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Traction bar/ crossmember?


UrbanRedneckKid

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
2,439
Age
38
City
Cass Co, Missouri
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Sometime within the near future, I plan to inboard my rear springs, and add a traction bar to the mix.

Now for my question. Is the crossmember, that goes over the front of the fuel tank, strong enough to mount the shackle to?

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Really....? Wtf happened to TRS?

Thanks for all the help. Good think I'm a hell of a fabricator, and know what I'm doin.

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:thefinger:Then you shouldnt have even had to ask...right?:thefinger:

Just throw in a piece of square tube, dom or hrew and weld to that.
 
If I don't know then I don't answer. Just throw a crossmember up there that is strong enough. That way there are no doubts.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
I dont think so. It's not designed to have that much force in that direction.
 
No its not strong enough in stock form. It. Isn't even close to handle the twisting force of a shackle mount. If you are building a crossmember and a traction bar why not just 4 link the damn thing. $200 worth of coils and the DOM you would be using to make traction bars. You will loose most of the flex you gained through the inboarding by adding a traction bar...
 
No its not strong enough in stock form. It. Isn't even close to handle the twisting force of a shackle mount. If you are building a crossmember and a traction bar why not just 4 link the damn thing. $200 worth of coils and the DOM you would be using to make traction bars. You will loose most of the flex you gained through the inboarding by adding a traction bar...

Not true. I have less than 100 bucks in my traction bar. I lost little to no articulation. With a centered bar an shackle you will still have plenty of flex.

BTW the shackle should be on top of the crossmember to work correctly. I used .25" 3x2 angle to make a new crossmember under the original one. But if I had less than 6" of lift I would probably have driveshaft interference issues.

There are pics in my build somewhere in the last few pages.

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Just as I figured... Should I move my tank to the front of the bed while I'm at it? This is just my weekend beater, I don't wanna put a lot of work into it, besides the chassis is tweaked from the roll-over.

The only real fab work I plan to do to this is the cage.

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I offset my bar to the pass side of the driveshaft. I made a truss on my 8.8 to attach the upper link, then made a bracket that bolts to the ear with 3 bolts made for a vibration dampener for the lower link.

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I'm just welding tabs on my 9", I'll do them when I move my perches and shock tabs.

Is your crossmember bolted to your tank strap?

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The reason no body is answering right away is because it's summertime. Nobody wants to sit on the computer when it's beautiful out. Either way, no, I would not trust that stock crossmember. 3/16" or 1/4" tubing should do you well.
 
Its bolted to the skidplate upright, and added two 1/2" bolts where the upright bolts to the crossmember.

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