Tri-Y's and an AOD?

[5.0]

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Has anybody used tri-y's on a 302 with an AOD?

Word on the street is that the tri-y's are too narrow and interfere with the bell housing. I'm wondering what needs done/modified to make them work?

I really don't want to use 89500's if I can get some tri-y's to work.


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[85_Ranger4x4]

They interfere in the area where the starter is. I had a set, I didn't like how they fit around that that at all and they plain won't work on a 4x4 (non issue on your 2wd I know) so I sent them back. They were the Patriot ones from Summit, great looking header.

That is a 164t seperator plate:

Here is a thread with some different header options, I think I am going to give the 88400's a whirl if everything looks good when I get the engine set in there.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95640&highlight=header

 

[5.0]

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Thanks for the info and link. I'm not even going to try the tri-y's, it looks like too much work.

How much did it cost for return shipping and restocking fee to return the headers to Summit?

I may try the 89400's, but only if I can do it without chopping the frame. I wonder what they look like (the clearances) with the exhaust pipe on them?

I used 89500's on my last swap and everything went perfect. I chopped the collector off right where the 4 primary pipes come together and welded a 3 bolt, 3/8" thick flange to the header. Then I used a tight 90* elbow from summit, with a flange welded on it also. The other end of the elbow had a flange on it that bolted to the exhaust pipe. I wanted it this way so I could just remove the elbow to replace a starter if needed, and it was the way to gain the most clearance for the i-beam, which wasn't even close to hitting.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I think it was like $15-20ish for freight. It was within 90 days so there wasn't a restocking fee.

Comparing the 88400's with the similar Patriot shorties in that link, it looks like frame mods might hinge on the mounts. Totalled used fox/convert mounts, the engine is mounted higher on the crossmember and headers are above the frame. Wade used V6 mounts with a plate, the engine is mounted a lot lower and required a lot of cutting to clear the frame.

I am going to wait and see how things look after I get the engine in, if I like what I see I am going to go with 88400's... if I don't I have a set of 289 manifolds that will fit and work fine.

 

[baddad457]

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Thanks for the info and link. I'm not even going to try the tri-y's, it looks like too much work.

How much did it cost for return shipping and restocking fee to return the headers to Summit?

I may try the 89400's, but only if I can do it without chopping the frame. I wonder what they look like (the clearances) with the exhaust pipe on them?

I used 89500's on my last swap and everything went perfect. I chopped the collector off right where the 4 primary pipes come together and welded a 3 bolt, 3/8" thick flange to the header. Then I used a tight 90* elbow from summit, with a flange welded on it also. The other end of the elbow had a flange on it that bolted to the exhaust pipe. I wanted it this way so I could just remove the elbow to replace a starter if needed, and it was the way to gain the most clearance for the i-beam, which wasn't even close to hitting.

If you handled the mods to the 89500's, then fitting Tri-Y's shouldn't be a problem for you. The 88400 right side collector is just above the starter, the left side is the same part as the left side 89500.

 

[fordmike1]

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Has anybody used tri-y's on a 302 with an AOD?

Word on the street is that the tri-y's are too narrow and interfere with the bell housing. I'm wondering what needs done/modified to make them work?

I really don't want to use 89500's if I can get some tri-y's to work.


.

I have the Patriot tri-y's in my ranger with a 4R70W which is basicly the same trans as an AOD. I cut the collectors and straightend them out to fit and they work great now. It was a very easy thing to do.

 

[5.0]

Hmmm, if it's as simple as a bend or cut and twist of the collector, the tri-y's would be what I want to use. Maybe they'll send me the ones 85_Ranger4x4 returned lol.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Hmmm, if it's as simple as a bend or cut and twist of the collector, the tri-y's would be what I want to use. Maybe they'll send me the ones 85_Ranger4x4 returned lol.

If they have Sharpie pen marker where the bolts smeared the paint a little on the outside two bolts, thats them.

 

[5.0]

haha, I'll watch for em

 

[jfl1960]

I have the Patriot tri-y's in my ranger with a 4R70W which is basicly the same trans as an AOD. I cut the collectors and straightend them out to fit and they work great now. It was a very easy thing to do.

would love to see a pic of that setup, am in middle of header install myself and trying to decide if I should buy or build my own.

 

[superdave1984]

I cut a pie slice out of the collector tube as close to the small tubes as possible, bent it and had it welded. cost $20 because I don't have a welder.

 

[jfl1960]

I cut a pie slice out of the collector tube as close to the small tubes as possible, bent it and had it welded. cost $20 because I don't have a welder.

could you post a pic of your mod please.

 

[ATX]

Bump to a old thread . Anyone use a set of tri's lately on their swap . Really thinking I'm going to get a set a mod them to fit . It's on a 94 2wd xcab


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[84tony]

I put an AOD in a 65 Mustang with Tri-y's, had to heat and bend where the two down pies enter the collector pipe. Used a pipe inserted into the collector to bend the pipe out enough to clear the AOD. Had to do that to both headers. I was still very close at the starter, I had to cut down the stud on the starter where the battery cable connects to make it clear the header and not ground out.

 

[ATX]

Thanks for the info. I have a rose bud torch tip that we use up here at the shop just for that . I figured it would be just doing some heating and bending for the most part . What size are the collectors by chance on average . ?


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