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TCC Lockup -- By Manual Switch?


Update to this since I got my TCC lock working with a new solenoid.

I've come up with a little bit of a solution. I'll try it and revert back to a switch if need be. I think I'll leave a switch in place so I can always turn if off if need be.

The TCC can lock in third on the A4LD and the trans/engine seem fine with that as long as it is above ~45 mph.

I have bought a controller that can use the speed input from the VSS (which I have because of cruise control I assume, but I did verify that I have one) and this controller to lock it above 45 mph.

Lingenfelter STOV-004 Vehicle Speed Based Switch & Speed to Voltage Converter
Check out the deal on Lingenfelter STOV-004 Vehicle Speed Based Switch & Speed to Voltage Converter at Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
www.lingenfelter.com

I have also found a vacuum switch that is adjustable and that can be set to normally opened or closed. I can use this inline with the above controller and set it to interrupt the circuit when the vacuum is below a certain point (WOT or similar).

Superior K058 | Superior Transmission Parts - The problem solvers of the transmission industry

All of that with a switch that will leave the circuit closed unless I want to interrupt it or disable it.

The trans will downshift from OD to 3rd with the TCC locked, I experimented a little with that last night, so if I hit a hill or something it will just down shift and pull it with the TCC locked, if I give it more throttle the vacuum switch will unlock the TCC and let the torque converter help a little. If I slow down below 45, it will unlock with the controller.

Worth a shot right? Not a cheap solution per say, but I would like to see if I can get this to work.
 
@RonD

You are the man.

It worked. Speed switch is a great idea.

I have it all wired up. Sorting out a few details, but I have a relay that is triggered by the power to the wiper motor. From there the relay powers a small fuse block I've added that sends power to the controller with the key on. Spliced into the VSS as it comes into the engine bay. Added the vacuum switch and a switch in the cab in series in the circuit.

I am still tunning the vacuum switch, but the controller clicks it on at 45 mph. Seems to work well.
 
Good stuff

Thanks for the follow ups :)
 
off topic a bit, but have you ever heard of a tourque converter not unlocking? A couple of times a few years ago with the HHR (yes, chevrolet retro-car) I would come up to a stop sign, engine usualy cold and it would stall out, like if it was a manual and you didnt push the clutch in. Its not happened for a long time but I always wondered if it was a tourque converter that was locked and not engaging, but it doesnt make sence in a way, the stop sign was within the sight of the house, no way you could get to 30mph, probably was only in 2nd gear at best plus the times it happened engine was cold, I just hopped in fired it up, 3 clicks and out the drive I went. Id think converter wouldnt lock up unless in high gear and not until engine was warmed up fully. This thread had me thinking about that issue. I know now I can watch the tach and once its fully warmed up rpm drops a good 200 or so, sometimes you can feel it, like a extra shift.
 
My Lightning with a 4R100, locks up in third and OD. I can see it on the tach and fell it happen. My Ranger with a 4R44, locks up in third and OD. No tach but I can hear it and feel it when it locks. My Mustang with a 5r55 locks up in 4th and OD. Can see it on the tach, and feel it. On all except the Lightning, speed has to be over 40 to lock up. Lightning locks up at 35. And lock up on the Lightning feels like a shift.

When I first bought the Mustang, I was getting a P0741 code, for Torque Converter Clutch Locked Off. When the trans went out two months ago, had it rebuilt and a new converter installed. Now it locks up so nice and firm. Speed over 40, OD off, it's locked, then turn the OD on and the tach needle jumps down as it makes the shift and locks up instantaneously.
 
off topic a bit, but have you ever heard of a tourque converter not unlocking? A couple of times a few years ago with the HHR (yes, chevrolet retro-car) I would come up to a stop sign, engine usualy cold and it would stall out, like if it was a manual and you didnt push the clutch in. Its not happened for a long time but I always wondered if it was a tourque converter that was locked and not engaging, but it doesnt make sence in a way, the stop sign was within the sight of the house, no way you could get to 30mph, probably was only in 2nd gear at best plus the times it happened engine was cold, I just hopped in fired it up, 3 clicks and out the drive I went. Id think converter wouldnt lock up unless in high gear and not until engine was warmed up fully. This thread had me thinking about that issue. I know now I can watch the tach and once its fully warmed up rpm drops a good 200 or so, sometimes you can feel it, like a extra shift.

