Torque Specs/ Diff Cover

[chazzone]

I just swapped in an 8.8 from an Explorer in to my "89 BII, and planned to change the dif grease after a few hundred miles. So when it developed a leak, its no big deal. However, when I drain and refill this week, I don't want to do it again, until it's time for the next service interval.

I'm sure I got things a little too tight, and squeezed out the RTV.

Does anyone have any good torque specs to use, other than "don't over tighten"?

I've been working on engines since the 60's but this trial an error method seems like a big waste.

I also have to add that I've installed a Purple Cranium Spider Rock Cover, so I assume the torque specs are more critical than if I just had the factory cover.

Any thoughts from you guys?

-zz

 

[Dangeranger3]

I don't have my book in front of me, but I think its 14-20 ft lbs.

 

[metalmacguyver]

More RTV. A big fat bead. The RVT should not "squeeze out". Sure it does but some stays in there where the cover is not touching atoms with the diff.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I've never once torqued a diff cover to anything specific. You have to make sure the cover and mating surfaces are clean clean clean, go grease or oil reside as the RTV will not seal to it. Run a continuous 1/4" bead around the cover and put it on. I usually just run the bolts up snug with my 3/8" impact on the lowest setting.

 

[chazzone]

Thanks guys, did all the right stuff putting it on. It was definitley clean, and I've been making gaskets for years out of RTV, so I know the basics.

I definitely torqued it down a little tight, so that's why it's leaking now.

A fat bead of sealer would be fine if I was just running the factory diff, but with the rock guard, the extra weight would soon have her leaking like a sieve.

I'm going to try a Lubelocker gasket (http://www.lubelocker.com/) and see if it lives up to the hype.

-zz