.0. I know on a 2.9 its 40psi. I think the 3.0 is higher but one of the 3.0 guys will have to chime in on that

Fuel pressure last I checked was good around 40 psi which I believe is in spec for the 3.0 as well. Checked the fuel trim settings and both long and short fuel trims are reasonable, about 1-5% at idle with a warm engine. Thinking I should replace the O2 sensors??

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Fuel pressure last I checked was good around 40 psi which I believe is in spec for the 3.0 as well. Checked the fuel trim settings and both long and short fuel trims are reasonable, about 1-5% at idle with a warm engine. Thinking I should replace the O2 sensors??

That stuff is above my paygrade. Someone better with that stuff should be along

 

[Ranger Jimmy]

I always start with having the battery and alternator tested.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I always start with having the battery and alternator tested.

If its cranking but not firing chances are that stuff is fine

 

[Woodchip01]

I always start with having the battery and alternator tested.

If its cranking but not firing chances are that stuff is fine

I am going to check my alternator with my multimeter, but I had to order some 9v batteries as it was dead. I also ordered some new clamps for the battery terminals. The current ones I can twist, so I wonder if its not getting sufficient amperage to consistently run the starter.
We will see tomorrow how things shape up.

 

[2011Supercab]

Thinking I should replace the O2 sensors??

Not a bad idea on an older truck, But they won't cause a crank and no start.