Time for a new engine... 99 4.0l

[JoshT]

Last night on my way home from hunting it shit another head gasket. Third set in the last 60k miles, one of those also included brand new heads. IMO something else is wrong in there. Since the truck just went over 180k I'm going to build a new motor and be done with it.

This truck is a 99 Ranger 4.0L OHV. Its 4wd, auto, and wears heavy 32x11.5 tires. The trans was rebuilt in the last 20k. Has 4.10 gears and could probably stand an upgrade, but engine comes first. The truck is mostly used for hunting and as a backup DD, but needs to stay capable of crusing at interstate speeds.

From what I've read in the tech library I need to stick with 97tm block and 98tm heads, but everything else is open as long as balance is considered. So before in start rebuilding are there any improvements I can make by mixing and matching parts? Or any internal upgrades for power/performance/reliability without breaking the bank?

Right now I'm just planning out my build so I can start collecting parts.

 

[JoshT]

After conversing with members on another forum this is my current shopping list:

• 97tm block
• 98tm heads
• 90-94 pistons (maybe)
• Crank Kit (97-98 if using pistons above)
• HV Oil Pump
• Comp 422 Cam
• Smith Brothers Pushrods (length?)
• Sealed Power Rockers
• E-fan
• Rocker Spacers (if I can find any)
• ???

Obliviously I need the 97tm block for proper mounting bosses, and the 98tm heads for proper emissions provisions.

It has been suggested that I upgrade to 90-94 pistons for a boost in compression. This would bet me a boost in both power and efficiency, but would also require 90+ octane (here that's premium at 93). Up front price isn't an issue, but not sure about long term cost effectiveness. If you look at as a ratio of MPG to Price, I have to pick up at least 2 MPG from this mod to break even. Not sure that will happen and if it does what if premium isn't available where I need to fill up? I could easily go either way on this.

According to the tech library, running heavier 94 pistons means I need to use the 97-98 crank. If not necessary, it'll depend on which is more cost effective, crank kit or machining.

Comp Cams 422 cam is a low to mid rpm range cam. Manufacturer specs claim 1200-5500 RPM range. Should be good for a boost in highway performance, without sacrificing low end torque. Need longer pushrods with cam change, and Smith Brothers products have been recommended.

Stock rocker arms have 180K on them and probably pretty well worn by now. Only roller or alternate ratio rockers I've managed to find are $800 for the set. Not worth it. Sealed Power makes stock replacements that are cast a little stronger. I'd still like to get rocker arm spacers if I can find someone that makes them, not luck yet. Not needed, but be nice to have.

Will definitely be an e-fan going in. Running an Explorer 5.0L dual core radiator, and I think I can cut up a Taurus e-fan shroud and mount it inside the Explorer shroud.

Also considering a P&P on the heads if I can find someone to do it for a reasonable price. I have a set of low miles aftermarket castings on the bad motor. If they are still good they would be a good starting point. I just don't trust myself or any of the local shops to do that work.

 

[RangerSVT]

Josh, at the price of the rebuild, consider doing a v8 swap. It'll be a mostly plug n play swap, and after its all said n done, you'll be $$ ahead. You'll also get a stronger trans.
If you went through head gaskets in that short of time, I'd suspect a bad mounting surface, bad/worn head bolts and/or improper torque sequence/load...

SVT

 

[JoshT]

I knew someone was going to say it and I had a feeling it would be you. I considered it. I'm currently stalled in the middle of a 5.0L swap on the 86, don't need to add another to the pile even if it is easier. If you can put a new 5.0L and new transmission in this truck for $2500 all parts included, then I'll be dropping it off at your place after taxes come in. If not, it's getting a new 4.0L since it's got a pretty fresh (<20K miles) transmission in it already. I don't need a 5.0 in this thing, the 4.0 will do every thing I need. If I should need more my dad has a 7.3L F250 that I can borrow.

I agree with a bad mounting surface, but I believe it is on the block rather than the heads. Problem happened 2-3 time with the original heads. Installed new heads and it has happened again two or three times now. Torquing done by the book with new head bolts. I'm not just going to install a new set of gaskets and try again, everything is getting checked out including the block. At 180K on the motor if it's coming out and getting torn down it's getting rebuilt. If I'm rebuilding I might as well make a few tweaks and mods to get a little more power or efficiency out of it, especially when much of it is stuff I'd be replacing anyway.

 

[RangerSVT]

For $2500 I could probably do a rebuilt 5.0 & trans. But as far as making the 4.0 more efficient, which a p&p, cam, roller rockers & roller lifters and a timing belt swap (if they make em for the 4.0 OHV) will do it, you have to look at the output of efficency. That motor will be making north of 200 hp and over 300 ft lbs, meaning the trans wont live long without an upgraded rebuild.
Keep in mind investing in a low buck stock refresh/rebuild of the engine, or just selling the ultra low mileage 4.0 trans will put some coin back in your pocket. What would your time frame be if you go the 5.0 route?

SVT

 

[JoshT]

Time frame? I'd say at least 4 months before I can think about it and that's if we don't get hit with another federal furlough. I am really planning to get my 86 on the road before I start messing with the 99, so that's liable to put it off even further. I guess I don't have a time frame, but it would be nice to have it done before next deer season which starts in October.

Truth be told I'm not sure I want to keep this truck, so I don't think it's worth doing a swap on. I have no real attachment to the truck and I really want to build a full size, got my eye set on a '68-'72 F-series 4x4. Before I can get and start building that truck I need to have my car paid off (3 years) and my 86 finished-ish (??? years). I intend to keep this truck around until those are done then I might sell it to fund that project, even if I keep it longer I won't need two 4x4 trucks when when the full size is done.

