T-case removal help

[sfwjesse]

Trying to replace the slave cylinder in a 93 ranger 4.0 4x4. I am going by the haynes manual, and have gotten as far as removing the 5 t-case bolts holding it to the tranny. I broke 2 of them off in the t-case.....which is awesome. Now i cant get it off the tranny for the life of me. I believe i need it off to remove the tranny. Anyone have any experience with this? How can i get this bastard off?

 

[snoopdoggie]

If you have three bolts out and two more broke off, without leaving any of the bolt head holding the case, it just slides back off the output shaft. There will be fluid dumping out as soon as it seperates. It is most likely just stuck on the dowel pins. I LITTLE light persuasion with a dead blow hammer will help.

 

[sfwjesse]

I have given some persuasion by pounding with a rod on the head of the bolts holding the T-case together. I have also crawled under and put my feet against it and kicked furiously. I have also pried with a crow bar in one spot. I havent damaged anything yet but i had to give up because i was getting more and more aggressive and pretty soon some aluminum was going to get busted up. I am thinking that one of the broken bolts broke off flush, and the shaft is all corroded and fused to the transmission through hole. Maybe i should heat that area up?? PB blast it??

 

[metalmacguyver]

Locate the alignment dowel and apply some heat with a propane torch. It is on the pass side of the case.

If that doesnt work, I usually resort to a cold chisel right at the seam between the tranny and case, right at the alighment dowel.

 

[sfwjesse]

Thanks for the help. I got it with a thin chisel. I put a scissors jack between the tranny and the case, put a pile of force on it, then banged away with the chisel for a few minutes in a few different spots. I havent gotten the case off but i see it has separated now so i know ill get it. I will just have to smooth out any damage from the chisel...which shouldn't be much.

Thanks again....now im onto the other 2 impossible parts of this task.....undoing the exaust and undoing the tranny.

 

[snoopdoggie]

Exhaust will be much more challenging than the trans.

 

[sfwjesse]

You are so right.....as i am finding out lol.

 

[AllanD]

When you get the trans down make it a pont to ream the dowel pin hole for a somewhat looser fit for the pin and whe you reassemble the truck make it a point to smear the dowel pin and the hole with waterproof grease.

As for the exhaust?

It's often easier to knock the radius arm nuts off cut the rivets off the bracket and remove the radius arm crossmember.

This allows sufficient droop of the engine to avoid interference with the top of the tranmission tunnel

It's something of a PITA to align the bolts when you ar eputting it
back together but nowhere near the heartache of fighting with the
Y-pipe to exhaust manifold bolts and having one snap off THEN having to pull the exh manifold to take it to a machinist to get it drilled and having several of those bolts snap off in the head....

Compound ugliness.

By comparison I think you can see why I recommend dropping the crossmember.
BTW replace the rivets with 1/2" diameter bolts.

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