Steering rack adjustment?

[jewalker7842]

I have tried looking this stuff up on Google and here on the forums, but haven't found too much. I apoligize if this question has been asked already.

My Ranger has about an inch of play in the steering and I feel like I am going to die at higher speeds due to the looseness of it. I have dealt with steering boxes most of my back yard mechanic career (maybe 2 years at the most). I'm not expert at the stuff, but I can get stuff done if I read up on it.

I checked the front end to make sure there were no loose tie rod ends or anything like that and that the play is coming from the rack itself. I got up on the under and am not sure if there is an adjustment lock nut on there or not. I noticed a big hexagonal bolt--does that tighten up anything? The truck has 130k on it so I know the rack will need replaced in the future, but with a wedding coming up can't go spending it on my truck like I used to. Just trying to get by with a band aid for now.

So my question is there a way to tighten up the steering on the rack? I was reading that hexagonal nut has do with some sort of mesh adjustment and can tighten up the steering if done properly? Feel free to use idiot terms. Thanks in advance guys.

 

[Vexarana]

The play in the steering can be reduced by that adjustment lock nut, yes. But it can also cause steering to lock up and is only good for a small reduction in play from what I can tell.

I ended up just ordering one from Red Head Steering. They do a full rebuild and replace some of the parts that Ford puts in them so the box has a longer lifespan with less play.

The only problem I ran into was breaking my pitman arm pullers trying to get the sucker off, but a 20 ton floor press at a local shop solved that problem for me. It ran 200 and change, so a bit much. But well worth it if the play in your steering is bothering you a lot.

 

[fastpakr]

I ran into the same problem with breaking pullers on my F-150. Eventually learned that the trick is to only tighten the puller enough to apply significant pressure on the arm, not to use it pull it off directly. With it under tension, use a sledge to hit the arm around the base of the box. Come down from above as well as from the side onto the edge of the arm. Hitting it while it's under tension will break it loose without too much hassle and save you a lot of grief on broken tools.

 

[jewalker7842]

I appreciate the help guys. I guess I was not clear in my op. I do not have a steering box, but have a steering rack (rack and pinion whatever they call it) and thought there was no pitman arm on a rack? I have replaced a steering box before, but I'm thinking a steering rack is a whole different ball game. That big hexagonal bolt I was talking about is almost an inch across. It definitely looks like something that would be on a pitman arm. The steering rack just seems like an entire different thing to me or does it work on the same concept as a steering rack? Cause I did not see no lock nut or slit on the end of a bolt where it would be on a steering box.I'm sorry if I am confusing y'all I'm trying my best to describe it.

 

[Earl43P]

I would not adjust that.


I had an original rack on my 2000 4wd Ranger that had quite a bit of play, but ONLY after the truck warmed up. From stone cold to about the 3 miles down the road mark, it was tight as you'd expect. As soon as it warmed up, lots of play appeared. Based on that, I replaced the rack.

Here's what I discovered. Many of the rebuilders remove the mount bushings (big rubber where its mount bolts go) and give you some plastic spacers to install in their place. In other words, the racks I found in the AP stores, had wildly different bushings than OEM. I refused to purchase and install those.

I bought my new rack from The SteeringRack.com . If they are still in business, I DO NOT recommend them. Their rack DID come with new OEM style bushings, but those shysters refused to refund my core charge, saying mine was to corroded to rebuild. It took over two months of back and forth to even get them to tell me that.

The job itself is not too bad, but I recommend a helper and absolutely remove the front swaybar.

 

[jewalker7842]

So do not mess with the yoke adjustment, leave it be, and bite the bullet and get a new rack. Damn.

 

[Earl43P]

I feel your pain.
It's less than $200 in parts (I recommend replacing the Outer Tie Rods while you are at it), plus an alignment.

My son had one replaced for $400 out the door, at a shop. Same truck. The one I installed had a leak after less than two years. I was convinced it was just the rubber boot, but he took it to a shop and they replaced the whole rack, again. He didn't mind paying that bill so I kept my trap shut.