That Lower Coolant Hose - What's the Trick?

[Mike W]

Hi everyone - I just replaced the water pump and thermostat on my 1995 Ranger XL (2.3L). All worked fine, but I can't get the lower tube to seat correctly to the water pump. It's leaking like crazy. I can't get the tube in far enough to get the o-ring into the pump housing. What's the trick?

Much thanks!!

 

[Mike W]

Bueller? Bueller? Anyone? Please?

 

[Mark_88]

O ring? Are you talking about a clamp on the outside of the hose?

If the hose won't go up far enough onto the water pump there may be a fit issue with the new water pump outlet. Measure the outlet and check the old one to make sure they are the same size. If they are, then the hose should slide over the lip on the outlet...and if it doesn't, slip in a screw driver between the hose and the outlet and gently pry around the hose...

It may be that your pump outlet is slightly larger than it should be for the hose you have from the old setup...

If that's not the problem, maybe post a pic of what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[cody93]

i agree with the screw driver, if your right on it but cant get over it, use the screwdriver to lift it up over the lip on one side while pushing, the rest the hose should go on once its partialy started.

 

[dmassey]

Did you check inside the hose to make sure there wasn't any rust deposit from the old pump outlet? Also if you have a spring inside the hose be sure it's not caught between the hose and the outlet.

 

[Mike W]

Thanks guys, but in the 1995 2.3L Rangers, the lower hose leaves the radiator and fits over and is clamped to a tube. That tube leads up through the alternator bracket to the water pump. The tube is a force fit into the pump with, yes, a rubber o-ring. I purchased a new tube and o-ring from Ford and will replace the original. However, I have since found out that the water is leaking from where the new water pump attaches to the block. The water pump does NOT come with a gasket, but uses another rubber o-ring to seal to the block. My guess is that the rubber o-ring on the pump, which did not want to stay in place during the installation process, is not in the correct position and didn't seal. Gotta take the whole thing apart again and start over. I will, however, get a long shaft open box wrench to make removing the fan easier (my knuckles are already raw from the last time).

 

[pxbacher]

I will, however, get a long shaft open box wrench to make removing the fan easier (my knuckles are already raw from the last time).

Yeah. Do yourself a favor and either rent or buy the fan wrench set. If it's like the one for the 4.0, it includes a *thin* long-handled wrench and a gizmo to keep the pulley/fan from spinning. IIRC a regular box wrench won't fit on that fan nut - not enough clearance - but check it yourself as I haven't done mine in a couple of years.

-Pete

 

[jhammel85]

Yeah. Do yourself a favor and either rent or buy the fan wrench set. If it's like the one for the 4.0, it includes a *thin* long-handled wrench and a gizmo to keep the pulley/fan from spinning. IIRC a regular box wrench won't fit on that fan nut - not enough clearance - but check it yourself as I haven't done mine in a couple of years.

-Pete

Ditto. I've done it with a 2.9 but its so much easier with the tools

 

[pxbacher]

Since you did the little bolts last time, see here re which way you wanna spin that fan nut to get it off...

 

[tajvelocity]

I'm replacing the water pump and t-stat on my 99 2.5. I don't have a gasket on my water pump either (the new one didn't come with one) and I think it just uses that O ring in conjunction with RTV sealer to keep it leak free. I hope. This is not the first time I've read that the o ring is a pain to keep in place so I'll be looking out for that.