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Supercharger for the 3.0L vulcan?


RollinWOT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
962
City
Cochise County
Vehicle Year
1998/2015
Transmission
Manual
I have heard from multiple sources that there is some sort of supercharger that is made for the 3.0L Vulcan. Does anyone know if this is a real-deal or if it is some sort of custom dealie? I've also heard that Whipple and Eaton make superchargers for the Vulcan, but i've looked everywhere and i cant find anything. Also, if anyone has this sort of thing equipped, how much psi, how well does it function, what did it cost, etc. thanks guys!
 
Whipple used to make a super charger for the 3.0L but discontinued it. you can find em floating around once in awhile we just had one for sale not too long ago. if you look on moranav6racing.com you will find a supercharger intake and cool racing parts if you are into that. the eaton super charger can be adapted to it with the lower intake from morana. you really need to watch with the 3.0L though cause it is prone to pinging which is ok if it is a N/A engine but boosting it will break some stuff.
 
any idea of the cost of the Eaton and what model it is/where it can be purchased?
 
Moranav6racing.com currently has an adapter to bolt the M112 to the 3.0. He's supposed to be making one for the M90 as well. M90's can be found all over(ebay, thecorral.net,etc) and Morana's intake is $450. You'd also need larger injectors, MAF, and a tune at minimum. I'd say $1800 minimum for the eaton setup.

The whipples are around every once in awhile if you're patient, and run $1800-$2500 depending on condition, but come with everything needed except the tune. They also are a more efficient design, which stays cooler @ boost.

Either one would help greatly, but I'd stick to the 8-10psi range on a stock bottom end. If you build the bottom end properly, and had some decent head/main studs, you could run 15ish psi without issue.
 
thanks stmitch, thats what i've planned on doing, because i need the boost for low end power anyway, and thanks for the references too!
 
im not even sure i would go to 8-10 on the stock bottom end. you will need a REALLY good tune and will prolly need to clean up the combustion chambers to prevent pinging. port and polish and headers would be some of the biggest things i would go with after the supercharger too. just some stuff to think on
 
im not even sure i would go to 8-10 on the stock bottom end. you will need a REALLY good tune and will prolly need to clean up the combustion chambers to prevent pinging. port and polish and headers would be some of the biggest things i would go with after the supercharger too. just some stuff to think on

In all honesty, I wouldn't put FI on anything without forged internals...
 
i planned on doing forged internals and port polishing, as well as all the other goodies, but this is a long way down the line before i have the money and time to do all of it and thanks for all the tips guys, it helps out beyond belief!
 
The internals (pistons, rods, crank) aren't really the weak spot in the 3.0, it's the rod bolts, or the head bolts that stretch and cause issues. Ask jp02xlt. He had a whippled 3.0 with over 100,000 miles that he ran for a while @ 21psi. It eventually stretched a rod bolt, and sent some pistons through the side of the block at over 5000rpm. Forged would be the safest way to go, but a thorough rebuild of the bottom end, some good head studs and gaskets, and moderate boost (10-15psi) would be no problem for a very long time.
 
The internals (pistons, rods, crank) aren't really the weak spot in the 3.0, it's the rod bolts, or the head bolts that stretch and cause issues. Ask jp02xlt. He had a whippled 3.0 with over 100,000 miles that he ran for a while @ 21psi. It eventually stretched a rod bolt, and sent some pistons through the side of the block at over 5000rpm. Forged would be the safest way to go, but a thorough rebuild of the bottom end, some good head studs and gaskets, and moderate boost (10-15psi) would be no problem for a very long time.

I really don't see the point of rebuilding the bottom end and not putting in forged stuff... I was looking at the Moranav6.com stuff... For the price of forged internals you could build up a 400+ hp LS motor... To me, trying to make power from the 3.0 would be cost preventative...
 
Or just drop in a 5.0 V8. :icon_thumby:
 
Yeah , I wouldn't waist my time or energy on a Vulcan.
Left alone they are quite good engines ( In a Taurus anyway save for those CRAPTASTIC transmissions ! ) and will last but you get to beating on them and valves bed, rods knock, and they just fail in every aspect.
I mean no offense.. its just that Personally I would not even think about it.
 
For what its worth you can get a low mileage Vulcan from a Taurus, $300, change the head gaskets, get a good tune & run 10-15 psi of boost, and it will live for many miles if taken care of, & will run really well. As for the cost of forged internals, In my opinion they would be nice (Morana makes some great parts) but I cant see spending the Money on building an engine with forged parts when you can readily find a replacement 3.0 so cheap. If you want to spend money on a vulcan put it into the heads & rocker arms, more flow & reduce valve train friction. You can shove junk yard bullets under a good set of heads & have a great v6 for almost nothing. As for the Superchargers they occasionally come up for sale as mentioned or there is the manifold that Morana has as well as a centrifical unit that Thomas Knight makes, other than that your only limited by your imagination, Money & fab skills.

These are tough little motors, not too many stock V8's or V6's will take 20+ psi as long as mine did (2+years) on stock parts, and the SC went on at just over 100K miles. Take a look at a rod bolt from a 3.0, that is the weak link.

JP02XLT
 

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