stupid way to fix rust?

[kx1254real]

I have an 89' that has some serious rust due to 20 winters in michigan (before i bought it). everything i can find about rust repair is only about small spots and says to get a professional if the rust is all the way through. My rust is totally through, so i'm thinking of just cutting off the rusty areas and welding on some new metal. would this work or am i stupid?

 

[nick344]

not a bad idea. check around you should be able to get patch panels for your truck.

 

[kunar]

nope, thats the way you gotta do it. nothing else works. cut out enough material that there is no rust left, and weld in some replacement panels.

 

[Iron Ranger]

I watched the autobody guy who worked on my truck "test" for how far out the rust actually was (who knows how far the cancer spreads under the paint!!).

He took a sharp tack hammer and pounded all around the rust area untill the hammer stopped going through the metal.

The spots it went through was weak rusted sheet metal under the paint. I had a 1" by 6" rust hole turn out to be a 3" by 10" area damaged from the rust.

That's the only way I was shown on how far the rust has gone. welding new sheet metal is the best way, patch panels are even better.

I've watched the truck shows where they "epoxyed" the panels on. Uh-uh. Welding is a lot better.

 

[meatheaded nucklebuster]

yep get new panels or patch panels and go to town if you wanna see some cool pics and kinda how to go about it check this out.
http://www.safaripacific.com/vehicles_mx2.php?x=cab
good luck I hate rust

 

[lowrider961]

This works did it on my classic use filler to smooth it up.

 

[Nhaz]

Hows the frame? since I live in Canada and I see shit tons of salt just like Michigan. If you don't know get under there and start taping the frame with the hammer.

Not really hard but hard enough to start knocking of dirt and road crap. If you start putting holes in it you have a serious problem. If you are getting large chunks of rust to fall off( we are talking pieces more then 3 inches long) then you again may have a serious problem.

both of those two problems are serious enough that you need to do some welding. and lots of it. or find another frame. the second problem doesn't sound as bad as the first but whats going on there is the frame is getting thinner in sections and can start to bend without warning. the first is Will start bending without warning =>


Note. lots of people including ford put on a undercoat. its black or grey depending on the dirt. having chunks of this fall off isn't as remotely as bad as chunks of frame =>. this stuff when it falls off tends to bring rust with it.

If the frame is in good shape its always a good idea to put that undercoat back on. a cheap oil spray is good for about a year. the good stuff is pretty much just straight tar => its messy and dirty well worth it. and will add YEARS of life to a vehicle. especially if you live around salt its not a bad idea to bring the undercoat right up over the paint on the main panels for a few inches. ugly yes. but it protects against salt water working its way under the paint.

 

[sfwjesse]

All depends on how much you care. I have an 88 BII that had some big holes and pieces rotted off on the cab corners and fender wells. I wire brushed the loose paint and rust, cut some of the bad stuff out, gave it a rough sanding, used some self tappers to screw one some pieces of sheetmetal in the shape of the missing outline, slapped some tiger hair in some of the holes, ground that off smooth, and spray painted it with rustolium. Took about 3 hours and $50 in matl., and 3 years later i have like 2 spots with a little bubble showing through.

If your someone who cares about appearances, then go crazy. If you just want to pass inspection, do what i did.

 

[Iron Ranger]

Also, most rust spots don't start from the outside, they start on the inside and work their way out. And when a bubble or a rust hole forms, it's usually worse than it looks

But as the years went by, better steel, paint methods, and water channels helped dramatically in rust prevention.

One good example: Cab corners on the rangers. If the tiny passages between the primary and seconday sheet metal layers are plugged from dust or debris, the water sits there and begins it's rot run.

Also, salt and sand debris build up between all the small areas of the metal and between the splash guards and the fenders.

Can't always prevent it, but you can always fight it.

 

[Toreadorranger]

I've watched the truck shows where they "epoxyed" the panels on. Uh-uh. Welding is a lot better.

Believe it or not but there are automotive epoxy's that are stronger then the weld or the base metal itself.

 

[Iron Ranger]

Believe it or not but there are automotive epoxy's that are stronger then the weld or the base metal itself.

Maybe so, but it's a trust thing. I trust a weld more than suped-up glue

 

[Nhaz]

heh you should try to get PL 400 construction glue to let go of something. It won't ever period. What ever its attached too will break first.

Unrelated to anything here I know but this stuff is among the best glue Ive ever used. A good practice to use this stuff in a floor construction. Any time you put OSB or plywood down on joists run a bead of PL400 along the joist before hand and then nail or screw down your board.


Not only will it Never move again the floor in that area will never squeak and the structure itself is stronger. and god help the next renovator that comes along and needs to tear up the floor. this stuff will even dull chain saws.

/gush off.