sythetic oil

[redsoxguy1918]

my trucks got 97.000 miles is it worth it?

i heard it could actually damaging to vehicles with a lot of miles

 

[kunar]

synthetic doesnt cause any damage period. it may uncover a leak that was already there but even that is unlikely. unless you run in really extreme environments though, synthetic doesnt do much except for extend oil change intervals. thats the only reason i run synthetic, and i buy the cheapest stuff i can get my hands on.

 

[redsoxguy1918]

thats wat i thought, but this guy is tryin to tell me that older piston rings allow the sythetic through into the combustion chamber and shouldn't be used on my engine, i know its probly true to a point, but the guy didn't really seem like he knew wat he was talkin about, just checkin

 

[Ozwynn]

my minivan has 160,XXX miles and I am running synthetic. Right now I got mobile1 10w-30 but only because I hada coupon for 50% off on a case.

its not using anymore oil than it did before the change. And it is certainly not burning oil.

FYI, I just gave it a tune up and took the valve covers off to look at the top half and it is clean enough to eat off. it was sludgy before...... about 3/4" deep in the lifter valley and I could spoon it out of the heads with a fork (My wife let it go 30K with out an oil change).


EDIT: I just went out and looked at the bottle .... that should read 5w-30

 

[Carlos Murphy]

oil

I had a 73 GTO 400 4-speed with 80,000 miles.
Got a free case of Mobil-1 and put it in (not the whole case)

Engine idle increased instantly and engine noise (rattles) became noticeable due to the "wetness" of the oil, REAL oil dampens engine noise.

If the engine came with sin oil in it NEW then it's no problem, it's worn engines that do not benefit.

 

[Ozwynn]

I had a 73 GTO 400 4-speed with 80,000 miles.
Got a free case of Mobil-1 and put it in (not the whole case)

Engine idle increased instantly and engine noise (rattles) became noticeable due to the "wetness" of the oil, REAL oil dampens engine noise.

If the engine came with sin oil in it NEW then it's no problem, it's worn engines that do not benefit.

I haven't experienced any of that..... infact my lifter tick is gone, and the engine runs much smoother (wine glass of water in the upper plenum vibration test)

 

[LearjetMinako]

I've switched from conventional to synthetic on my Ranger at 85k miles. It now has 115k miles and still runs great. Runs cooler in the summer, oil remians a cleaner black after each change, I go 5k miles each change, no leaks, and only burns off less than 8oz of oil between each change. And changing the oil on my co-workers Tauras to the same oil I run, actually made it quitier. The lifter noise just went away after a few seconds of running.

In my belief. Changing to synthetic is more than just extended oil intervals. Cleans better. Cools better by reducing friction. Reduces engine wear. Does not break down as easily in high heat enviroments. And can take higher shearing and oxidation.

 

[adv5500]

i heard that once you run synthetic, you must stick to synthetic for the life of the vehicle? myth busted or what?

 

[OilPatch197]

I changed to Synthetic after the engine rebuild. I thought it worked better, but it was my first use of 5W-30, seem alot thinner than what I was used to, 10w40 so I cannot really give a good experience, I felt it was not "lubey" enough(rubbing fingers together) but I guess it works, the engine is still running.

 

[exbass94]

You can switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional as many times as you want, you can even mix the two together. (that's what synthetic blend oil is). Just switched my Explorer to synthetic a few months back with 143k on it, and my 1992 Accord with 131k. Both are running excellent with no leaks or noises.

 

[LearjetMinako]

i heard that once you run synthetic, you must stick to synthetic for the life of the vehicle? myth busted or what?

Myth. You can switch and mix any of the two at any time. Hence, the synthetic blend oils.

 

[RustedRanger]

It is not a myth. It is the same thing as mixing differnt weight oils,it all blends together in the engine. I have done both and never had any oil related problems. Synthetic blend is just that,half synthetic and half regular oil. The synthetic seems "thinner" because it resists change from heat and cold. Regular oil seems thicker because when it heats up to operating temp is when it reaches it's "weight" or thickness. When you start an engine with synthetic in it the oil pressure gauge jumps up almost instantly and that saves the engine from alot of wear.

 

[Ozwynn]

all these things that the oldsters say about synthetic used to be true, but synthetic oil has come along way...... Far enough I trusted a $15,000 600 rwhp HP Pittsburgh Power overhauled Caterpillar 3406E to Royal Purple.

 

[RustedRanger]

A lot of the bad rap was caused by the dealers of the oil saying it didn't need changed. My late Step-dad was told by the oil dealer that he could go 100,000 mi before changing it......and he did. BUT by the time the car went to the junk yard it would barely turn over and was really noisy,junk pretty much. You can go longer but you still have to change it to get the junk out of the engine. In my experiance with gas at $2.00 a gallon it still pays for itself in mpg gained and going longer before needing changed. In my wife 07 Impala with gas at $4.00 a gallon it saved like $7 bucks a week in gas. On a trip from CA to Las Vegas we got 33.5 mpg at an average of 66 mph on the way back with 4 people and luggage. It's rated at 29 mpg highway and all I did was add synthetic oil and a quart of Duralube. The mpg averages for a week of her driving on the freeway and in the city to work jumped from 26 to around 29. If you plan on keeping the truck and if you break even money wise then it will save money because the engine will last a lot longer and stay in good shape.

 

[pocket-rocket]

My car started getting Mobil 1 after it got 30k miles on it, and it's only gotten regular dino juice once since (I was flat broke). When I swapped the stock heads for the ported and polished heads from my other car, at 135k miles, the crosshatch from the factory hone job was still in the cylinders as clear as day. It also builds 80 psi of pressure at 1,500 rpms cold, and 60 psi warm at the same speed (tight internals) with 145k on the clock now. Just don't break an engine in with synthetic. I've read it lubricates too well for a new engine to wear in properly.