T-belt clarification help

[modular]

The truck is a 1997 2.3L. I am at 83K on the truck and am looking to replace the t-belt for PM and have some questions to clear up.

What actually has to come off to do this? Do any pulleys have to be removed after the serpentine belt is off? The fan? It does not have A/C so the compressor will not be in the way...does the bracket have to be moved?

Just trying to figure out if any pullers or special tools I would need to be acquired. If that is the case I have a friend that is a mechanic that can do the job for $225. For those who have done this job themselves please supply the skinny

 

[scotts90ranger]

how hard it is to get the crankshaft pulley off depends on your location... if you're in the rust belt, you might need a puller, but a $10 steering wheel puller should suffice.

pulling the fan is just 4 bolts with 10mm heads.

the hardest part is to get the crankshaft bolt out, but if you don't have an impact wrench to help, you can take a breaker bar and rest it against the passenger side frame rail and bump the starter...

to help the crankshaft pulley come off, take a dead blow hammer or a rubber mallet or something and wack it a few times...

 

[modular]

OK, so the pulleys and fan do have to come off. My biggest concern in the tensioner. Are these a pain to mess with? I found that some just use a large flat screwdriver to move it and bypass the $100 tool. Is how to adjust it obvious once I am actually looking at it? I just don't want to get halfway done and realize I can't finish the job.I do have a Haynes manual but they do not show much. Lastly, should I get the t-belt and tensioner kit or just do the t-belt and use the original tensioner?

 

[scotts90ranger]

tensioner should be fine, I've done it without the special tensioner tool, the only reason I used the special tool last time is I borrowed it from work... all you need is a pry bar at the right angle...

 

[Evil_Twin]

You will have to remove the cast aluminum block on the drivers side of the engine that houses the air conditioning compressor and the power steering pump. Leave the pump(s) attached to their lines, no need in breaking the system(s).

The first time I changed my timing belt I left the block mounted to the block and it was a royal pain in the ass to get the timing belt cover back on.

Make damn sure that 3 marks are lined up properly before putting it all back together. I don't think the oil pump alignment mark has any significance, but nonetheless, line it up anyways.

You will discover as soon as you release the tensioner, either the crank or cam shaft will move out of timing. I just turn the crankshaft counter clock wise one tooth off timing mark then release the tensioner while holding the camshaft with my free hand. 9 times out of 10 it will line up with the timing mark. Rotate the engine over by hand a few times and watch the marks as #1 cylinder comes back up on TDC.

While you are there, now would be a good time to check/replace your water pump. I put a light coat of grease on the crankshaft to help ease the removal of the harmonic balancer in the future along with anti-seeze on the bolt threads.

 

[shadetree]

Make damn sure that 3 marks are lined up properly before putting it all back together. I don't think the oil pump alignment mark has any significance, but nonetheless, line it up anyways.

All three shafts are timed. The auxilary shaft has the camshaft position sensor on this model.

You do not have to worry about timing marks if you do the following:

Mark the camshaft gear with a sharpie marker with two marks. At the same time, make the same two marks on the old belt in alignment with the two on the gear.

Do the same with the auxilary shaft, only space the marks so you can distinguish from cam to auxilary.

Make one mark on the crank gear and belt.

Lay the new belt on top of the old belt, line up the cogs, and transfer the marks from the old belt to the new.

Put the new belt on the engine lining up the marks with the originals on the sprockets. Be patient, and make sure the marks are in line with the tensioner in place.

I would replace the tensioner. It is a common failure, and if it has miles, relpace it while you have access. Use a tensioner from the dealer. I have not found an aftermarket tensioner that will last as long as the original.shady