If I knew I wanted to keep this truck for the next 10+ years then the 5.0 would be an easy choice, but that isn't the case. I'll think on it and let you know for certain, but I'm really leaning towards keeping the 4.0L. Really leaning toward the low buck rebuild with a cam upgrade, and I'm pretty sure that will feel like a huge upgrade from the power it has now.

 

[RangerSVT]

I suggested the 5.0 swap more for reliability than more power. The 4.0 puts out great power. I'd still have my 225k mile 4.0 in SVT if it wouldn't be for the 3rd trans in it going out. If you have another vehicle to drive and are not dependant on this one, me personally I'd get a good junkyard motor for it, sell it and use that and the tax $$ for the F series you wanna build. But then again, this is someone with several builds going on at the same time along with building 2 customer's trucks as well. Did I mention I'm taking on another customer's V8 build in 2 weeks? Lol

SVT

 

[JoshT]

Any junkyard motor I could buy around here I'd be in the same boat I'm in right now. Everything in the local yards is high mileage and I'd be rebuilding before installing, if I'm going to the work of pulling and installing an engine it will be rebuilt first. As I said I'll be keeping this one for at least 3 more years, and if I rebuild the motor now I won't have to worry about it giving me trouble later on.

I'm less worried about the trans in this truck than I am the engine. Original trans lasted to over 150K and it wasn't properly maintained. This one will be properly maintained as long as I own it, now I just need a good motor to bolt to it.

 

[RangerSVT]

Yeah, probably better to rebuild the 4.0, and I'd definitely p&p from the throttle body blades down to the heads...

SVT

 

[JoshT]

Not sure which way to go on the Oil Pump. I'm going to get a melling pump, but as many of you know they have two different versions. So is the standard volume pump adequate for a mostly stock rebuild, or do I need to get the high volume pump? If you can also give a reason as to why it would be appreciated. I like simple answers, but I also like understanding them.

Below is my list of parts for this build. Please let me know if you see I'm missing anything major. I know that I don't have the smaller regular maintenance type items on the list. Not worried about them at the moment, they will be gotten before putting the back together. Please let me know if you see I'm missing anything major.

Okay so I have, or have ordered, the following:

• Fel-Pro Head Set (PN: HST 9081 PT-1)
• FelPro Conversion Gasket Set (PN: CS 9724-1)
• FelPro Head Bolt Set (PN: ES 72794)
• Sealed Power Camshaft Bearings (PN: 1844M)
• Cloyes Timing Set (PN: 94172SA)
• Dorman Freeze Plug Set (PN: 565-029)
• Comp Cams Camshaft (PN: 49-422-8) EDIT: Getting the 49-410-8 instead.

The following are to be ordered as inspections and machine work are done:

• Rocker Arms
• Pushrods
• Pistons & Rings
• Main & Rod bearings (-or- Crank Kit)

I've already got a brand new water pump on the existing engine. Less than 5K miles on it, plan to reuse it unless I see any obvious signs of failure when I pull it off.

Also plan to pick up a Taurus E-Fan rather than reinstalling the engine driven fan. Just got to make a run to Atlanta to get one from the Pull-A-Part (closest one with decent selection).

Should I send my injectors off to be cleaned and rebuilt? I figure this will be a two to three week job due to work schedule and machine work, so I think I'd have enough time. Did it once with another car at 230K, but not sure if I made a difference. That car was down for more serious engine problems so didn't have a good baseline to judge from.

 

[RangerSVT]

Timing cover crank seal, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, engine assembly lube, and 4.0 SOHC oil pan upgrade. Chamfer all water port jackets in the block & heads. High volume pump is not necessary on fords as it is on chevies, but I would go with a high pressure for added comfort...

SVT

 

[JoshT]

Crank Seal, Rear Main Seal, and Oil Pan Gasket are all included in the conversion gasket set. Thought that assembly lube was a given. Should have a bottle of it already, if not, I'll get another.

If I happen to see the SOHC pan when I'm getting the Fan, then I'll grab it. Otherwise, I'm not too worried about that one. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Will keep the Chamfering in mind when I'm working on the engine.

Never seen a high pressure oil pump for these. Can I assume that you meant Volume there?

 

[RangerSVT]

Nope, I meant high pressure. Ford engines have great flow characteristics, if a hp is not available, run the high volume, you can never have too much oil flow...

SVT

 

[JoshT]

If anyone knows of a high pressure pump I'll consider it, all I've ever seen has been the high volume.

Scratch the 422 cam from my list of ordered parts. I keep being told that it requires a dual valve spring conversion, although I see nothing about that on the Comp Cams site. Considering the 410 instead, I really think it will be more practical for my use. How often does a 4x4 4.0L Ranger hit 5K RPM anyway? Mine only ever hit it if I made it go there and that was really trying, not just putting my foot in it to pass. I've gotten conflicting reports on whether it needs dual springs or not. Found some of the better known builders saying that it doesn't, then in other places saying that it does need them. Have sent an email to Comp for more info. Will post up when I hear back from them.

 

[JoshT]

Heard back from Comp. The 49-410-8 is designed to be used with all stock valve train components. That's not to say that you won't need different length push rods depending on engine work, but stock springs are okay. I think the 410 is better suited to my usage of the truck anyway. Just ordered it through amazon, best price I found.