Test for frozen brake cylinders?

[paulnola]

I posted a few months ago that I was replacing the rear brake shoes, but could not get the drum over the new shoes. Suggestions were made to check to make sure the parking brake cables were not frozen, as well as the brake cylinders.

How do I check the cylinders? When I started the job, the rubber cylinder caps were dry and no fluid appeared to be seeping out. But I accidentally knocked one of the brass pieces out of the cylinder, and when I put it back in, fluid seeped out of the rubber cup. Did I mess anything up? Is there anything else I need to know about the cylinders?

I will tackle this job again soon, but wanted info and opinions from others before I do.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[mrcarcrazy]

If fluid is coming out of them replace them. they are very easy to swap. and not terribly expensive.

 

[Earl43P]

With the drum off and shoes installed, have someone depress the pedal slowly while you watch the shoes spread. Voila. Or, leave the tires, drums on, jackstand the rear axle, spin each side while someone presses the pedal. Tire will stop spinning if the brake is working.

I used to buy $7 rebuild kits for wheel brake cylinders, oh so long ago. Now, a new one is ~$15, so they get replaced. They are incredibly easy and I don't think you hurt yours one bit by putting that piston back in the cup. The most it needs is bled. If the bleeder breaks off, replace the wheel cylinder.

 

[AllanD]

I make it a point to FILL the area between the boot and the piston on
each end of the wheel cylinder with silicone grease

My problem with wheel cylinders has always been caused by the "boot" eventually getting filled with water and causing the piston to rust in place.

YEARS ago I had a problem like that on my "fast" Dodge (a 340Dart)
and I got a pair of cylinders sleeved by SSBco, then I personally
machined my own set of stainless pistons.

If I had to do it all again, I'd have the cylinders sleeved with brass
and I'd make the pistons from Titanium....

AD