those pesky painted aluminum rims

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not sure about the clear coat, but i assumed there was some sort of laquer finish on them because where mine are ugly looking there are clear flakes coming off.

Yeah, factory aluminum rims have a clearcoat on them to keep them super shiny... until it starts coming off.

 

[IRKillroy]

Not sure about the clear coat, but i assumed there was some sort of laquer finish on them because where mine are ugly looking there are clear flakes coming off.

polished aluminum rims DO NOT have any clear coat on them... how are you going to keep polishing them?!

the aluminum rims are the ones that come with a clear coat as has just been mentioned.

your rims could go through the same facelift mine is going through right now... but let me warn you, it's a pain in the butt... as in knocking those "studs" out and polishing the back side (why now?!)

 

[RangerFabWorks]

factory aluminum rims have a anodized coating on them. that is what you see pealing off. when you get the rims completley polished out, with no scratches or haziness, use a product called "ZOOP-SEAL" it impregnates itself into the pores of the metal. and keeps the rims from oxidizing, or hazing for up to 2 years.

 

[Derek The Great]

All FACTORY aluminum wheels have an acrylic powder clearcoat on them. OEM's use the clearcoat because aluminum, like steel, oxidizes (rusts). The clear coat inhibits corrosion when used over the right pretreatment. This is why I love OEM stuff. Their pretreatment + paint systems are all spec tested, meaning the wheel is capable of withstanding corrosive environments for xxx hours. They refer to this as 5, 10, or 15 year durability. Usually 5 year is the standard. The Aftermarket world has no durability spec standard and they offer no warranty whatsoever. So they offer things like unpainted super high polish wheels. That type of aluminum wheel must be polished regularly to keep corrosive deposits from forming.
Derek

 

[IRKillroy]

yeah, but if you paint over polished aluminum you get a crappy look, and when the paint fades you can't polish the rim... it's the cost of going polished aluminum vs. chrome...

and aluminum oxidizes when it's in contact with steel... other than that, it forms a clear coat over it (oxidation) when it's in contact with oxygen... if you know how to weld aluminum then you know what I'm talking about, otherwise go read up on it... it really oxidizes like rust on steel, when you put it in direct contact with bare steel... chrome is okay, that's why chrome lug nuts are fine with an aluminum rim.

 

[Derek The Great]

i wouldnt call it crappy as much as i'd call it orange peely. DOI (distinction of image) is the biggest problem with clearcoats. Smoothness is the next. The only way you get clear coat smooth like glass is by sanding it flat and buffing it back out. That stuff aside the clear coat used will end up changing the appearance some but it sure beats having 4 corroded wheels when winters over. Akzo Nobel makes a great product for wheels, 158C121, this is an acrylic powder clear coat. Been around for 20+ years and still used by oems today because of all its approvals. It's about the smoothest product out there but is a tad on the yellow side..
Chromed steel is ok against aluminum because the steel lugnut has been chrome treated, and the aluminum with some other system, so the bare substrates aren't actually in contact with one another. Good chrome (lead based) is pretty good in the durability department as well, just compare those painted bumpers xl rangers have with the nice chrome ones on the xlt's. It also does better in chipping tests too