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This is a continuation of a previous thread (here)
NOTE: Do this at your own risk... I am pulling together my gathered knowledge of Ford Rangers I gained during my own research for this project. I am in no way responsible for any damage you do to your own truck/car by following this. It worked for me, that is all I know. Please do not consider me an authoritative source on this. That being said: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
After I installed that keyless entry system I knew my next step was secure the tailgate. Later (possibly around Christmas) I am planning on fabricating an aero cap for my truck, eventually have it painted to match-- maybe paint the entire truck a different color.
Tools needed:
- Corded/Cordless drill (with phillips bit and drill bit)
- Torx driver (for tailgate access panel)
- Electrical tape
- Plyers
Items to install:
- Barrel bolt lock ($4 from Lowes; looks like this)
- Lock Actuator ($3-4 from amazon; looks like this)
- two 1" long bolts w/ matching locking nuts to secure the barrel bolt lock (the diameter of the bolt depends on your locks mounting plate)
To start lower your tailgate and remove the torx screws which hold the access panel in place. Once that is removed you should be able to clearly see the back side of your tailgate release handle.
The access panel is towards the top of the tailgate when in the closed position, or towards the back of the truck when lowered. There are 8 torx screw (BE SURE TO SAVE THEM!!!)
Once you have located the release; the next step is placing the lock in a location where it will prevent the handle from moving the strikers on either end of the tail gate. (NOTE: The DIY that motivated me used 2 actuators and barrel locks, one on either side which extended from the gate to the bed frame behind the rear lights-- however, I discovered there is a large gap on the rangers and you would need a barrel bolt that is VERY long to accomplish this. I chose to use the method I am posting as a secondary option to the original) The position of the actuator is completely dependent upon the lock, however be mindful as the actuator still needs to connect to the lock. A friend commented that if someone really wants in that could damage the function of the handle-- if you inspect the way the system works the handle presses against the other side of that flange moving the butterfly down (presses on both sides). Placing the barrel bolt in this location provides a direct obstacle to the initial motion of the handle. The only "safer" way is to use two actuators and locks: one for each side of the butterfly.
In my ranger I noticed that I needed to add a spacer to get the barrel bolt in a position to catch the flange of the butterfly handle. I used some left over parts (knew I'd need those...) from my keyless cabin install.
I folded them with two pliers and hammered them into the stack to add strength. After I did this I screwed them into the wood block and drilled out a hole for my bolt to pass through. Washers, oversides nuts, wood, etc-- there are many options, be creative and remember... people won't see it; unless you write a how-to and post pics
this is important-- if your barrel lock only locks in one direction be sure to place the locking direction to the top of the tailgate... this means the edge farthest from the cab when the tailgate is lowered. If you don't do this then the barrel might slip into lock or unlock while driving with the gate up/closed. If your barrel bolt has lock/unlock on both sides then I'd suggest getting some duct tape to cover the precut grooves. It doesn't have to be heavy but you'll need it to stay so don't be shy-- remember if it is stuck in lock or unlock then you have to go back into the tailgate; AND whatever you were trying to do can't happen now cause your tailgate is stuck. Invest the time to do it right so you don't have to fix it.
Once you know where to place it, I used masking tape on the top side of the gate the placed the lock on it, lined it back up and marked the mounting places with a pen. Next I drilled the front point (rear mount was over a hole so I had to use a bracket). Use a drill bit large enough to allow the bolt to pass without catching.
This is the mock-up of my barrel lock. I placed two screws in the bottom of the bracket and tested the strenght; when fully tightened down the setup didn't flex at all. Placing a screw in the top side of the bracket would have been a pill so I didn't-- might regret that later.
After you've pushed and pulled your setup to check strength then undo it (sorry) and attach the actuator by bending the connecting rod around the barrel bolt's handle (no pic, didn't think about it). Make sure you don't have to feed it through the actuator first (most cheapo actuators you will).
Once you have connected the two then begin looking for a mounting point. the easist location for me was in the middle of a access hole. If this is the case, worry not! 99% of aftermarket actuators come with a bracket that will let you mount it here (see pic)
Now comes the easy part (especially if you installed your keyless entry)-- wiring. I didn't include pictures because there are so man options. At the bottom of the tailgate (towards the cabin if down) there are some drain holes, you can easily run a wire through one to get to the control module for the keyless system.
I ran mine through existing brackets/holes paring with other electrical wires when possible so as to maintain a "stock" appearance. For wire I used a single pair thermostat wire. This allowed me to run a single wire from the module and just split the pair at both ends to connect.
VERY IMPORTANT-- be sure to test your actuator's function before finalizing the connection. It's a low current so the connections don't have to be welded for a test, just make sure both are contacting and not more than 1 is touching a metal surface of the truck. Use your key fob and press lock or unlock; make sure the addition moves as it should according to the command and that it clears the handle on unlock. You shouldn't see it move side to side or even see the frame of the barrel bolt move, nor the actuator.
My new actuator's color code was reversed from the original kit I used. When I pressed lock the system unlocked. I switched the wires at the gate (since my connection was a white wire and red wire the module end didn't matter to me) then tested again. Once you see all is good, wire it up permanently and replace the access panel.
Congrats! You now have a keyless lock for your tailgate that automatically unlocks/locks with your cabin doors. If you followed my other how-to then you also have flasher confirmation (even if your kit didn't come with it!)
Hopefully over my Christmas break I'll do one of these for my ranger.
I've draw the plans up in my head, I might post them to get some feed back. It'd be a liftable cap-- much like a hatch back for a car (w/ hydraulic arm assist thanks to some donor cars in a junk yard I've yet to find). More details if/when I post the plans. I can tell you know it'll be with square steel tubing and welding will be involved.
