Timing Belt, Tensioner, Water Pump, Etc.

[Norfolk94]

In 2005 I had a new water pump installed and a tensioner, probably a new serpentine belt. In 2006 I needed to pay more attention to suspension problems. The truck was tuned up and runs really well, except for an idling problem. Today at a new chain tune-up place, the manager claimed there's nothing at all wrong with the tune-up from last year, the plugs are fine, etc.

He says it's the timing. Hey, I don't know when a 94 Mazda with 100K miles on it should have had the timing belt changed, and I don't know if it ever was.

But then I read where if a tensioner is installed improperly, it can mess up the timing belt. Since the new tensioner was installed beforethe tune-up and suspension work last year, is it likely the mechanic, who basically refurbished everything but the kitchen sink on this truck, would have overlooked some improperly set tensioner?

I wanted to ride out this fine old truck, but every time I want to run it out, some wonderful friend says Don't Give Up. The truck idles fine for about a minute, and then it sounds like it's gonna stall out. What can I do before going to a shop and asking for the Works? I'm wondering if they'll push another new water pump on me since they're gonna have to take the new/old one out anyway...I think.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you dont have a timing belt, you have a timing chain and they rarely cause problems.

even if you did have a timing belt, the tensioner that was replaced was for the serpentine (accessory) belt, and it wouldnt have any effect on a timing belt (which has its own tensioner).

its possible your idle air control solenoid is sticking on you.

 

[Norfolk94]

How often do these go on a truck? I had an idle air solenoid repaired/replaced shortly after the water pump/tensioner in 2005. Thanks.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

less often then every 2 years.

unfortunately theres a whole list of things that could be causing this condition. the first place i'd start would be to try pulling codes on the truck and see if any exist (even if the CEL isnt on, there could still be error codes stored in the PCM).

 

[Bob Ayers]

Try cleaning the mechanical part of the IAC valve. If you have been using a K&N air filter, the IAC valve (along with the MAF sensor, and throttle body) will gum up with dirt and oil quickly. An IAC valve malfunction normally will not throw a CEL, or error code.

 

[Norfolk94]

Chilton's says you should inspect the timing belt (their word, not mine) every so often. How would you inspect it and not replace it? (And thanks for the head's up; it was the MAF sensor I had replaced, not the IAC valve.) I don't think you can get codes on trucks as old as mine (94).

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

chiltons manuals are good if you know someone who's too short to see over the steering wheel....but thats about it. 3.0's have a timing chain. only the 4 bangers use belts.

if the IAC isnt new, then i would once again suspect a fault with it. remove it and clean it up, then put a drop of oil on the valve shaft.

ford has had on-board-diagnostics (and therefor error codes) in rangers since 1986. you can get codes on it.

 

[Ozwynn]

yeah, chiltons sucks ass. If you go through the trouble to get the the timing chain then common sense should tell you to replace it. That answers that question. after you pull the codes post them here and don't replace anything yet, just because a code says something is bad doesn't mean its bad.

 

[Norfolk94]

Thanks, I will. Where I'm writing from it shouldn't be too hard to find an unemployed Ranger pro to diagnose it...unless they all moved to a new truck manufacturer in Chihuahua.

 

[Norfolk94]

if the IAC isnt new, then i would once again suspect a fault with it. remove it and clean it up, then put a drop of oil on the valve shaft.

Took me a month and a half, but I finally got around to working on this. A timing "light" or whatever the heck you call it, showed the timing's fine. Outside of an auto graveyard, is there anywhere you can just buy a new gasket? The price for a new IAC is @$50 here in Norfolk.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i usually reuse that gasket...they seem to seal up just fine.

 

[Norfolk94]

Well, been there, done that. It's a shame, too, 'cause I sprung for a whole $1.98 new gasket. Engine turned over like a charm. Two whole minutes idled like a new one. THen, "ka-blug, ka-blug, ka-blug." White exhaust. (Haven't been running it a lot, needless to say.)

This is starting to get me worried. I paid more in patch jobs for this baby then I would if I signed a new lease for some wonderful truck made outside of Hampton Road.s

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

white smoke is antifreeze burning.

time for compression and cooling system tests.

 

[Norfolk94]

white smoke is antifreeze burning.

time for compression and cooling system tests.

Wicked Slude (or others): I drove from Norfolk to Northern Pennsylvania on Monday, no problems.

Could the white smoke just be from sitting during a whole week of downpours by the Chesapeake Bay?

I gotta go back to Norfolk in a week, and dang if my battery terminals don't get corroded over night. THe truck runs good, but between the compression problems ? and a battery that looks like something from a text book on electrical systems, I don't know how this truck is still running so good.

Anyway, appreciate hearing if overfilling the radiator with coolant coudl have caused the white smoke too. Thanks WS.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the white "smoke" COULD have been just steam from a cold motor. if it does it again, smell the exhaust. if it smells sweet then your in trouble. also keep an eye on coolant use and engine oil condition.

overfilling the coolant recovery bottle wont cause any problems aside from a puddle of spilled coolant under the truck when it spits the excess out.

glad the truck is running well for you...lets hope it keeps up.