Towing with my Ranger

[Kalwren]

Hi folks,

I'm looking to get some information on hitches. I don't know much about towing (I've done a ton of reading on here today, including the towing information in the tech section).

I'd like buy a class 3 trailer hitch. That appears to be the biggest one (and slightly overrated) for my '94 Ranger. 2WD, 4.0L, 5 Speed Manual, 9" rear drums. I'm not sure on the gearing, I would imagine it's stock. The rest of the truck is.

I see the hitches online to purchase from multiple retailers. What I would like to know, is where I can have one installed? Being safety is important to me, I'd rather have the experts install it.

I'd appreciate any suggestions that you have as to where to have a trailer hitch installed and what BRAND would you suggest?

Also, I have a flare-side bed. Will that cause any compatibility problems with a hitch I may want?

My bumper currently has a ball on it. I want to keep the stock bumper on my truck and get a hitch that fits right below it.

I plan on towing a trailer that will be carrying two jet skis (700 lbs of skis plus the trailer weight). Next summer, I plan on buying a boat - based on the size that is safe for my truck to pull. Like 18' maybe?

Thanks in advance and I appreciate the help!

 

[Downey]

a hitch is a hitch. you can tow that boat and jets not problem. you will keep your stock bumper no problem.

 

[triumphrider-1]

A place that might install it for you is your local camper place. I know they do around here. They would also wire up your hook up for the trailer lighting, extra of course.

Stock bumper will be fine, as long as what you get does not require modifiying it. I would look and see if I could find a good one from a Ranger in the junkyards near you.

 

[Kalwren]

Thank you for the replies.

I'll look around for a camper/RV place and see if they do hitch installs. Thanks for the tip!

 

[martin]

If you're buying a hitch designed for your truck you might as well install it yourself, It's not hard to put in six bolts.

 

[Captain Ledd]

I got a class III Reese hitch, I think they sell them right from their site?. It really is only a couple bolts.

Best to get one overrated, than underrated.

 

[James86]

If you're near a walmart, they sell them. I bought mine there.

 

[strvger]

U Haul rental places install hitches and wiring.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I bought my hitch for my Ranger several years ago via Summit Racing. They had a class III for around $120 or so IIRC, and it was a direct-fit. I had to pull out two bolts that hold the bumper on and re-use those holes (didn't affect the bumper at all) for the hitch, plus two other holes already in the frame. Took me all of about 2 hours to do, could have done it quicker if I would have had a friend to help hold the hitch up. I'd say to just do it yourself, but that's up to you.

Now that I have a bit more experience working on trucks, when I got my F-150 I installed a class III/IV that required some drilling and it wasn't all that bad other than having to drill 1/2" holes through the frame (not fun).

You shouldn't have any problems other than that, just be careful and allow extra stopping distance when you are towing. I've become a big fan of upgrading brakes and having trailer brakes, but I probably tow a bit more than you will. Oh, yea, and don't ride your brakes going down a long hill, it's a good way to lose your brakes before you get to the bottom when you're towing.

 

[Kalwren]

Excellent advice, thank you.

A couple people have stated that it's only a couple of bolts to install one? I can handle that, but I thought there was more to it.

I'll look at the hitches that are for sale on ETrailer.com and see what they have. Anyone have any suggestions for other sites?

I bought my hitch for my Ranger several years ago via Summit Racing. They had a class III for around $120 or so IIRC, and it was a direct-fit. I had to pull out two bolts that hold the bumper on and re-use those holes (didn't affect the bumper at all) for the hitch, plus two other holes already in the frame. Took me all of about 2 hours to do, could have done it quicker if I would have had a friend to help hold the hitch up. I'd say to just do it yourself, but that's up to you.

Now that I have a bit more experience working on trucks, when I got my F-150 I installed a class III/IV that required some drilling and it wasn't all that bad other than having to drill 1/2" holes through the frame (not fun).

You shouldn't have any problems other than that, just be careful and allow extra stopping distance when you are towing. I've become a big fan of upgrading brakes and having trailer brakes, but I probably tow a bit more than you will. Oh, yea, and don't ride your brakes going down a long hill, it's a good way to lose your brakes before you get to the bottom when you're towing.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Excellent advice, thank you.

A couple people have stated that it's only a couple of bolts to install one? I can handle that, but I thought there was more to it.

I'll look at the hitches that are for sale on ETrailer.com and see what they have. Anyone have any suggestions for other sites?

Yea, it's not all that bad with a direct-fit hitch. When you get into dealing with things such as trailer brakes and all, then you get into the joys of running wires everywhere. But it sounds like most of what you'll be doing will just require the stock 4-pin plug that's behind your bumper somewhere.

Summit Racing's site is http://www.summitracing.com

 

[Will]

The factory bumper will be fine for what you are towing--it's good for 2,000# and you aren't coming close to that at all. You buy a piece that snaps into your harness under the bed to run the trailer lights--it's idiot proof. You don't need brakes or anything on that trailer.

 

[TomB1269]

The factory bumper will be fine for what you are towing--it's good for 2,000# and you aren't coming close to that at all. You buy a piece that snaps into your harness under the bed to run the trailer lights--it's idiot proof. You don't need brakes or anything on that trailer.

I do not disagree, the bumper will pull fine for the weight. However, it has been my experence, particulary at hiway speeds that a nose down trailer pulls better than nose up, (same trailer, same weight, same loading - small pop-up with independent suspension most experenced with). When you have a receiver hitch you can obtain the correct drop length slide in. With my 02 Ranger Edge package on stock 15 tire setup (EDGE 2x4 & 4x4 remain at 4x4height), I need a 2 1/4 inch drop to run most trailers at 1 to 2 inches below level at the tongue. In addition, an A frame tongue will like to nick and ding bumber (and trailer) in tight turns. I have also found most straight tongues will actualy swing to a full 90 degrees (aka jacknife)if there is not tongue jack or like to strike the bumper. This can be a really nice feature when some intelligent person pins your nose and A$$ when you stop for a meal or what not, as you can back it in to a jacknife and then pull out.

As for installing the hitch, piece of cake on a original fit application.