Tossing some ideas around in my head

[bcw]

So im planning on pretty much overhaulin my ranger when I get back stateside in a few months and want to get some feedback from yall.
The plan is a skyjacker class 6in to eliminate my old 4 in and 3in body. the drivetrain will be swapped to 5.0l with a m50dr2 and hopefully a doubler transfer. For rear axle im thinkin explorer 8.8 with ARB or Eaton locker. The front will still be a Dana 35 with a Eaton or ARB locker and Dana 44 knuckles. For gears im thinkin 4.56. Im also wantin to go fiberglass fender and bedsides for clearance and to shed some of the wrinkled body. I use the truck mostly as a weekend warrior and occasional dd but work is 3mi away so most of its use will be hammering it off road.
Im on the fence about whether I should go to 35s or stick with 33s. will a 6in lift with fiberglass fenders clear 3

so lets hear what you guys have got any ideas are greatly appreciated.

 

[BLOODBANE]

On my 84 with a 4" suspension and 2" BL, I am clearing 36's (I cut the rear fenders) I have had the rear tires into the bed a little, but for the most part it works. I run the Glasswork, 3" cutout,3" f;air front fiberglass fenders....

I have a 347 stroker and have the 4:56's. I wish I would have went with the 4:88's, or even the 5:13's, but I wheel this thing in the rocks. The 4:56's work well, but I do find myself wanting a little lower gear from time to time. I run the 4:88's in my Explorer (also on 35's) and love them.

 

[bcw]

thanks for ideas I looked at the 4.88s and since their cheaper as well ill go with that. how do you like your fenders? do they hold up well and how hard were they to install? since movin to SD im startin to do more rock crawlin so im planning to make the suspension flexy so worried bout bustin the fenders up.

 

[BLOODBANE]

I havent had any issues with mine. As far as installing, I did mine in the driveway. One side kinda gave me fits, but they went on pretty easy (just take your time).

I havent really beat mine up, but they have been in branches and such. Being fiberglass, they are not quite as strong as the steel, but they do well enough.

 

[bcw]

ok cool. im thinking about running the auburn electric lockers has anybody used these yet?

 

[4x4junkie]

The Auburn ECTED, I think it is?

Every one I've seen slipped under load when they were needed most.
They really aren't lockers in any sense of the term, they are more accurately described as a limited slip that simply gets tighter when you "lock" them (there is no actual locking mechanism whatsoever in them, it simply ramps the preload higher on the clutches).
Stick with ARB or maybe the Yukon Zip locker if you want a real locker that is selectable.

Also if you plan to build it for flex, crawling, etc., stick with 4" of lift in the suspension, the steering linkage angle is more manageable at that height, which can easily make or break such a build (the Skyjacker kit's brackets have both 4" and 6" axle mounting holes, so can be set up either way).

 

[bcw]

well did not know that lol. well ill just have to budget for ARB then. what if I build a custom steering setup like stone crusher would that help the steering with a 6 in

 

[gandrimp]

Have you thought about Ox locker? Im on the fence with Ox or Arb. I believe Ox is made in the US.

 

[bcw]

I didn't know ox made lockers. I just looked at em and i like the fact they a manual way to actuate them since it can get cold in sd. and it comes with a cover which saves me some money

 

[bobbywalter]

i suggest keeping the body lift with v8 power on the options list.

i prefer them and consider it required for a larger powertrain swap...2-3 in is real good for maintenance and engine swap etc... i have a ridiculous amount of abuse and miles running with them and pointing out a con will be difficult...maybe even futile. you certainly have to be vigilant and pay attention to your mounts, and modding the system to use normal bolts smooths it out. they do fail, i have broken the poly blocks, and many guys make custom body mounts for the desired lift height eliminating and block issues.



the knuckle swap works out pretty good, i have sold a few from my truck and set up quite a few with several experiment combinations with varied success.. awesome bearings-better brakes are ideal compared to the ranger setup, but needing different wheels pushes me to suggest the full size 44... these days i would suggest to modify the brackets to allow full width ttb d44 installation and run a fw rear 60 or whatever...usually an 8.8 with a ttb 1/2 ton. the ttb 44 is easier to get upgrade parts for, 35 spline carriers/ axles-rcv shafts etc.... the ttb 35 in many areas of the country is becoming less common...not rare but not laying around like a herd of rabbits either.


since you going to abuse it a bit, the glass fenders are a risk. bulging/pulling the fenders and bedsides is real cheap...i cut them mostly with shears so the cut edge is rolled and nice and soft and skin friendly....and rolling the lips from there gives them strength... and smashing and straigtening them out is pretty easy. wrinkled yes....but not ripped off usually..

piecing it together could be costly, or you can do it cheaper then a sj class 2 and knuckle/glass fender swap...

 

[bcw]

I never thought of just swapping the entire dana 44 ttb. ill have to look into that