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Not sure if the wiring plugs are the same, but a 1354e will bolt up in place of a 1350e. In theory the wiring plugs will be the same so it would be plug and play, but I can neither confirm or deny this.Alright guys, I'm piggy backing off an old thread here, but I wanted to try to confirm some transfer case compatibility.
My plan is to swap out the axles, driveshafts, and transfer case from my BII and replace them with the slightly stronger versions from Rangers/Explorers.
My current transfer case is an electric 1350 from my current truck, an 89 BII 4 speed with OD. The transfer case I'd like to swap in is electric and from a 1997 Explorer automatic. From what it seems, the new transfer case should be a bolt on to the BII. Am I correct in thinking this?
Side note, I'm going with the 1354e as a place holder; 1354 manuals are hard to find where I live, and usually expensive if not found in a junkyard. So the 1354e would be there until I can find a manual.
Not sure if the wiring plugs are the same, but a 1354e will bolt up in place of a 1350e. In theory the wiring plugs will be the same so it would be plug and play, but I can neither confirm or deny this.
I'd keep your factory driveshafts unless you need to change length. Disk brake Explorer rear axles are highly desirable, but if I remember correctly you have to change the master cylinder or add a proportioning valve to use it. Drum brake 8.8" rears are stronger than the factory 7.5" in your BII and one out of a Ranger may bolt in. Explorer axles you'll need to weld new spring perches on. Front axle, you'll want a TTB D-35, but watch out for the hybrid D-28/35 axles (D-35 beams and outers, but D-28 guts). You can identify them by the smooth cast aluminum pumpkin. A true D-35 will have a ribbed pumpkin. Also, if your BII has a lift kit that uses a big spacer plate to lower the axle pivot for the passenger side beam, you need to either modify it or change it or you risk punching a hole in the pumpkin of the D-35.
1350E and 1354E are nearly identical other than the front output, the 1350 has a slip spline in the T case (as well as a small internal U joint in there...), the 1354 is flange output. As long as you have an M5OD or an A4LD transmission you won't have to screw with the front driveshaft as both setups are the same length, just use the front shaft from the 1354...
I'm running a stock master cylinder in my Ranger with a disc brake 8.8 and the brakes work amazingly... have all sorts of control, way better than anything else I have...