2.3L ('83-'97) Timing jump?

[bobaloo]

Hi all.
I've got a 1994 2.3, two wheel drive Ranger and It's been running rough and sucking gas for a couple months now.
I checked the codes it showed codes for # 158 "MAF sensor voltage high. and #337 EGR sensor voltage high. I checked wires to both all was well. Replaced MAF sensor, no difference, checked everything connected to EGR, vacuume too. I ordered a new EGR transducer and am still waiting on it. In the meantime I checked the engine timing. Well with spout connector unplugged and engine warm it was at 20deg BTC tag says it should be 10deg. I changed the belt a couple years ago and it ran great until a few months ago. Could it have jumped timing? I didn't know it would still run with timing 10deg off! Why didn't it throw a code for engine timing?
Any thoughts?

 

[franklin2]

The computer is dumb as far as the timing goes. It knows when #1 cylinder goes by, and it can vary the timing according to conditions and the sensor input. But it only adds and subtracts from the base timing. It relys on you to set the starting point or the base timing. That is why you have to pull the spout connector before you set it, that takes timing control away from the computer so you can set the base 10 BTDC.

If you think your belt is off, setting the distributor is only going to set the ignition timing. If the belt is off, your valve timing will still be off.

 

[bobaloo]

No distributor, coil packs. I was wondering what the spout connector was for, now I know, thanks! BTW the timing is the same with SPOUT in or out. Also when I unplug the MAF sensor the engine runs the same, is this normal? Is it because at an idle, the Idle air solenoid is controlling air volume. I've had GM products that would hardly run with the MAF disconnected.
Finally I learned years ago that valve timing is not the same as ignition timing. It was on a 68 Roadrunner, I had the headers glowing red. It looked cool, but it wasn't .

 

[scotts90ranger]

There's no adjusting the timing on the DIS system, why it's 10 degrees off I'm not sure, unless your crank sensor is mad or the key in the crank is broken (been there, never put a timing light on a 2.3L in the 21 years I've had it though...)

With no change when you unplug the MAF, and the MAF code and EGR code I would look into wiring, on a '94 I think it just has an EGR position sensor, not sure how that works but it could just be an on/off signal. I would guess there is a short somewhere and you're getting probably 5V power to the MAF signal wire or something...

 

[bobaloo]

Original problem was poor fuel mileage, smell of gas, loss of power and you can hear it missing at the tailpipe.
Well valve timing is spot on and lined up perfect with crank timing mark. Just came in from putting new timing belt and tensioner. It was fine before but since I had it torn down, I put a new belt on anyway.
A couple weeks ago, I installed all, brand new Ford injectors. While I had intake off for injectors I put iridium plugs in both sides, 8mm silicone wires, and new coil packs.
I have back traced every wire to every sensor I could find. All getting voltages as specified. Bench tested any sensor having anything to do with EGR system. Now I have the same problems I started with, poor fuel mileage, smell of gas, loss of power and you can hear it missing at the tailpipe. Nothing has changed except my bank account.

 

[bobaloo]

Oh yeah, timing stays the same with or without SPOUT connected. 20deg BTDC.

 

[Dirtman]

When you did the timing are you sure the auxiliary gear was also on the mark and not jumped a tooth or more? Cam position sensor follows the auxiliary gear not the cam gear for, god only knows why ford did that. All 3 gears need to be on the mark. Ignition follows both cam and crank sensors. One being off would screw up ignition timing.

Also, there should not be a spout connector on a 94. It wouldn't serve any purpose as there is no manual ignition timing to set so I'm kinda confused on that...

 

[bobaloo]

When you did the timing are you sure the auxiliary gear was also on the mark and not jumped a tooth or more? Cam position sensor follows the auxiliary gear not the cam gear for, god only knows why ford did that. All 3 gears need to be on the mark. Ignition follows both cam and crank sensors. One being off would screw up ignition timing.

Also, there should not be a spout connector on a 94. It wouldn't serve any purpose as there is no manual ignition timing to set so I'm kinda confused on that...

Where is the cam sensor, I didn't see one today. Yes, all pulleys where aligned correctly after installing tensioner, double checked and engine manually rotated 3 times before reassembly.
Sticker under hood says 10deg with spout disconnected. I only found one wire that looked like the spout connector on my older Ford vehicles, I assumed it was it.

 

[Dirtman]

Cam position sensor should be lodged down where the distributor would be on an older 2.3. It runs off the same gear that use to be for the distributor/oil pump. Pretty sure they all had them after they went to DIS but that may just be on California models until 1995 when obd2 became standard.

And yea no idea what you are unplugging or why the sticker would mention a spout. A spout connector only works on a distributor.

 

[scotts90ranger]

In '94 only cali Rangers (and only '94-95) had cam sensors and they were installed where the distributor would go or where there would be a oil pump drive on the rest of the DIS 2.3L's, it likely doesn't have one.

I would do a compression test to see what is going on... there has to be something going on...

 

[RustyShackleford94]

Try pulling the vacuum like off the egr valve and plugging it. Mine was doing the same thing when i bought it, ended up being a bad egr vacuum solenoid.

 

[bobaloo]

While driving past a local Ford dealer, I figured I'd pick some brains. Technician and outside snd showed me the correct SPOUT connector and unplugged it for me, then went and got his timing light and checked it for me! 10deg BTDC perfect! (His boss when home for the weekend). Got out a vacuum pump and showed me I had a sticking EGR valve. I guess it was just barely cracked open and causing a vacuum leak. He checked the codes and told me to get a new EGR valve from Rock Auto or somewhere cheap. Picked up a Delphi one for thirty some bucks.
He said if that doesn't do it get a new vacuum solenoid even though it bench tested good.
All I had on me was a $20, guy was so happy he gave me a business card with his home info on it!
I'll give him a call next time I'm really at my wits end.

 

[Chapap]

I bought mine with bad timing. Felt like it was running on 2 cylinders. Belt looked fairly new so was probably installed wrong. Didn’t actually see how off it was, but when I put on a new belt and lined everything up, it ran like a dream.