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Timing Belt question....


marty600

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
7
Age
65
City
naperville, il
Vehicle Year
1993 Splash
Transmission
Manual
I have searched hard, but never found an answer.
Have a 93, 4cyl. Haynes AND Ford manuals state that removing
the Crankshaft position sensor is "part of the job". Do not have the
re-positioning tool they call for. Nobody else seems to have messed with
this during their belt change!
can you guys enlighten me on this task?
thank you for your time.
marty
 
in right front of engine ...Is it behind the pulley

Removal (2.3L) 1.Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove accessory belt(s). Remove crankshaft pulley, hub, and belt guide. Remove timing belt outer cover retaining bolts. Release cover tabs. 2.Remove timing belt cover. Unplug crankshaft sensor wire connector from engine harness. Remove crankshaft sensor 4-wire connector by prying out on Red retaining clip. CAUTION:Always turn engine in direction of normal rotation (clockwise as viewed from front of engine). 3.Rotate crankshaft to position crankshaft keyway at 10 o'clock position to place vane window of inner and outer vane cups over crankshaft timing sensor. Remove crankshaft sensor retaining bolts and plastic wire harness retainer. Remove crankshaft sensor. good luck

I've use a 2-3 business card paper for realigned
 
Last edited:
yes, This is what i have read, on paper. Do not have the re-positioning tool.
Also, note that you are not setting the crank at TDC before removal. Is this sensor
"trapped" in there by these so-called vane windows? arggg!
 
its been a very long time since i did mine without the tool and BROKE the $100 sensor.. the new sensor came with the tool though.

you might be able to unbolt the crank sensor bracket from the engine block and not have to disturb the sensors position, but im not sure if you have access to the bracket bolts before you remove the crank hub
 
I've never taken the crank sensor off to change the timing belt... the sensor is behind the crank pulley, and it's the crank pulley that's in the way of pulling the timing belt. there's only two bolts holding the sensor bracket on and a dowel pin aligning that part if you decide you have to take the sensor off.

for the record when I changed my crank sensor the last time I did it without the special tool... just eyeballed it.
 
I've never taken the crank sensor off to change the timing belt... the sensor is behind the crank pulley, and it's the crank pulley that's in the way of pulling the timing belt. there's only two bolts holding the sensor bracket on and a dowel pin aligning that part if you decide you have to take the sensor off.

for the record when I changed my crank sensor the last time I did it without the special tool... just eyeballed it.

So, it is not trapped by the configuration of pulley or the harmonic balancer?
Concerned about using a puller to remove the balancer, and snapping it(sensor) off.
thanks in advance...
 
just did one of these earlier, use a puller to remove the tone wheel which is what rides inside the crank sensor, disconenct it once the 2 bolts are off and pull the wire threw, put the new one on and for alignment if you dont have a tool use a magnetic business card, one of the thin ones.
the sensor has a little room for adjustment so you can finess it.
after i was done i hooked an impact on low setting to turn the motor over, (didnt overtorque the crank bolt) and make sure it doesnt hit.
when you start the motor up youll know if its hitting its a loud tick.
usually though 1 business card or 3 paper business cards gets you close.
did this on my own 1994 ranger about a year ago without the sensor and it hasnt broke but before you put it back together make sure it isnt rubbing
 
same as bird, i used a buisness card to align the sensor. there was a good write up somewhere on changing the timing belt. can't remember where.
 
2.3 & 2.5 Timing belt removal & installation

1. Rotate the engine so that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Check that the timing marks are aligned on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys. An access plug is provided in the cam belt cover so that the camshaft timing can be checked without removal of the cover or any other parts. Set the crankshaft to TDC by aligning the timing mark on the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the belt cover. Look through the access hole in the belt cover to make sure that the timing mark on the cam drive sprocket is lined up with the pointer on the inner belt cover.

2. If the belt is still on the engine and you wan't to check the timing turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. Backward rotation may cause the timing belt to jump time, due to the arrangement of the belt tensioner, if the belt has stripped teeth, or is broken this doesn't matter.

3. Cooling system, you do not have to completely drain it, just drain it enough so the upper radiator hose can be removed from the thermostat housing and the radiator, it's easier to access the front of the engine if you remove the fan shroud. Remove the fan blade and water pump pulley bolts.

4. Loosen the alternator retaining bolts and remove the drive belt from the pulleys, remove the water pump pulley, if you have power steering rather than removing the whole power steering pump bracket just remove the one idler pulley that partially covers the timing belt cover from the bracket.

5. Remove the four timing belt outer cover retaining bolts and remove the cover. Remove the crankshaft pulley and belt guide.

6. Loosen the belt tensioner pulley assembly, then position a camshaft belt adjuster tool T74P–6254–A or equivalent, (I use a small pry bar) on the tension spring rollpin and retract the belt tensioner away from the timing belt. Tighten the adjustment bolt to lock the tensioner in the retracted position.

7. Remove the timing belt.

8. Install the new belt over the crankshaft sprocket and then counterclockwise over the auxiliary and camshaft sprockets, making sure the lugs on the belt properly engage the sprocket teeth on the pulleys. Be careful not to rotate the pulleys when installing the belt.

9. Release the timing belt tensioner pulley, allowing the tensioner to take up the belt slack. If the spring does not have enough tension to move the roller against the belt (belt hangs loose), it might be necessary to manually push the roller against the belt and tighten the bolt. (They say the spring cannot be used to set belt tension, and a belt tensioner tool must be used on the tensioner assembly, I use the spring tensioner to set the tension on the belt, and have had no problems doing it this way for allmost 25 years).

10. Rotate the crankshaft two complete turns by hand (in the normal direction of rotation) to remove the slack from the belt, then tighten the tensioner adjustment and pivot bolts to specifications. Make sure the belt is seated properly on the pulleys and that the timing marks are still in alignment when No. 1 cylinder is again at TDC/compression.

11. Install the belt guide, crankshaft pulley, timing belt cover, timing belt cover, (idler pulley if you have power steering), water pump pulley, and fan

12. Install upper radiator hose if necessary. Refill the cooling system.

13. Position the alternator and drive belts, then adjust and tighten it to specifications.

14. Start the engine and check the ignition timing. Adjust the timing, if necessary.
found it.
 

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