tranny removal guidence

[SalvagedB3000]

Hey guys, I bought my buddies late 94 b3000 rwd with a 5 spd tranny. I started taking out a few of the bolts when I got lazy and stopped. Haha

I need a few tips
1)do you guys recomend taking off part of the exhaust? The guy that did the previous clutch tightened the 2 side botls really tight, the ones near the downpipes

2) I was looking at the clutch hydraulics. Is there a special Ford tool to dissconnect the line going to the master cyl, or an I supposed to get the tranny off first, lower it slightly, and then unbolt it from the bellhousing?


I will checkout what All Data says tomorrow. Im hoping some of you gurus have some tips. Iv done plenty of clutchjobs, but mostly on japanese, and some european cars.

 

[brendank]

The y-pipe needs to come off in order for the bellhousing to clear. Even if you can get the transmission out without removing the exhaust, you'll certainly want it removed when you're re-installing.

The only tool I've ever seen is the garbage plastic "fork" type that comes with new slave cylinders. It probably worked marginally at best when the truck was brand new, let alone 15 years later. I've found that it's easiest to use two standard screw drivers, and slowly pry the white plastic piece on the quick disconnect inwards. Once you have it far enough in, the two lines will separate.

Hope that helps.

 

[mccrob]

I just took a tranny out of a 93 ranger and really wish I had taken the y-pipe off first,I had to take it off to get the tranny out but did'nt till the tranny was half out and jammed against the pipe,there's not much room to work with so defiantly take it off first

 

[MAKG]

You can buy a steel clutch line release tool from Performance Tool (or somesuch) for something like $5.

 

[SalvagedB3000]

The y-pipe needs to come off in order for the bellhousing to clear. Even if you can get the transmission out without removing the exhaust, you'll certainly want it removed when you're re-installing.

The only tool I've ever seen is the garbage plastic "fork" type that comes with new slave cylinders. It probably worked marginally at best when the truck was brand new, let alone 15 years later. I've found that it's easiest to use two standard screw drivers, and slowly pry the white plastic piece on the quick disconnect inwards. Once you have it far enough in, the two lines will separate.

Hope that helps.

I gotta check the price on a new slave cyl. Do you guys recomend changing the slave cyl since its inside the bellhousings? Thanks guys

 

[metalmacguyver]

Yes absolutely. Because of how much work is involved, the preventative maintenance is always worth not having to pull the tranny again.

 

[preflight]

my 93 I kept the pipe on if its a 4 cyl you can do that but if its a 6 cyl then it has to go

 

[SalvagedB3000]

is this the tool http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_... Tools&psid=YAHOOSSP01&sid=ISx20070515x00001c ? I was under the impression it was like the Fuel dissconnect tool GM uses.
I was looking at the connection, and it looks like it has a roll pin on the master cyl side. I dont see those slots for the Ford Tool to go in.

Here is a little update and progress

1)FLuid drained. half a quart came out, no chunks. My friend said his tranny stopped on him and a bunch of fluid came gushing out. I'll open it when its out
2)1 electrical connector+ speedo dissconnected. Are there anymore electrical connections? I'll double check tomorrow
3) exhaust downpipes and cat dissconnected.
4) Starter and tranny bolts taken out. The top driver side bolt still needs to come out. I was too lazy to refill my air compressor. But I was using a long 1/2" extension swivel joint, 15mm, and impact. Compressor was to low on juice. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the help.

 

[metalmacguyver]

refill your air compressor?

 

[SalvagedB3000]

I was too lazy to roll it back to my garage so I could turn on the motor again. I dont have an extension long and thick enough for the compressor.

So is the tool in the link i posted the correct one? My master cyl doesnt look like it has those grooves for the tool to insert

 

[brendank]

is this the tool http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_... Tools&psid=YAHOOSSP01&sid=ISx20070515x00001c ? I was under the impression it was like the Fuel dissconnect tool GM uses.
I was looking at the connection, and it looks like it has a roll pin on the master cyl side. I dont see those slots for the Ford Tool to go in.

Here is a little update and progress

1)FLuid drained. half a quart came out, no chunks. My friend said his tranny stopped on him and a bunch of fluid came gushing out. I'll open it when its out
2)1 electrical connector+ speedo dissconnected. Are there anymore electrical connections? I'll double check tomorrow
3) exhaust downpipes and cat dissconnected.
4) Starter and tranny bolts taken out. The top driver side bolt still needs to come out. I was too lazy to refill my air compressor. But I was using a long 1/2" extension swivel joint, 15mm, and impact. Compressor was to low on juice. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the help.

Yes, that's the tool for the quick disconnect, which is basically on the side of the transmission. Here's a pic of it(Just below the circle):

You're looking at the line disconnect which removes the line from the master. Although you can get the line off this way, the other disconnect is called a "quick disconnect" for a reason.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Yes replace the slave. If the exhaust isn't super rusty pull the y pipe, if it is leave it. I replaced my tranny, clutch and flywheel this weekend. Monday rolls around and I lost all clutch hydraulic pressure coming home from work. Get home and get to looking and that damn slave is leaking, and it looked just fine 2 days before. Dropped the tranny (took 30 minutes, body lift makes it a breeze), got a slave and had the tranny in and the clutch bled in under a hour and now it's fine, just pissed I had to pull it twice.

 

[SalvagedB3000]

Yes, that's the tool for the quick disconnect, which is basically on the side of the transmission. Here's a pic of it(Just below the circle):

You're looking at the line disconnect which removes the line from the master. Although you can get the line off this way, the other disconnect is called a "quick disconnect" for a reason.

Thanks man, I thought it was dissconnected form the mc side. What about just resealing my slave cyl? I'm thinking of saving some money and getting a reseal kit. The slave cyl is like $50+
DOH, I just looked at the pic, its not like normal slave cyl and they didnt offer a rebuild kit! And its made of PLASTIC!!