Yes, torque converter could fail locked, but shouldn't "get better" after awhile
You would feel a locked converter pulling against the brakes when stopping, and there would be some jerking as engine stalled
 
Racsan....The Chevy switch is backwards on the 700/4l60...they sometimes stick on....it killed many 700s


The psi switch and 5 pole on the brake is how I do these a4ld with manual bypass. I can see you being gun shy after toasting a unit.



I have a 5 pole on my brake that at one point was used for the a4ld my truck was born with .... Now it is used to mimic the gm brake switch to run cruise control on my ranger. Bad thing about n/a diesel ...was easier to go electric for cruise control ..
 
I have...tiss/toss with a drac module and ford vss in my truck ...as it has a 4l80 and ford t case .. the vss was used to turn off fans above 45 mph....

The rest for cruise and drive overdrive.
 
Drove it to work today, the switch is doing what it is supposed to, but I don't believe the TCC is locking.

I don't think the controller provided enough current to switch the relay as it is just a controller.

Time for one more relay that is triggered by the controller. That should solve that issue.

I'm also going to put a light bulb in place of the switch for now so I can set it up like I want it. Light bulb is on, TCC is locked, the bulb off means that the vacuum switch has opened and unlocked the TCC.
 
@RonD

So... My controller is working like it is supposed to. At 45 it closes the switch and give me multiple outputs 12V+, ground, etc.

But for some reason I can't get the TCC to lock. I have it hooked up to the 12V+ now that goes to trigger a relay that is normally open to close the circuit for the solenoid. Is it possible that my controller doesn't give enough amperage to trigger a relay?

Also, I have a switch in series that lights up when its closed to the solenoid and the light comes on when it hits 45, but it also randomly blinks around 30 mph and up until it is on solid at 45 mph.

I'm going to go back to basics and just hook up a fuses switch and make sure the solenoid is working again.
 
12volt Relays only draw 0.5amp so doesn't take much to hold one closed

TCC(or any) solenoid needs both 12v and a ground
A4LD was originally wired so solenoids get 12v key on, and then are grounded to activate them

So if you have original solenoid wiring inside the trans and two solenoids, TCC and 3-4 then the center wire/pin goes to BOTH solenoids, this would have been the 12volt key on power, but could also be a GROUND if YOU want, and then you use 12v on the other wires to activate each solenoid, doesn't matter to the solenoids

Have you measured the voltage output on controller, is it 12v on and off or does it ramp up, 5v then ramps up to 12v, should be an on/off voltage
 
I have only one solenoid A4LD. So just 2 wires.

I'll do some checking this evening. I'm going to go back to just the switch to make sure solenoid is working then go from there.

I have the controller hooked up as a trigger right now to a relay that is normally open. But for some reason I'm not getting a lock. I have a switch in the positive side of the wire going to solenoid and the other wire to a ground.

The solenoid doesn't care which side is positive or ground right? Polarity doesn't come into play with this?
 
Correct, a solenoid has no polarity, just needs both 12v and ground on its 2 wires

The TCC solenoid opens a valve that sends pressurized ATF to torque converter to lock it
Could be an issue with valve, passage, torque converter or PSI pressure, the pressure is what holds the "lock" in place
 
Correct, a solenoid has no polarity, just needs both 12v and ground on its 2 wires

The TCC solenoid opens a valve that sends pressurized ATF to torque converter to lock it
Could be an issue with valve, passage, torque converter or PSI pressure, the pressure is what holds the "lock" in place

I think it is something in my wiring at this point....

I'll go back to a switch just to make sure it works, I just replaced the solenoid with a NOS one less than a month ago and it worked via switch before I tried all this.
 

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