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2.3L ('83-'97) Tool Hunt - got myself in a bad spot '94 2.3L


That's fantastic you got the thing off, those pulleys are hard as heck! I've been there on a burnt and rusty pulley, ended up breaking the stock housing and pulling it off if I remember right... I tried everything I had, tried cutting it with a dremel and all sorts of stuff...

If it were me I would pull the front seal housing off and install the seal off the engine, that housing is pretty flimsy, would suck to cause another leak... there's just a paper gasket (can use cereal/beer box to replace) behind it and the rubber oil pan gasket under it so silicone will be your friend...
 
That's fantastic you got the thing off, those pulleys are hard as heck! I've been there on a burnt and rusty pulley, ended up breaking the stock housing and pulling it off if I remember right... I tried everything I had, tried cutting it with a dremel and all sorts of stuff...

If it were me I would pull the front seal housing off and install the seal off the engine, that housing is pretty flimsy, would suck to cause another leak... there's just a paper gasket (can use cereal/beer box to replace) behind it and the rubber oil pan gasket under it so silicone will be your friend...

ha.. thats the main reason I don't want to take that cover off. It's currently NOT leaking and if I screw with it at all, it's almost a guaranteed leak afterwords. I have that famous Midas touch with this stuff
 
oreilly,autozone, and advanced loan tools - you give em a credit card, they put a hold for the full amount as if you bought it, and IF you bring it back then they charge you some loan fee..... never done it cause the loan on like brake caliper compressor was 90% of the value, so buy it and the 2nd time you use it, you paid for it rather than loan... but somethin that special...
 
Ok, making progress. Making a "installation tool" isn't all that complex really. I used an old mower blade, a PVC p=pipe coupler, and the crankshaft bolt. the crank bolt works perfect just as long as you have the PVC pipe fitting 2 3/4" long.

Needed:
- solid piece of steel with a hole in center for 9/16 bolt (crank bolt is 9/16-18). I cut mine from an old mower blade.
- 1 1/2" PVC pipe coupler, 2 3/4 inches long.

Now that I have the difficult one finished, on to the other two, much easier ones.


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Good deal...
 
I could literally see that set up working on many applications. You might have to cut a different length/size tube and use the subjects crank pulley bolt... but the seals would be put in straight.
 
I really like how you did that.

Didn't we have a "home made tool" thread at one time?
 
I could literally see that set up working on many applications. You might have to cut a different length/size tube and use the subjects crank pulley bolt... but the seals would be put in straight.

I dunno if it was just paranoia, but like I said before, I have that Midas touch. So I was worried about cracking that aluminum cover if
I started beating on the seal. I don't need to be going on a treasure hunt trying to find one. I'm glad I took the time to round up the junk to do it proper.
And just as a side note, it pressed in pretty easily. I doubt I would have had to whack on it very hard, but still, it's thin aluminum so...

I also destroyed one the seal on the first try. I think the rubber grabbed the rough surface on the radius of the crank from the old rust pits. I had it sanded down and oiled, but it still grabbed. I spent another 20 minutes polishing the radius and slathered it with assembly lube real good on try #2 and it slid right in there without issue. I now have to wait til tomorrow morning for the replacement so I can do the cam seal. I put one in it 1000mi ago when I rebuilt the head, but it was a Fel-Pro. FelPro makes good gaskets, but their shaft seals have always been sub-standard in my experience. I can't quite tell where this thing was leaking, but I'm replacing them all with National brand seals while I have it apart.

For future readers, the crankshaft (front), aux, and camshaft seals all all three the same seal. It is a National #955. Also, O'Reilly MasterPro seals are re-branded Nationals, and the O'Reilly part# is 2955.
 
Home made tools are such a.. feel good part of the hobby imo.

Dude I know owns a twin turbo audi R8.. and used a can of mt. Dew to drive home his rear main seal lol.. actually might of been on a Lambo.. either way.. fixing rich guy shit with greaseball methods is hilariously priceless.
 
A tip for those who drive seals... if you fill the inner side of the seal where the spring surrounds the seal lip with grease, it lessens the possibility of the spring popping off when you poke the seal into position.
Applies more to a tapped in seal than one that is pressed, but certainly doesn't hurt to file away for future reference.
I left Indy when graduated HS back in the 60's. Back this July for two sisters having their birthdays. One turned 80 and a week later the other 81. Time is flying by.
Have fun with your project. Making a tool from scrap is always satisfying, ESPECIALLY when it works so well. I think I would have gone for it with tapping the seal into the Al housing, but have not had the opportunity on my 85. Yet. But, the seal driver is simple and effective, and easy to make, so will be useful in the future.
tom
 
Well, I got the job wrapped up today. I've decided to wait at least 24 hours before I fire it up to allow the thread sealer to cure. I don't want to risk having that cam bolt start leaking.
I had it half way put back together and realized I forgot to run the crank sensor wiring harness behind the timing cover, I had it tucked away up top so it wouldn't get damaged and totally spaced it. I had to tear the whole timing belt system back apart again, clean and chase all the dang threads again and start over. I'm glad my mother wasn't around to hear my sailor mouth and the flying wrenches.
If this thing starts leaking oil again, I think I'm going to push if off of a cliff somewhere.
 

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