Truck Cap Brake Light

[bruker]

I just picked up an aluminum cap for my Ranger and I'd like to put a third brake light on it. What's the best way to get brake light power to the light? Tap into one of the rear brake lights, tap into the existing third brake light or is ther another way?

 

[johnday]

So this cap doesn't have a brakelight on it? How old is it? I thought around 1994 +or- they all came with them.
Anyway, if you have a trailer electrical connector on your truck, just tap into that. You could tap into one the brakelights, but I've heard of some sort of problem with the cruise control could show up. That's just what I've heard, never seen it proven.
How ever you do it, you'll have to run a ground as well from the light.

 

[a31ford]

FWIF, IF, you have separate turn and brake, then the brake light tap will be fine, Most of the newer trailer harnesses have the 3rd light in them as well.

If you have only a combo brake/turn at the back of the box, then you will have to grab the 3rd's power from the light on the cab.

I will also say, that with all the junk electronics they put in the newer vehicles, anything can happen.....

Greg

 

[oldcrowalki]

Testing for my first post--sorry.

 

[oldcrowalki]

I'm old and lazy. I have the combo brake/turn wiring in my 2006 Ranger. I got a 4-way plug with 8'+ wiring and plugged to the hitch plug. Ran the wiring along the frame and up the inside of the bed to top of the bed rail. Got another 4-way plug set and wired at the top of the bed rail inside the camper shell. Bought a logic box from truck outfitters plus off the net for $22 (not affiliated-just a customer). It's a small box the size of a match box with 2 wires on one end and 1 wire on the other. You hook the 2 brake/turn wires to the 2 wire end, and run the other wire to the 3rd brake light. Without the box, the 3rd brake light will blink whenever the turn signal is on. Hooked the parking light wire on the 4-way to the interior light of the camper shell (light will only work when the parking lights are on). Took all the wiring hook-ups in the camper shell and put it behind the plastic under-the-rail drop in bedliner out of harm's way. This way I can disconnect at the camper shell and pull the shell off with no rewiring. Can also disconnect at the hitch plug and pull the bed with no rewiring. Don't have a hitch, but if I ever got one, could disconnect at the hitch plug and hook up trailer lights--wouldn't have the 3rd brake light, but with the trailer lights and all, don't think I'd need it. This also kept me from hacking in to the rear light's wiring--so it remains stock. Some guys run a wire from the third brake light on the cab, and others run a wire from inside the cab--but like I said, I'm old and lazy.

 

[kunar]

I'm old and lazy. I have the combo brake/turn wiring in my 2006 Ranger. I got a 4-way plug with 8'+ wiring and plugged to the hitch plug. Ran the wiring along the frame and up the inside of the bed to top of the bed rail. Got another 4-way plug set and wired at the top of the bed rail inside the camper shell. Bought a logic box from truck outfitters plus off the net for $22 (not affiliated-just a customer). It's a small box the size of a match box with 2 wires on one end and 1 wire on the other. You hook the 2 brake/turn wires to the 2 wire end, and run the other wire to the 3rd brake light. Without the box, the 3rd brake light will blink whenever the turn signal is on. Hooked the parking light wire on the 4-way to the interior light of the camper shell (light will only work when the parking lights are on). Took all the wiring hook-ups in the camper shell and put it behind the plastic under-the-rail drop in bedliner out of harm's way. This way I can disconnect at the camper shell and pull the shell off with no rewiring. Can also disconnect at the hitch plug and pull the bed with no rewiring. Don't have a hitch, but if I ever got one, could disconnect at the hitch plug and hook up trailer lights--wouldn't have the 3rd brake light, but with the trailer lights and all, don't think I'd need it. This also kept me from hacking in to the rear light's wiring--so it remains stock. Some guys run a wire from the third brake light on the cab, and others run a wire from inside the cab--but like I said, I'm old and lazy.

this is exactly how i would do it as well. only change i would make is i would buy one of those trailer hitch brake light inserts from wally world or similar instead of ordering the relay box like you did. you just gotta look at it carefully before you buy it, some only grab power from one brake light, some have a relay box with them and take power from both sides. i think the last one i bought was ~$12. use the wiring and electronics, toss the light housing.

to me, this idea makes too much sense. you keep your trailer wiring plugged in so it stays sealed and isnt gonna corrode from being open to the weather. its easy to unplug if you need to pull the cap or the bed. add to that the fact that it doesnt require any cutting or splicing of wiring on the truck. if youre pulling a trailer, just unplug your light and plug in the trailer, no real need for a 3rd brake light if your trailer has lights as well...

 

[bruker]

I've read in some other threads that there could be a brake light wire left hanging under the fuse box. Any idea as to what years they did this?

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Being a professional accessory installer I know... Leer, Century, and ARE all say if there is no "brake only" wire in the rear of the truck, it should be ran to the original 3rd brake lamp or the pedal switch.

If you pull the 3rd brake lamp out you can find the wire color, then tap into it in the drivers side door sill.

Otherwise, find out which of the 2 wires at the switch is only powered with the pedal depressed.

A 3M Scotch-lock connector will be perfect, as it is an interior connection inside the cab.

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