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The Orange Crusher


Edit: Tad late, but turns out these wheels are off a Ranger. 90's third-gen 5-spoke's. Supposed to be chrome covered. Who knew?
Seen here:
1994_ford_ranger_2_dr_splash_extended_cab_stepside_sb-pic-56640-640x480.jpeg


Dunno anything about the truck just found it on google

Base wheels were not chrome, just like you have on yours.

You can get to the bellhousing bolts with a bunch of extensions and a swivel. Not the worst thing in the world.

With enough hoist you can pull both the engine and trans together and fight with them on your terms too.
 
Can't really pull engine and trans, I have to drop it from underneath. I'm working with really limited tools, as in a floor jack and a basic set of sockets wrenches and screwdrivers. The truck just decided to fall off the jackstands all on its own a couple nights ago. Didn't damage anything, but at this point I'm just gonna drop and finish everything with it on the ground. Drop the trans and t-case as one unit on the cross member. Supposed to be rainy tomorrow meaning I can't weld my exhaust up on my other truck, so I guess this will be my focus.
 
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Edit: Tad late, but turns out these wheels are off a Ranger. 90's third-gen 5-spoke's. Supposed to be chrome covered. Who knew?
Seen here:
1994_ford_ranger_2_dr_splash_extended_cab_stepside_sb-pic-56640-640x480.jpeg

They might be Ranger rims...I got a set from a yard up North and the guy there said they were Jeep rims...I didn't know or care as long as they fit and I could mount them...lol

But I did see some on Jeeps over the years and never on a Ranger so it confirmed to me what the guy said...thanks for the update though...:)
 
They're stamped with the Ford logo, so definitely Ranger wheels.

Progress update: Got three out of the five bellhousing bolts out. Can't reach one at all and the other is so tight that its caused a cut on every knuckle. So instead I pulled the tail light out, found out that it's more than the bulb that's bad, and found the same with the e-brake safety switch/bulb after taking the dash apart and finding the ignition switch and turn signal multiswitch both completely unbolted. Bolted those back up like they should be, so it's small progress but progress nonetheless. Also threw a head gasket in my tractor while I had the tools out and got distracted with it, ended up playing with it for the better part of the day...
 
Well, transmission's out. Pictures will come in a couple days. Clutch appears to be installed right, but the sleeve between the fork and spring seem to be missing. But I don't really know what I'm looking at, either.
 
In answer to your question about 33x10.50 tires: Mine has a 3" body lift and trimmed fenders and they fit just fine. Someone before me did the fender trim. I would try them without the trim first--may just work and save chopping up a classic body.
 
Okay, much research later I found this image. If the ranger's layout is similar to this, the goofs forgot to put a throwout bearing in it! :icon_twisted:
1.image


Edit: @Elutheros I just now saw your post, thanks! I think the 2nd gen fenders are a tad larger, but I'm sure a buddy of mine with 500 Jeep XJs and 20 tires of every size will let me borrow some to test! I've got a neighbor with a 1st gen B2 on a 4" suspension, 3" body, and 33s and it still rubs without a trim. It'll take a lot of lift or a lot of cutting. I don't want to go high if I don't have to.
 
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Picture time! I'm just cropping these to whatever size honestly.
YSjNPAe.jpg

The doughnut is all I have that holds air, please forgive me for it.

CZy7hFe.jpg

There's the trans. Something's missing, isn't it...

3WYCHco.jpg

I'm also missing the studs for the slave cylinder, really need to find some but I have no idea where I can. Suggestions?

o1Gbn9V.jpg

Interior's minty fresh. Showed no shame tearing up the original vinyl lining because it's ripped and stinky already. Gonna replace it or probably just remove it. Gotta figure out the correct way the shift boot goes on when it goes back together, everything for it is super rusty. The finding problems part of the program is over, now it's the reassemble-and-drive-on-open-manifolds-to-the-exhaust-shop time.

There is a pilot bearing in it, and there's a new-looking one I found in the floor board.
 
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Just thew the trans in tonight, the throw-out engages as it should! Put the bellhousing and cross-member bolts in hand-tight, and drained the t-case and prepped it for install. That's all I had time for. Work has me traveling for the next week or so, but it's closer than it's ever been to driving up the street!
 
I know this isn't an interesting thread, but this truck is running again. Still have to fill the T-case with fluid and make the clutch system work, but it's all bolted back together like it should be. At that point, the thread will get interesting, cus I plan on taking this truck all kinds of cool and nice places. Also knocked a bunch of the horrid bondo out of it today. A 3" by 2" chunk filled in a big part of the fender, and somehow it still looks better without it.
OLU4IuO.jpg
 
Keep going! The best thing about this truck? It's YOURS! Think of all the scratch you saved by doing it yourself! Look forward to updates and adventures ahead.
 
As of today I officially own this thing and I can drive it up the road for tests with farm tags. The clutch system doesnt want to work unless I pump the clutch 5-6 times. Any idea why? Otherwise it's working fine, except the passenger rear lighting has a short and it has a few other lights out.
I would post a picture but my phone and PC wont cooperate. When it comes to tech everything I have is old cheap and terrible.
 
So I've been going out on short trips with this, and found a problem I cant solve. The speedometer will cut off after a mile or so of driving and will work only after i drive backwards, even for a few feet, itll work for another mile. Checked the transfer case gear and the cable for any binding points. It all seems fine, no missing teeth, nothing. Ideas?

In other news I got a used vacuum canister, fixed all but the reverse lights, and only need those, an exhaust, and a horn (the factory button is gone) to make this totally road worthy.
 
speedo cable; did you check behind the cluster? Wondering if that may be loose. It almost sounds as if the cable is short and when going backwards the gears push the cable back into connection.
 

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