Steering rack

[Redheadedfury]

I have a 2010 Ford Ranger, 2.3l auto, rwd, reg cab. My steering rack is leaking. I've checked with a local auto wrecker and they have one but say it's from a 2010 Mazda B-series with a v6 and will not fit my 2010 4cyl ranger. I asked why and they couldn't tell me. I called local Ford dealerships, parts stores and local garages and no one has a clue why it wouldn't fit.
I have searched on here but can't find an answer other than some years had different power steering hose fittings. I've searched on Google and have had the same luck.
I know it may be a stupid question, but does any have any idea what the difference is. Only thing i can think of is that the steering ratio is different. I figured as long as the Mazda and Ford were the same years that they would be the same. They are both rwd also.
Any help would be appreciated, even if its a suggestion on a better way to search this forum. I'm just lost on hoe hard it is to find an answer.
Thanks in advance for your patience and advice.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I can't help on the steering, but for the search use the "google custom search" button at the top right of the page. It gets better results than the native search button.

 

[pjtoledo]

there is conflicting info on the NAPAonline site for those years.
car-part.com has 3 separate listings for reg cab 4, 6 cyl, and and extended cab. it appears there are differences.


seal kits can be had for $35

 

[Redheadedfury]

Yeah I've gotten basically the same info. A little more looking today seems to have revealed a common difference is in the number of turns from lock to lock.
Now I feel compelled to find an answer, even if its only for me. Guess the wife was right when she said I can become obsessed for information.
I asked around about buying a rebuild kit for the steering racks but was advised against it. I have never done it before and not sure i want to risk it failing horribly since its my daily driver.
Thanks alwaysFlOoReD and pjtoledo.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Yeah I've gotten basically the same info. A little more looking today seems to have revealed a common difference is in the number of turns from lock to lock.
Now I feel compelled to find an answer, even if its only for me. Guess the wife was right when she said I can become obsessed for information.
I asked around about buying a rebuild kit for the steering racks but was advised against it. I have never done it before and not sure i want to risk it failing horribly since its my daily driver.
Thanks alwaysFlOoReD and pjtoledo.

Pretty hard to go wrong on a simple re-seal and re- install.

 

[Redheadedfury]

Pretty hard to go wrong on a simple re-seal and re- install.

Have you done this before. If so, do you have any tips, I mean it does look straight forward. I have done lots of mechanical work in the past and will tackle almost anything but so many people advised against this that I figured I shouldn't bother.

I do agree though, $50 for a rebuild kit versus $200 for a used rack is a much easier pull to swallow.

 

[adsm08]

Most parts guys will only be able to tell you there is a difference because the part number or interchange says there is a difference. They do not have a book that breaks down what is different or why.

I would guess though, from my experience with Ford, that the tie rods are thicker on the V6 or extended cab units vs a 4-cyl regular cab. I know they did that on the Explorers. The V8 units had thicker tie rods, and thus heavier internals on the rack itself. I went through this trying to replace a tie rod on my Explorer last year. It was very confusing because the first one I got was boxed wrong. The part number on the box was correct, but it had a V8 part in it.

 

[Redheadedfury]

Most parts guys will only be able to tell you there is a difference because the part number or interchange says there is a difference. They do not have a book that breaks down what is different or why.

I would guess though, from my experience with Ford, that the tie rods are thicker on the V6 or extended cab units vs a 4-cyl regular cab. I know they did that on the Explorers. The V8 units had thicker tie rods, and thus heavier internals on the rack itself. I went through this trying to replace a tie rod on my Explorer last year. It was very confusing because the first one I got was boxed wrong. The part number on the box was correct, but it had a V8 part in it.

That's makes sense I suppose. Nothing like making things difficult. Thank you.

 

[Denisefwd93]

$200 for used???

All aside, if you can take it out and put it back in why can't you rebuild/ replace the seals? it's amazing what you can do once you try, I'm pretty amazed what I've been doing lately with these trucks I'm starting to need less and less help lol. I sold my other truck yesterday today's project is "take it easy" but I have a small issue to look into, the heat is "on" even when it is off, so I guess one of the controls are messed up.

You CAN, DO, this rack & re-seal!

 

[Redheadedfury]

Well I'm not saying I can't do it, just that I haven't done one yet and I'm nervous because its my only vehicle for work. But I guess if i can pull out motors and transmissions to replace, do timimg kits and water pumps, head gaskets and cam replacements then this isn't out of my league.
Have to stop being a cry baby and jump in. Guess i know what next weekends project is.

Yes, $200 for a used one. Beats the $700 Ford wants at the stealership.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Well I'm not saying I can't do it, just that I haven't done one yet and I'm nervous because its my only vehicle for work. But I guess if i can pull out motors and transmissions to replace, do timimg kits and water pumps, head gaskets and cam replacements then this isn't out of my league.
Have to stop being a cry baby and jump in. Guess i know what next weekends project is.

Yes, $200 for a used one. Beats the $700 Ford wants at the stealership.

worst case? you rent a car for a day or 2, Now that I'm down to one truck what I'd do.. but I'm retired also. good luck!

 

[BingBang]

The distance between the mounting holes from a regular cab to extended cab are identical at 285mm. The input shaft length and diameter are identical. The only difference is overall length at 1136mm for regular cab and 1143mm for the extended cab. The big difference is turns to lock(ratio), with regular cab being 4 and extended cab being 3 turns. They are interchangeable and have the same power steering hose line thread sizes for most years up until the last couple years made.