Sticky e-brake indicator fixes?

[ghunt81]

I would post this in the electrical forum but apparently nobody goes there because the three most recent posts from the last couple weeks have no replies.

Anywho...

My driveway has a slight incline, and whether I park the truck facing uphill or downhill, if the parking brake is set and I release it to drive away, the light stays on and it dings at me. If I set it and release it while still in the driveway the light will not go out, but if I pull out into the road and push it in just enough for it to click once and then release it, it will. It's not a huge deal but it's annoying.

I would just replace the switch but I can't find the actual one for this truck, only ones for older model Rangers & Explorers (they used a different plug apparently).

I took the switch out and the plunger moves freely and does not stick so why is it doing this?

 

[97RangerXLT]

I would guess you have a mechanical issue rather than an electrical one. The cable is probably rusty and is not returning the parking brake lever to the full off position.

Replace the springs and lube the snot out of the cable or replace the cable all together, that should get you going

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I got in the habit of using the toe of my boot to lift the e-brake pedal all the way up. Used to drive an F-350 that the spring for the release of the e-brake was so powerful it would rattle the dash when you released it without having your foot on the e-brake pedal and letting it come up slow. But letting it up slow or just yanking the release and letting it fly, it wouldn't sit tight against the stop (you would think with that strong of a spring, it would). So I would just lift it tight and everything would be fine. Annoying, but not enough for me to go looking for the issue.

 

[ghunt81]

Well, I have been grabbing the pedal and pulling it up to make sure the light actually does go off.

The cables and whatnot didn't look rusty but I will have to try applying some lube. What's preferable there...silicone?

 

[jeremysdad]

Well, I have been grabbing the pedal and pulling it up to make sure the light actually does go off.

The cables and whatnot didn't look rusty but I will have to try applying some lube. What's preferable there...silicone?

I usually use the spray white lithium grease. I suppose any grease would work, but maybe something light and oily would be best? (mineral oil, 3-n-1, motor oil mixed with a solvent to thin) would be best? Just a thought.

 

[Denisefwd93]

even with all new cables the set up sucks. The equalizer sucks big time and why the passenger side always wants to drag. We did all new cables, and spring, all new in the rearm hardware on the rear brakes with new cylinders, finally the ebrake stays where it should but I won't use it unless there is a real emergency.

 

[jeremysdad]

even with all new cables the set up sucks. The equalizer sucks big time and why the passenger side always wants to drag. We did all new cables, and spring, all new in the rearm hardware on the rear brakes with new cylinders, finally the ebrake stays where it should but I won't use it unless there is a real emergency.

I use mine daily. It's official name should be "'emergency/parking brake' means 'hold release and use in case of hydraulic brake failure (steer with knee!!!), use daily to park to relieve strain on transmission, manual or auto.'"

lol

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I use mine daily. It's official name should be "'emergency/parking brake' means 'hold release and use in case of hydraulic brake failure (steer with knee!!!), use daily to park to relieve strain on transmission, manual or auto.'"

lol

Have you ever actually tried to use the E-brake to stop you when the you blow a brake line? I have.... it's nearly useless in all honesty. About all it's good for is to take the strain off the transmission when parked. Unless you are sitting on a grade facing uphill, because the drum brake don't grab as well in reverse...

Ask me how I know...

 

[Andy D]

even with all new cables the set up sucks. The equalizer sucks big time and why the passenger side always wants to drag. We did all new cables, and spring, all new in the rearm hardware on the rear brakes with new cylinders, finally the ebrake stays where it should but I won't use it unless there is a real emergency.

Yup , I found the equalizer in a junkyard spring and all. This was the final fix for my malfunctioning e- brake. I previously had replaced the rear cables. Before that, the entire rear brakes from the backing plates out. Hard lines hoses calipers etc. In nearly 50 yrs of shade tree hacking, I have never replaced so much on a single car's brake system. But it finally works as it is supposed to. Most parts were under 20 $ but there is a jillion of them. I bought most of the parts from the local Auto Zone . I ran and flared the hard lines. I had the truck in a tent for 4 months. for a refresh. . I got it cheap because it was a little beat up and needed a clutch.