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TPS


Final777

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2021
Messages
72
City
28159
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
Hello again guys how is everyone today I've got a question about the throttle position sensor again i have a 1986 Ford ranger 2.3L gasoline guzzling truck. The last sensor that was on it was moved around or defective one, when the potient meter dial that is on the throttle body is turned in any way it changes the voltage from any where to 0.45v all the way up to 5.00v which is only suppose to happen at WOT it says it's not adjustable but when i bought a new one and replaced it my truck still does the very same thing. At idle the motor shakes and runs horrible. When i push on the throttle it smooths out but i have a great loss of power i have a very hard time reading needle sweeps on a meter i have tested it and the voltage was incorrect but i haven't been able to test it on the new one, my Ford code reader from Amazon also malfunctioned. So if any one at all can help me figure it out that would be awesome, i have had this truck for 3 years, i didn't know anything about mechanics until now, I've put a lot of sweat into doing all the work myself I've replaced just about 60% of all her parts, i even put another motor in her, and I've spent a lot of cash on her as well and i do not want to lose her please help
 
One wire on the connector should have 5 volts all the time and one(signal return) should have roghly 1 volt at idle and 5 at WOT. With the engine off, hook a volt meter to signal return, slightly loosen the sensor screws and turn the sensor to get the voltage as close to 1 volt as you can. This assumes the base idle screw is set properly.
Have you checked the fuel pressure?
 
TPS, Throttle Position Sensor, is a 5volt sensor
It has 3 wires, 5volt, return, ground
Key on engine off
Usually upper wire is 5v and lower is the ground
Center is the return

You can use a sewing needle to pierce any wire to test voltages, won't hurt the wire, push needle in at an angle so it contacts the "wire" inside insulation

Throttle closed spec is 0.69 to 0.99volt on center wire
WOT is 4.5volts to 4.7volts, never 5volts
In % this is 17-19% throttle closed, and 90-92% WOT
1volt is 20% of 5volts, just under 1v is throttle closed
4.5volt is 90% of 5volts, 4.5v or higher is WOT

You never want a 5 volt sensor's return voltage to be 0volts or 5volts otherwise its no good as a sensor as its range compromised, it must be higher than 0v and lower than 5v

TPS has 4 uses
Main use is to give the computer a "heads up" when gas pedal is pressed down, MAP or MAF sensors are slow to respond to changes in air flow, i.e. throttle opening
So without the "heads up" the engine would stumbled on acceleration until computer added more fuel based on MAP or MAF changes
Carburetors had an Accelerator Pump to squirt in the extra fuel when gas pedal was pressed down, fuel injection has the TPS

Foot off the gas pedal(TPS under 1v), with engine RPMs above 1,500, coasting, computer will shut off fuel injectors for coasting, this is one of the MPG benefits of fuel injection

TPS under 1volt, computer ignores O2 sensor(s), idle needs to be a richer mix to prevent overheating
TPS at 4.5v, computer ignores O2 sensor(s), it runs max. fuel for the RPM/load for best power, foot to the floor means "driver is not concerned with MPG" at that time, lol

Engine load, computer uses RPM, MAP/MAF data and TPS voltage to calculate engine's load so it can then calculate best air/fuel mix and spark timing


Its possible TPS could cause a rough idle but wouldn't be first on the list
Smaller vacuum leak would be more common, vacuum is highest at idle and O2 sensor is not being used, so a smaller vacuum leak could foul up the idle mix, lean mix
Same for fuel leak, Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) could have a small leak into the FPRs vacuum hose, or a leaking injector tip, so with O2 sensor off line its a richer mix, MPG would be effected overall

When you step on the gas pedal O2 sensor comes back on line and computer is now controlling the mix on the fly

If your MPG is not what it should be then change the O2 sensor first, only sensor that wears out, 12 years or 100k miles and they start to run out of the chemicals that detect oxygen, so MPG starts to go down and down and down, also can foul up idle because computer uses average O2 sensor readings when driving, called Long term fuel trims, to set the richer idle air/fuel mix
 
Okay I've tested my new tps and it's right according to those specs my 02 sensor for damaged pretty badly from my exhaust manifold overheating so that's the next part I'm replacing i can't find a vacuum leak anywhere, but from the symptoms that's exactly what i was thinking too can you use a spray bottle of water to find any leaks? I will be back in touch as soon as i replace my 02 sensor ty so much you guys y'all are awesome!!
 
I did also read the codes from the computer and the only one I'm getting with the (KOEO) is code 31 this is a code for an egr fault, i just replaced the egr but i still need to test it using a vacuum gauge and I'll check the fuel pressure as well ty again!!
 
And ty too ronb that explains a great deal in understanding how it all works tyi will look into this further
 
Okay I'm back, and I'm really at a stand still now on what is going on. I replaced my map sensor my throttle position sensor (and checked the specs on it) and a new O2 sensor, and still there's no change. I don't get it!! I've done smoke test also and checked for vacuum leaks and found none. The only code I'm getting is 31 egr circuit to low. I also have a brand new egr on her too, but i didn't replace the position sensor along with it, but could they really make my engine shake so violently at idle? When i give it throttle it seems to level out, but then when I actually try to get her to move forward she stalls on me. Bad injectors maybe? Please help!!!!
 
It's good you checked back man, sorry the problems, Give them a bit to start sorting this out for you ok? You'll be surprised
Good luck with it man
 
I'm sorry though i did leave something out i also got code 22 for the map sensor that's why i replaced it, but even after doing so I'm still getting code 21(truck wasn't warmed up) 22 and 31
 

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