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Threaded shift knob install


DriverSideImpact

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2010
Messages
114
City
Milwaukee-ish, WI
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
So I'm sick of my lame stock shift knob, and I have a 5spd 1993 demo derby/parts Ranger, sitting buried in snow behind the garage, with a knobless stick. I also have a universal fit threaded Hurst T-Handle that I had on my Supercoupe. By a stroke of luck I have 7-8 headbolts from doing a gasket on my old 6.2 diesel Chevy a few years ago...which just happen to have the same 12mm-1.75 thread that the T-bird shifter had.
I figured why not combine all these factors into making a badass shifter.

I cut the splined part of the shifter off. Because I didn't want to make the shifter much, if at all, longer than stock.

P1010036-1.jpg


The shifter isn't really hollow like other Ranger sticks I've seen on TRS.

P1010037.jpg


Headbolt, jam nut, thread adaptor, and hurst T-handle.

P1010034.jpg


P1010035-1.jpg



My plan is to cut the bolt (which means destroying at least one sawzall blade) and then weld it to the shifter. I'm not sure of all the measurements and locations of where that will be. I'm not sure if I should cut more of the shifter off (like up to that collar)... or what.


Here's how much bolt and shift stick i have to work with...


P1010039.jpg
 
Looks good :headbang: I put a hand grenade on my shifter, I ony had to thread the shifter and the grenade, but I also had a bigger hole to work with. You shouldn't have any problems. :icon_thumby:
 
i did the same thing to mine but i drilled mine out and threaded mine internally threadlocked a bolt in,put a nut on to lock it in place and put my t handle on w/threadlock hopes this helps
 
Yeah... that was my original thought. Or at least slide the bolt down in the hole and weld around the top of the shifter. I drilled a little bit out of that hole. but I would need a smaller bolt. That 12mm is just a couple mm smaller than the shifter, and i think if i drilled it out big enough there wouldn't be enough strength.

However, I do have other thread adaptors for the handle. 2 SAE: 1/2"-20, 3/8"-16 And three metric: 10mm-1.25, 10mm-1.50, and another 12mm with a different thread pitch. But I am not entirely sure if I even have a tap and die set anymore (if i do it's very limited).

What size bolt/allthread did you use?
 
I'm also trying to figure out what I can do to cover up the bolt area... thats one of the main things that I'm factoring in how long to make it.

Any ideas on that?
 
I'm also trying to figure out what I can do to cover up the bolt area... thats one of the main things that I'm factoring in how long to make it.

Any ideas on that?

A piece of tube, plastic would probably good cause it would thread on and stay, but it could be done with steel. It would work but I'm not sure how good it would look

I'd just make the bolt as short as possible... an inch or 2 of threads isn't a big deal
 
I think I might cut the shifter a little shorter. To about where that smudge ends...and then just weld on an inch of threads from the bolt. I might use some JB weld to kind of build up to the bolt and make it look a little smoother then paint it all up.

This is my project for tomorrow. So I shall update with the finished product! :3gears:
 
I'm also trying to figure out what I can do to cover up the bolt area... thats one of the main things that I'm factoring in how long to make it.

Any ideas on that?

If you're re-using the stock shifter boot, put a washer on the stud before you thread the handle on. Get one that's big enough that you can stretch the boot over and hold it in place. I did this years ago on my '00 and it worked fine.
MikeR
 
Shit. I knew this wasn't gonna go as easy as I expected. My shift-boot is a little messed up where it attaches to the plastic floor piece. But the plastic shift-boot keeper is all busted. A lot of the pegs the shift boot attaches to it are broken off. It's broken between the t-case shifter and the trans shifter. And underneath around where it bolts to the floor its cracked.

So now that I've opened up a can of worms...I would like to fix this issue before i get everything all set. And it sucks cuz my parts truck is a 2wd and it has a really nice shift boot surround with cupholders.

The shifter is basically done, just waiting for the JB Weld (I used it to blend the bolt to the shifter after welding it) to cure then I'll sand it down and paint it. Then just have to screw the t-handle on, but thats gonna have to be on the truck to get the feel right.

Anyone have any good custom ideas that doesnt involve getting a new stock shifter boot base piece??
 
Shift knob installed!

Scratch that question. I just screwed the boot into the plastic trim piece...how long that will hold up, i dont know. :dunno:


Here it is welded, JB Weld on top to kinda smooth it out, and painted. The bolt is actually a little bit crooked to the right, but that works slightly in my favor because the handle fits my hand better.
P1010035-2.jpg


P1010036-2.jpg


And fully installed.
P1010038-2.jpg


P1010039-1.jpg


P1010043.jpg
 
Last edited:
so you just used jb weld and thats it???? i have a hurst shifter sittin around i want to use it for my truck
 
No, I welded the threaded part of a bolt onto the shift stick. I used JB Weld to clean it up and blend it from the shifter to the threads (the threads were slightly smaller than the shifter).

I would like to find something to cover everything above the boot still. Like some kind of a tape or wrap, rubber, a collar. But I'm not sure what I could use. :dunno:
 
What about heatshrink? you can get it in a few different colors in any length you want. I know Fry's electronics has 3 foot lengths in a couple different colors
 
:bawling:

Of course the day after I put the shifter on, my waterpump starts leaking. I'd be fine with it... cuz i was planning on replacing the thermostat and the housing when it got a bit warmer out. So I'd already be down on the front and taking stuff off... But it is still cold out... :annoyed:
 

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