Torque for Spring Hangers

[harriw]

Hey folks,

Getting ready to put my new/rebuilt leaf springs back on, and need to re-mount the spring hangers first. 2 of them had to come off to remove the spring, and I figured I might as well remove the others while I was at it to replace the bolts/bushings.

Obviously there's no Ford spec since they're originally riveted, but any recommendations on torque for re-mounting the spring hangers? I suppose it depends on the hardware being used... I can measure and post the bolt sizes when i get home if needed. Also, when I pulled off the front hanger, I found the previous owner used regular washers, with no split washers. Sound OK, or should I pick up some grade 8 split washers? Thanks!

Also... Should become obvious once I get into it, but does anyone know off the top of their head which way the (stock) spring goes - longer side forwards or backwards? (refering to the fact that the center pin is actually closer to one spring eye than the other). Thanks again!

-Bill H

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Short end of the spring goes towards the front of the truck.

I don't like using lock washers period. I use flat washers with stover lock nuts.

You can torque them according to what you use for a bolt, I just zip em up with a 3/8" impact at work and call it a day.

 

[Tony Raine]

i used some leftover 1/2" bolts from my james duff stuff. used the flat washers and nyloc nuts. i just tightened them with a long 1/2" ratchet until they were really tight.

get good hardware, and check them after about 100 miles. if they are still tight, then you should be good

 

[bilzy7]

I just put my in with 345 ft lb impact but I didn't do much after bolt made contact just enough to tighten.