Torque Conveter

[Quill]

I am finally putting another transmission in my 99 Ranger. I have the torque converter seated correctly, but I can't seem to get the studs on the converter to poke through the fly wheel. They are in line, but with the pin bolts tightened in the bell housing there is barely enough stud poking through the fly wheel that I can't catch it with the nut. Thanks for ideas.

 

[Tedybear]

couple of details.

The torque converter will actually slide slightly forward once everything is correctly lined up. (otherwise it would bottom out in the pump)

If this has the 2.9 and the A4LD? (not sure about the 4 banger for what it may/may not have come with). The back end of the crank has a thick spacer installed that the flex plate mounts to. The 'nub' or center hub of the torque converter slips into that nub for centering. It cracks and breaks quite easy as we found out.

Best thing to try. You've got all 4 bolt heads sticking into the flex plate, just not enough to start a nut on it? Reach around with the hand on the torque converter itself (starter hole is handy here) and attempt to move the torque converter slightly in both directions. You'll not be able to move it much--but you want to ensure it's not binding. If it's not binding up--and the bell housing bolts are all good to go? Reach behind the converter and give it a gentle pull forward into the flex plate.

When the converter is fully 'seated' it's actually bottomed out to the point the fins on the outer edge of the converter itself will rub slightly on the pump bolts (this is for the A4LD auto) So it is normal to line it up and give it a tiny pull forward in order to get the nuts on it.

We've done the A4LD in our 89 BII a total of 4 times with removal and install. It's a pain in the rear end, and the last time? We got nailed with a busted up crankshaft spacer that threw the torque converter just slightly off center. (it took out the pump bushing)(made a nice whirly sound though LOL)

S-