Timing problem(I think)

[Speedwagon]

The timing in the truck is set to factory spec(SPOUT disconnected). When I connect everything as it should be, it feels like the truck is pulling timing, and I get some hesitation and low power. If I disconnect the SPOUT connector and drive it around, it seems to make the problem go away. It even feels like it might be driving better with the SPOUT connector off. I also tried disconnecting the knock sensor, and there was no change with or without the SPOUT.

Is this an indication of a problem with the TFI module? I've had the module tested recently, and it passed the tests at the parts store. Could it be bad just the same? Or is there something else here that could be causing this issue?

 

[ranger dude]

make sure you are disconnecting the timing spout some have two connectors that look the same one is the spout and one it the octane shorting bar they look the same but the octane bar is to retard timing for pinging issues base timing with the spout connected should be about 17 degrees clean maf sensor clear computor codes and take for a long drive and yes the module could still be bad if they did not test the pip (pickup ignition profile)part of the module I would replace the pickup & module together if your still having the problem also check for codes

 

[feellnfroggy]

I believe disconnected spout results in 10 degrees base timing. But it sounds like a Maf problems. Or maybe another emissions based problem.

 

[Speedwagon]

make sure you are disconnecting the timing spout some have two connectors that look the same one is the spout and one it the octane shorting bar they look the same but the octane bar is to retard timing for pinging issues base timing with the spout connected should be about 17 degrees clean maf sensor clear computor codes and take for a long drive and yes the module could still be bad if they did not test the pip (pickup ignition profile)part of the module I would replace the pickup & module together if your still having the problem also check for codes

I believe disconnected spout results in 10 degrees base timing. But it sounds like a Maf problems. Or maybe another emissions based problem.

No MAF, it's a MAP system. And when I disconnect the SPOUT connector, my timing returns to 10(factory spec), and advances to ~30 with it connected. So I'm fairly positive it HAS to be the SPOUT connector that I'm playing with.

Also, the pickup in the dist. is new.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Depends on which truck your working on. You didnt specify. The 92 will me Mass airflow. The 87 will be Map. Now if the 92 is the 3.0 I cant help ya.

I will ask ya this, did you buy a truck that was previously a low altitude truck? Ford specifies for higher altitudes that the truck should be set 10 degrees with spout connected.(extremely higher altitudes) I could have misread it but thats waht mine said.

If your up higher with say a florida truck then it will be running too rich. Not enough air.

I also dont know how long you had this truck when it started having the prob or if it always had it. etc. So i could be wrong again.

 

[Speedwagon]

Depends on which truck your working on. You didnt specify. The 92 will me Mass airflow. The 87 will be Map. Now if the 92 is the 3.0 I cant help ya.

I will ask ya this, did you buy a truck that was previously a low altitude truck? Ford specifies for higher altitudes that the truck should be set 10 degrees with spout connected.(extremely higher altitudes) I could have misread it but thats waht mine said.

If your up higher with say a florida truck then it will be running too rich. Not enough air.

I also dont know how long you had this truck when it started having the prob or if it always had it. etc. So i could be wrong again.

Yea, the '87. '92 runs fine up here. And I bought the '87 a year ago, from someone in the area, and to my knowledge the truck has always been here in Denver. Didn't realize that timing spec was possibly different for altitude though.

Latest thing I did to this truck was have the head completely redone at a machine shop, so it should be running damn near perfect right now. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, FPR, PIP are all new, MAP was changed out with one from a junkyard, and distributor was inspected when I had the head off. Basically, the only thing I haven't replaced is the TFI module and computer.

And where did you find the info about altitude?

 

[feellnfroggy]

And where did you find the info about altitude?

My belt routing label/ignition label under the hood. Its said something about high altitude should be set 10 degrees. Ive never tried it or verified, just read the label. I dont have the truck anymore or I would send you a pic. My 92 did what you are talking about and it was a combination of things (2.3l) my coil( dualspark) was missing on primary coil points one and four. Also Someone put a cherry bomb on it with no cats. So it never fully ran right. I drove it without the MAF.

 

[Lonewolf]

I am glad i found this on a "pinging" search, i got my 1998 3.0 about 6months and 10,000 mi ago, it has always been a little weak on power climbing up the mountain , sometimes better than others. I noticed it pinging recently so I would change speeds/revs to make it go away , today it wouldn't go away . I know it will ruin the engine and I better do something

after work, I took out the MAF and sprayed some electronic cleaner in the hole and the electrical connector and put some dielectric grease on the connector and put in a new air filter
Took it for a test drive up a steep grade and no more pinging and way more power
thanks,


Is there a better way to clean the MAF ?

is it worth it to get a new MAF and power module ?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

just get some mass air flow cleaner, spray the maf down. and let it completely dry out. then put it back on.

a new maf will run minimal 150-200