Stay cool people!
NOTE: Do this at your own risk... I am pulling together my gathered knowledge of Ford Rangers I gained during my own research for this project. I am in no way responsible for any damage you do to your own truck/car by following this. It worked for me, that is all I know. Please do not consider me an authoritative source on this. That being said: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
After I installed that keyless entry system I knew my next step was secure the tailgate. Later (possibly around Christmas) I am planning on fabricating an aero cap for my truck, eventually have it painted to match-- maybe paint the entire truck a different color.
Tools needed:
- Corded/Cordless drill (with phillips bit and drill bit)
- Torx driver (for tailgate access panel)
- Electrical tape
- Plyers
Items to install:
- Barrel bolt lock ($4 from Lowes; looks like this)
- Lock Actuator ($3-4 from amazon; looks like this)
- two 1" long bolts w/ matching locking nuts to secure the barrel bolt lock (the diameter of the bolt depends on your locks mounting plate)
To start lower your tailgate and remove the torx screws which hold the access panel in place. Once that is removed you should be able to clearly see the back side of your tailgate release handle.
The access panel is towards the top of the tailgate when in the closed position, or towards the back of the truck when lowered. There are 8 torx screw (BE SURE TO SAVE THEM!!!)
Once you have located the release; the next step is placing the lock in a location where it will prevent the handle from moving the strikers on either end of the tail gate. (NOTE: The DIY that motivated me used 2 actuators and barrel locks, one on either side which extended from the gate to the bed frame behind the rear lights-- however, I discovered there is a large gap on the rangers and you would need a barrel bolt that is VERY long to accomplish this. I chose to use the method I am posting as a secondary option to the original) The position of the actuator is completely dependent upon the lock, however be mindful as the actuator still needs to connect to the lock. A friend commented that if someone really wants in that could damage the function of the handle-- if you inspect the way the system works the handle presses against the other side of that flange moving the butterfly down (presses on both sides). Placing the barrel bolt in this location provides a direct obstacle to the initial motion of the handle. The only "safer" way is to use two actuators and locks: one for each side of the butterfly.
In my ranger I noticed that I needed to add a spacer to get the barrel bolt in a position to catch the flange of the butterfly handle. I used some left over parts (knew I'd need those...) from my keyless cabin install.
I folded them with two pliers and hammered them into the stack to add strength. After I did this I screwed them into the wood block and drilled out a hole for my bolt to pass through. Washers, oversides nuts, wood, etc-- there are many options, be creative and remember... people won't see it; unless you write a how-to and post pics
this is important-- if your barrel lock only locks in one direction be sure to place the locking direction to the top of the tailgate... this means the edge farthest from the cab when the tailgate is lowered. If you don't do this then the barrel might slip into lock or unlock while driving with the gate up/closed. If your barrel bolt has lock/unlock on both sides then I'd suggest getting some duct tape to cover the precut grooves. It doesn't have to be heavy but you'll need it to stay so don't be shy-- remember if it is stuck in lock or unlock then you have to go back into the tailgate; AND whatever you were trying to do can't happen now cause your tailgate is stuck. Invest the time to do it right so you don't have to fix it.
Once you know where to place it, I used masking tape on the top side of the gate the placed the lock on it, lined it back up and marked the mounting places with a pen. Next I drilled the front point (rear mount was over a hole so I had to use a bracket). Use a drill bit large enough to allow the bolt to pass without catching.
This is the mock-up of my barrel lock. I placed two screws in the bottom of the bracket and tested the strenght; when fully tightened down the setup didn't flex at all. Placing a screw in the top side of the bracket would have been a pill so I didn't-- might regret that later.
After you've pushed and pulled your setup to check strength then undo it (sorry) and attach the actuator by bending the connecting rod around the barrel bolt's handle (no pic, didn't think about it). Make sure you don't have to feed it through the actuator first (most cheapo actuators you will).
Once you have connected the two then begin looking for a mounting point. the easist location for me was in the middle of a access hole. If this is the case, worry not! 99% of aftermarket actuators come with a bracket that will let you mount it here (see pic)
Now comes the easy part (especially if you installed your keyless entry)-- wiring. I didn't include pictures because there are so man options. At the bottom of the tailgate (towards the cabin if down) there are some drain holes, you can easily run a wire through one to get to the control module for the keyless system.
I ran mine through existing brackets/holes paring with other electrical wires when possible so as to maintain a "stock" appearance. For wire I used a single pair thermostat wire. This allowed me to run a single wire from the module and just split the pair at both ends to connect.
VERY IMPORTANT-- be sure to test your actuator's function before finalizing the connection. It's a low current so the connections don't have to be welded for a test, just make sure both are contacting and not more than 1 is touching a metal surface of the truck. Use your key fob and press lock or unlock; make sure the addition moves as it should according to the command and that it clears the handle on unlock. You shouldn't see it move side to side or even see the frame of the barrel bolt move, nor the actuator.
My new actuator's color code was reversed from the original kit I used. When I pressed lock the system unlocked. I switched the wires at the gate (since my connection was a white wire and red wire the module end didn't matter to me) then tested again. Once you see all is good, wire it up permanently and replace the access panel.
Congrats! You now have a keyless lock for your tailgate that automatically unlocks/locks with your cabin doors. If you followed my other how-to then you also have flasher confirmation (even if your kit didn't come with it!)
Hopefully over my Christmas break I'll do one of these for my ranger.
I've draw the plans up in my head, I might post them to get some feed back. It'd be a liftable cap-- much like a hatch back for a car (w/ hydraulic arm assist thanks to some donor cars in a junk yard I've yet to find). More details if/when I post the plans. I can tell you know it'll be with square steel tubing and welding will be involved.
Stay cool people!
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