Transmission help

[Regcarl]

I have a 2010 ranger xlt 4x4 that I am getting ready to replace the transmission in with one I got from the local pick and pull. Just wondering if while it's out there was anything I should replace on the new one before I put it in the truck. Never done this before but it seems like getting the old one out should be the train for getting the new one in. Thank you for any help or knowledge of mistakes made that I need to watch out for.

 

[pjtoledo]

pan gasket and filter.
flush cooling lines.

now would also be a good time for the rear crank seal.

 

[RonD]

When a transmission is removed or engine is pulled out, yes the rear crank shaft main seal is an inexpensive part to replace and a HARD to get to part if its starts to leak

New torque converter is recommended

You can only use a 2001 to 2011 5R55E from another 4x4 for this swap

If you haven't swapped in or installed an automatic trans before there is one BIG THING you must remember to do

SEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER INSIDE THE BELLHOUSING FIRST!

With transmission ready to go in, put torque converter in to bellhousing on to input shaft
Rotate torque converter while pushing in
It will slide in when splines on input shaft align and THEN keep turning and it will side in more when pump slots/tabs align
Then turn it a few more times to make sure its all the way in
Should be touching back of bellhousing or very close to

Then you can mate transmission to engine, it should slide on flush, you should NEVER EVER have to force trans and engine together, something is wrong, STOP and find out what is wrong

Once engine and trans are together you slide torque converter forward to bolt it to Flexplate

Short video of seating torque converter

If you don't do this you WILL ruin the transmission, ask me how I know, lol, I ruined my Fresh Rebuilt trans on my first automatic install

 

[Dirtman]

Assuming it's a 4.0 it would also be prudent to carefully inspect the rear timing chain and guides as well while the transmission is out.

 

[Regcarl]

Thank you for your knowledge and I hope it makes you feel better to know that we both learned from your first Trans install (Ron D) and yes it is a 4.0 engine would like to hear more about rear timing chain and guides, was under the impression that all that was up front. I'm handy mechanically inclined which means I can usually figure out how things work or should work but as far as autos all I've ever really done was just remove and replace simple bolt on parts so I really appreciate all the help anyone has to offer have watched a few u tube videos and I think I can getter done and yes the donor Trans is from a 2010 ranger sport 4x4. Thank you Regcarl

 

[Dirtman]

The 4.0 SOHC has one timing chain on the front driving one cam, and a second timing chain on the rear driving the other cam. Early on they had issues with bad chain tensioners that caused guide failures. By 2010 this issue was solved but since the only way to inspect or replace the rear side timing components is with the transmission removed, it's worth giving a good inspection before putting it back together. You'd kick yourself if you had to replace a guide or chain 20,000 miles down the road and need to remove the transmission AGAIN.

 

[Regcarl]

Thank you if you wouldn't have said anything I wouldn't have known till there was an issue which usually means too late

 

[adsm08]

I would also replace the torque converter's seal in the front pump. Another cheap part that is hard to access once it's all put together, but that will be out in the open now.

One peculiarity of the 5R transmissions when seating the torque converter, that gets a lot of people worked up. When the converter has fully seated into the pump, it will make a very unsettling noise as you turn it. This is the back side of the converter rubbing on the heads of the bolts that hold the pump in. This is a good thing and a sure sign you have it seated far enough. Once everything is put together and the converter nuts are tightened the converter is drawn out just a bit and will no longer rub.

Also, once you get the trans up to the engine and at least 2 bolts that are opposite each other tightened just enough that the trans case is touching the engine block grab a converter stud and make sure you can rock it back and forth in it's hole. This is another good test to make sure you seated it properly. If the stud can rock back and forth freely you are good. If not, take the trans back out and try again.

 

[adsm08]

The 4.0 SOHC has one timing chain on the front driving one cam, and a second timing chain on the rear driving the other cam. Early on they had issues with bad chain tensioners that caused guide failures. By 2010 this issue was solved but since the only way to inspect or replace the rear side timing components is with the transmission removed, it's worth giving a good inspection before putting it back together. You'd kick yourself if you had to replace a guide or chain 20,000 miles down the road and need to remove the transmission AGAIN.

Thank you if you wouldn't have said anything I wouldn't have known till there was an issue which usually means too late

The best defense against this issue is replacing the chain tensioners every 100K miles. They are a lot easier to get at than the chain guides. I just put a pair in my Explorer, OEM parts were about $70 (my price). Well worth it to prevent the kind of catastrophe these things cause when they go.

 

[Regcarl]

Got the transfer case removed,both driveshafts out and found speckled rust on the end of the shaft that goes into transmission from the transfer case, is this something that I should worry about or need to deal with. I'm in Myrtle Beach and it was a police truck for the first 140000 miles,and I have put on about 7000. Thank you

 

[MikeG]

Scrub it off with steel wool, or a scotch-brite pad, or a wire brush, and reassemble. The shaft is pretty hard steel and about the last thing on the truck that will rust through. I would, howeve, inspect everything around it to make sure something more delicate isn't about to rust through.

 

[adsm08]

Got the transfer case removed,both driveshafts out and found speckled rust on the end of the shaft that goes into transmission from the transfer case, is this something that I should worry about or need to deal with. I'm in Myrtle Beach and it was a police truck for the first 140000 miles,and I have put on about 7000. Thank you

Scrub it off with steel wool, or a scotch-brite pad, or a wire brush, and reassemble. The shaft is pretty hard steel and about the last thing on the truck that will rust through. I would, howeve, inspect everything around it to make sure something more delicate isn't about to rust through.

Agreed, rust on that shaft is not something to worry about, especially surface rust. Paint a bit of grease on it so they don't get stuck together in the future, and forget it.

 

[Regcarl]

Got cats off,starter,removed nuts on the flywheel (left a socked in there in the process but it should fall out when I free up the trany) and 4 of the 6 bolts on the bell housing. If this was a girlfriend and not my truck I fell we would have already parted ways. Had to remove the drivers side header to get to the studs for the cat and literally destroy them with a air Hanmer to get them off sure there was a easier way but I'm pretty much in the driveway with basic hand tools. Been 4 days to get to the actual removal of transmission thanks for all your help should have it on road in a few more days of cursing and bleeding. Not sure why but seems like every edge on this truck has been sharpened by some sadistic madman. Thanks all

 

[Regcarl]

Well I'm back. Got transmission installed had to remove drivers side header because I couldn't get cat off of that side, its the one with the EGR tube and broke EGR pressure sensor got new one and replaced it drove it probably 15 miles without it. It doesn't seem to have any power will cut off when I make a turn and I hear what sounds like a series of backfires when I accelerate. Went to auto zone and hooked it up to scanner it came back with 2 codes,P174(system too lean bank 2),P405 (exist Gass recirculation sensor A circuit low)and it repeated the same 2 codes. I hooked up a different new EGR pressure sensor no change,I then checked EGR tube and it was cold after driving about 10 miles,I then checked to make sure I had vacume at EGR solenoid and it seemed good,I the replaced the EGR solenoid no help. I'm sure it is something that I did in the process of replacing the transmission which seems to be working fine. When we turned the motor over to remove then reinstall the torque converter nuts we just removed the drivers side spark plugs and yes I did reinstall them. HELP and Thanks
PS I also ran straight vacume to EGR valve and it seems to be able to open and close.