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Torsion Bars


do you think that maybe a previous owner had to remove and re-install the torsion bars and swapped driver side from pass side?

if your the only owner, maybe the factory mistakenly put the wrong bar on the wrong side. the usually say which is which on a sticker thats on the bar.
 
So I've been trying to sort this out for awhile,

My 07 4x4 Sport supercab 4.0 has B rated bars. If I want better (ie: flexier) performance after cranking the bars 2" what bar do I want to change to? I know coilovers is probably the best option of all but for now it's t-bars....

I know the shock length needs to addressed as well, but one thing at a time and the torsion bars ride like ass after being cranked.

Sorry to kinda jack the thread but I've been watching this thread to see if my answer comes up here....

You want flexier, ditch the sway bar. Period. Not much extra if any at all flex will be gained by swapping to different grade bars. I have gobs of flex with no front or rear sway bar and also using longer rear shackles.

You crank the bars, you lose down travel...that's part of suspension travel....hand in hand with flex. Also when you crank the bars, like you stated, rides like junk...cranking firms the ride up. Going to a higher grade bar will also firm the ride up. BUT....going to that higher grade NEW bar, will take care of any sag that you might have in your current bars and since they are rated stronger, they'll keep the 'lift' you gained by cranking. Something also to be said about cranking: you crank, you put more wear on the bar. I first cranked my B bar truck at 40k, then brought it back up at like 50, then again at 60, then maxed at 70...all while keeping the same ride height.

Shock length....there really isn't any option at all for our trucks in regards to slightly longer front shocks...due to how the shocks mount to the truck. I've attempted, though not hard, to adapt an eye to eye shock to my truck using the factory lower shock bracket on the new shock, and using a jeep shock converison bracket up top. Replacing your factory shocks is a good idea even for an uncranked truck. MUCH better ride period vs. stock.
 
That's about what I figured.... Thanks for the feedback....

There's a guy in town here who managed to find a shock with a longer stroke that's fits, next time I run into him I'll try and figure out just what shock he is running....
 
My 98 ranger says FK. Does that mean I have the weakest front and rear? I just bought 31's and have been looking to lift it a little. I also haul alot. Would it be advantageous to change the torsion bars and leafs out? I have been looking at the explorer leaf swap. Would I be able to gain 1.5'' lift and more weight capacity with explorer leafs. I plan on cranking the torsion bars and lifting the back so it remains raked, just overall 2 inches higher. any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Sport Trac torsion bars are the stiffest.
Explorer leafs and/or shackles will lift it some but if you're going to regularly haul heavy stuff I'd invest in air bags or add-a-leafs.
 
Sport Trac torsion bars are the stiffest.
Explorer leafs and/or shackles will lift it some but if you're going to regularly haul heavy stuff I'd invest in air bags or add-a-leafs.

Sport Trac bars are still #1's....just like half the xcab 4x4 4dr rangers...


AAL or shackle for lift, Airbags for loads FTW!
 
Giving this a bump with some new info.....

While searching on this site the part #'s for the Code1 torsion bars were never mentioned. I have an 04 FX4 and my Ranger came with mid level B torsion bars. PN: F57A*5B326*BC
In a few threads on this site it was mentioned that you needed the VIN of a Level II Ranger or Sport Trac(two vehicles that came standard with # 1 bars) to acquire these parts from Ford.
This is not true!!
I got my part #'s from this site:
http://www.fordparts.com/Default.aspx

This thread is also a good thread on torsion bars, and where I discovered some info that really helped me:
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ht=torsion+sag

I went to the parts counter @ my local dealership and told the guy I wanted Code 1 torsion bars...he asked for my VIN and I just told him I want stiffer torsion bars than the ones that were original to my truck. I then told him the part #'s that I wanted:

Passenger side:F67Z*5B326*FA
Drivers side : F67Z*5B326*FB

Installation was easy with a 2 jaw gear puller I bought from the Harbor Freight store. It's not listed on the website (I got it @ the actual store)but it's a kit of 3 2jaw gear pullers for 19.99.

Here are the instructions I used as a guide during the installation:
http://www.readylift.com/files/instr...structions.pdf

I'm 99% sure that this info is correct....maybe if someone with a Level II Ranger can check his torsion bars for the part # we can confirm this. Or if anyone with further knowledge could confirm or prove this thread wrong that would be great.
Good luck........



I started a new thread with this post......here's the thread:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76534
 
Last edited:
thanks FITN217 My ranger is squated right out in the front, and it needs some #1 s i think
 
How far should my torsion bar bolt be sticking out? The bolt used to crank the bars up. I cranked them up then went back down and it doesn't feel right when driving.
 
Just a note, from reading the original post, Everyone talking about 265 tires this and that. He was running 16 inch rims. So for those of you running 265/70/15 and 265/70/15 you will have two different tire sizes and fitment will be different. the width (265mm) will be the same and the sidewall (70% 0f the width (I believe)) will also be similar, but The 16 inch rim tire will be taller than the 15 by that one inch.

just a note.
 
failure

I just tried to install #1 torsion bars on my 05 edge and I could not get them to mount up. No matter how much I cranked the gear puller it would not go up high enough to insert the metal piece that holds up the key. Also the 2 jaw gear puller kept slipping off. I had to put the old ones back on. The link for instructions was helpful but not detailed enough for me I guess. I wouldn't recommend the gear puller. The removal of the stock bars was easy. A video tutorial would be awesome. Maybe I am missing something.
 

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