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Timing Belt Discussion


look closer. its a diamond or a triangle. its possible that your 94 doesn't have a cam sensor. look on the side of the engine for something stcking out of the block behind the aux gear. if that dummy shaft has no wires coming out of it then you don't have to worry about the aux gear

also that round peg is not the keyway. put the front timing cover back on and set the pulley mark to the TDC mark of the timing cover and recheck. im going to go get your a picture of my dummy shaft.. mine is the type without a cam sensor

timing12-vert.jpg
 
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look closer. its a diamond or a triangle. its possible that your 94 doesn't have a cam sensor. look on the side of the engine for something stcking out of the block behind the aux gear. if that dummy shaft has no wires coming out of it then you don't have to worry about the aux gear

also that round peg is not the keyway. put the front timing cover back on and set the pulley mark to the TDC mark of the timing cover and recheck. im going to go get your a picture of my dummy shaft.. mine is the type without a cam sensor

timing12-vert.jpg

My crankshaft pulley definitely does not have that notched out place, although it does have a very distinct line etched. You can see this in pic 4 of the album as it showed up pretty nice in this picture.

Here's the link again: http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss65/danielwd1/album2/

Unfortunately, I haven't had a whole lot of time to inspect for a cam sensor as I am more worried about the compression test I am currently performing. I can tell you that I have not observed an sensor in any remote location near what the Haynes Manual calls the "auxillary sprocket". In later years, it works the oil pump, which I think mine still does, but it does not have a sensor.

I will reply back in a couple of days after I get someone to help read my pressure gauge for this compression test. My wife doesn't really care to help me.
 
you have to remove the crankshaft pulley to be able to see the keyway. you will have low compression readings if your cam timing is off
 
you have to remove the crankshaft pulley to be able to see the keyway. you will have low compression readings if your cam timing is off

I have completed the compression test and all is well in the engine.

Got the crankshaft pulley off and I can distinctly see the "keyway". It is a metal sliver on the crankshaft.

There is no cam sensor in my 94 Ranger twin plug V4. There is also no distributor.

What I'm having trouble with now is getting things lined up right and keeping them right after tightening the tensioner. I am always a tooth or two off after tightening. It is just a game of getting the slack out in the right places!
 
set the cam and crank where they belong. put the belt on the crankshaft and pull on the right side as you put it on the camshaft, this is how the engine pulls the belt as it runs so the right side needs to be tight as you put it on. doing it this way usually gets my belts on perfect the first time.

did you tighten the tensioner bolt with the tensioner fully retracted? this makes it easy to slip the belt on and then just loosen the bolt for it to tension
 
BTW, there is no V-4 in your truck
 
set the cam and crank where they belong. put the belt on the crankshaft and pull on the right side as you put it on the camshaft, this is how the engine pulls the belt as it runs so the right side needs to be tight as you put it on. doing it this way usually gets my belts on perfect the first time.

did you tighten the tensioner bolt with the tensioner fully retracted? this makes it easy to slip the belt on and then just loosen the bolt for it to tension

Success! The timing is perfect. Now I'm having rough idle and I'm chalking that up to really, really bad clogged fuel injectors. I took off my fuel filter, which is the original from 1994, and black fuel with metal shavings came out of the filter. The filter was very heavy, I would say about 3 to 4 times heavier than the new one I put in. Thanks for your help in this matter Brutus.

The truck still idles very roughly and accelerates with I'd say 25% of the power it used to have. I thought it may have jumped time which is why I changed the timing belt, plus the fact that it needed a new one anyways (it was the original 1994 with 170,000 miles. I checked air flow and it seems good. I changed out spark plugs and wires.

It has to be the fuel injectors after seeing how bad that fuel filter was. I checked fuel pressure using the gauge by the fuel rail and it spat out at a pretty good rate.

Does anybody know how to test to see whether fuel injectors are clogged while their still in the truck? How about if they are off the truck?
 
Does anybody know how to test to see whether fuel injectors are clogged while their still in the truck? How about if they are off the truck?

Pull the fuel rail off, while leaving the fuel lines hooked up, and the injectors plugged into the rail. Point at enemy, and crank the engine. If you notice any dry spots on him you just might have a clogged injector.......

Sorry i have no clue. Put a screwdriver on em and listen if theyre clicking will give you an idea if all of them are working.
 
Pull the fuel rail off, while leaving the fuel lines hooked up, and the injectors plugged into the rail. Point at enemy, and crank the engine. If you notice any dry spots on him you just might have a clogged injector.......

Sorry i have no clue. Put a screwdriver on em and listen if theyre clicking will give you an idea if all of them are working.

I'll make sure to have my wife present at testing.

Thanks for the info!
 

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