suggestions for pulling engine at pull n save

[swynx]

Going up in a week or 2 to pull a sohc 4.0.

Ive read about lifting the engine with seat belts.

But im more worried about pulling a bad engine. I know I should be able to turn the engine over fairly easy. And I should look for a later model with lower miles.

Any other advise.

 

[RangerSVT]

Depress the shrader valve on the fuel rail. You're not testing for pressure, but rather the smell of the fuel to see how old it is, this will tell you how long its been sitting. Pull the oil dipstick, some places drain the oil prior to hitting the lot, but you can still see the stick to see if oil has been burnt. Pop the radiator cap, any signs of oil and coolant mix. Rotate the crank by hand several revolutions, check for compression. Check the oil and air filters for condition. Not many do this, but look at the interior, does it look ragged out or like new, like new will tell you the owner took care of it. Check the intake galley under the plenum for signs of coolant. The thermostat housing is notorious for leaking....

SVT

 

[97RangerXLT]

^^what he said. Also if the truck was put in the junk yard due to a t-bone or rear ended, chances are the engine was running just before it was junked. A front collision could be a hit or miss if the engine was running after the coolant leaked out tho.

AJ

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[adsm08]

I'm with AJ. I don't pull powertrain assemblies from something that wasn't wrecked.

 

[det107]

Not many do this, but look at the interior, does it look ragged out or like new, like new will tell you the owner took care of it.

This is true but only to a certain extent. Most drivers will bury their foot to the sheetmetal and/or let it idle for the longest time cuz coffee & donuts are meant to be savored-

 

[Mark_88]

Something I always check is the reputation of the junkyard and what their return policy is...and get that in writing.

If you don't know what their background is from friends or people you know that have dealt with them then you could find yourself in a bind if they decide be hardballs.

I've only ever dealt with one junk yard and their staff always make notes as to where the engine came from...whatever...if the engine was pulled and the body/frame scraped then they will say so...or accident...or whatever reason they have this part in their hands...and they've never balked on their return policy.

 

[Shran]

Very risky...it better be cheap or have a great cash back warranty (NOT the typical "store credit".) Or be able to hear it run. The only way I'd buy an engine from our local pick-n-pull is as a cheap core. They write "good engine/trans/etc" on the windshield but I'm about 99% sure they just take the previous owner's word for it rather than actually test things. Some/most of the dudes that work there are just worthless too. I pulled a driveshaft a while back and the guy at the counter tried arguing that it was some sort of steering linkage part!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Certain years of Explorers had timing chain problems, I am sure you know of that though. Might pull the spark plugs too.

 

[swynx]

Pulled a clean 97 sohc. I know that was the worst year but it turns over. Antifreeze was good. No oil in antifreeze or vice versa. Oil was dark but not black. And didn't smell burnt. Spark plugs were super clean ngk platinums. No oil leaks any where. The engine is super clean and in one piece besides the oil pickup and oil pan missing.

2 weeks ago the odometer read 142k this week it was gone. Plan to change out the cassette and debating a complete rebuild as the kit is 600$

The explorer it came from was in a front end collision that popped both air bags and crunched the front end. It's pretty darn clean on the inside.

I think it's a good engine but even then so all I was hoping for was a good core and I got more than that. 200$ with gas. 30 day return with reciept. I don't know or care if it's in yard refund or cash because I spend lots of time there.