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Tow Pig / Daily Driver Build


I snapped a few pictures today out in the field while I was picking up some stuff.

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I also had to replace the engine cover bracket.

The broke one.
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The new one.
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Cover re-installed.
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I also got the Ranger HVAC shut off so the antifreeze will not be flowing through the heater core when the HVAC panel is in the Max A/C position.
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A few random shots of the engine bay.
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The E4OD was replaced by the 4R100 when the first Super Duty pickups came out. The 5R110 transmission (torqshift) came out in 03 with the 6.0L diesel.

That's what I thought, but a family friend had his rebuilt (1998) and it was the 4R100, not the E4OD...Wonder if it was transplanted before he bought it :icon_confused:
SVT
 
I got another part for my intercooler install.

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Now I am waiting on my intercooler pipes to get here. I am having a custom set made specifically for the OBS with a Super Duty 7.3 intercooler for $200 shipped. They are one piece units. The only connections is at the intercooler and the spyder.
 
Lookin good there...Cant wait to see the pipes :icon_thumby:
SVT
 
Lookin good there...Cant wait to see the pipes :icon_thumby:
SVT
Me either. I have seen pictures of them online and from what the guy building them has sent me and they look good.
 
Is that a stock spyder from 99+ Superduties?? Where did you find that one, it'd be nice to find those parts for my dad's 97 F-350...What are the mods needed for the core support to fit the IC?? Take plenty of pics on that one, as I know John (railman) would like to do that to his as well...
SVT
 
Is that a stock spyder from 99+ Superduties?? Where did you find that one, it'd be nice to find those parts for my dad's 97 F-350...What are the mods needed for the core support to fit the IC?? Take plenty of pics on that one, as I know John (railman) would like to do that to his as well...
SVT
It is a factory '99-'99.5 Super Duty spyder. The '99.5+ 7.3 had 3" plenum intakes where the '94.5-'99.5 had 2" intake plenums.

Here is a good write up on the install.

http://members.localnet.com/~boys3/

The install doesn't seem to be all that bad. Just 2 holes to cut for the pipes to come through, 4 small brackets to make, and a few factory braces to modify a bit.
 
I have been looking for the silver XLT dash and door trim for a while. I happened on a set of the dash trim on eBay. The parts happen to be in Evansville, IN so shipping was exactly 1 day.

Before:
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After:
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I also got my TS Chip switch mounted. It is out of the way and not very noticeable.

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I didn't like the way the mirrors were looking and didn't want to buy a new set. I decided to try some Mothers Back to Black polish. It is supposed to bring the black back to vehicle trim. Needless to say, it worked.

Before:
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After:
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wow, i'm gonna have to try some of that mothers. truck's lookin good
 
wow, i'm gonna have to try some of that mothers. truck's lookin good
It took a couple times of application over and over, but in about 5 minutes the whole mirror looked like that.
 
That is a really good looking truck man!! I have always wanted a diesel Ford since I drove my dad's powerstroke.
 
I decided it was time for a boost gauge and a triple pillar pod instead of the dual pod.

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I ran the tubing to the intake Y-pipe so I would have a more accurate boost read out. The directions say to put it in the MAP sensor boost line that comes off the passenger side intake manifold.


Now I know what kind of boost I am making. The most boost I saw driving today was 25 PSI. The boost gauge would jump around once I got above 18 PSI.
 
Nice...But your pyro looks a little high from here....lol
SVT
 
Nice...But your pyro looks a little high from here....lol
SVT
Lol. That is what it does when I shut the truck off. It goes to different spots each time the truck is shut off.


I got the CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) mod done. The o-rings on my CCV was blowing through the seal between the valve cover and the vent case. I figured it was a good time to do the CCV mod while I had the vent off so I could turn it around to make it easier to run the tube.

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I also decided to cut the vent tube out of the factory air tube so I could use the factory mount for it.

I capped the factory CCV inlet with a 3/4" hose cap. It fit on there really tight, however I want ahead and put a clamp on it for extra measure

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For reference, the part numbers for the o-rings for the CCV is as follows:

Bolt O-Rings:
F4TZ-6769-A (2 o-rings needed, 1 per part number)

CCV to Valve Cover O-Rings:
F4TZ-6769-C (2 o-rings needed, 2 per part number)


Parts List for CCV mod:
1. 2x - F4TZ-6769-A
2. 1x - F4TZ-6769-C
3. 1x - 3/4" 90* Heater Hose plastic elbow
4. 3x - 7/8" to 1 1/4" hose clamps
5. 12' +/- 3/4" heater hose


Cost to do CCV mod this way was roughly $45.
 
Last edited:
I got my Garrett 1.0 turbo housing today.

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I am going to put it on while I have the turbo off when I am installing my electric fuel conversion.

I have the 2 filters (water/fuel separator, and 2 micro fuel filter), 2 filter bases, regulator, oil pressure switch, fittings, and banjo block coming.
 

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