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Torsion keys and dropping front diff?


cp2295

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2013
Messages
1,027
City
Washougal, wa
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
My credo
If you ain't first you're last
So I read putting a 3" torsion key lift makes CVs go pretty quick. Why couldnt I just take some 1/4" steel and make little 1.5" drop brackets for the front diff? The only bad thing I can think of is the half shafts rubbing on the lower control arm, but I think there's enough clearance to where the wouldn't. Also, I realize the upper control arm will now be almost completely maxed out, why couldn't I just take an old UCA balljoint, cut the part out where it goes into the knuckle and then take a knuckle from the JY and cut top part out (3" or whatever looks right) and then weld the balljoint piece onto the bottom of the knuckle piece. That way I could have the UCA be back up to stock angle. The only part I can't think of anything for is the LCA. Just how to get it close to stock geometry angle.

This is just a cheap alternative to the superlift is what I'm trying to get at.. And I just want recognition to see if anyone thinks it'll work or not, thanks!
 
All that butchery will throw the axle geometry out of whack with the suspension (the axle will be trying to swing in a different arc than the suspension A-arms, causing overextension/overcompression of the CV joints). You would need to lower the lower A-arm mounting points on the frame the same 1.5" for it to work.

IOW, leave it alone until you can get some funds together to buy a kit and do it properly.
 
Yeah I was also thinking about buying a superlift kit and then throwing fox 2.0 shocks/coil overs and getting 5 or so inches of lift. If gusset the upper and lower shock mounts, just make sure it's all beefy, would that work good?
 
Alright man thanks I'll post the p/n if I find them for anyone's future reference.
 

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