Starts, then dies (1994, code 211)

[4x4junkie]

Just suddenly started doing this...

When cold, the engine will start right up, then it idles pretty fast (about 2200 RPM) for about 5 seconds, then it drops down & dies. If I give it a bit of gas, I can keep it running.

After about 1 minute, something seems to "kick in" and then it runs & idles fine.

Code 211 says "Profile Ignition Pick-up circuit failure" in my Haynes book, but I'm a bit lost where to go with it (and of course there's not even a hint about it in the Haynes book ). It doesn't seem intermittent, the truck still runs perfect after it's been running for a bit.

Anyone have any ideas on this? (Crankshaft sensor? Camshaft sensor? Something else in the ignition?) Seems like if it was an ignition issue though, it wouldn't run at all.

 

[Donnie strickland]

From Alldata:

NC1 - Continuous Code 211: Erratic Ignition

Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

Possible causes:



Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
On-board transmitter (2-way radio).
Loose wires/connectors.
NOTE: If arcing of secondary ignition components is present, service as necessary. If an on-board transmitter (2-way radio) is present, use the manufacturer's instructions to check the routing of antenna and power leads.



It says further that after you check all of the above components and you find the problem, to clear all DTCs from the computer, Then, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes, exercising the throttle. Then run another DTC scan to make sure the code is gone.

 

[fireguy12117]

Have my Chilton’s book out and while I’m still trying to get exact locations for components (I’m reading up on all this to learn myself...) the PIP signal seems to run between the EEC, module and the EDIS unit. It looks like the EDIS unit is supposed to be mounted at the front driver’s side of the vehicle with motorcraft stamped on it. I’d be looking for a loose or bad wire/plug somewhere between there.

just to throw it out there, I’ve had an IAC cause similar symptoms as well as the engine coolant temp sensor cause havoc making the engine stall, but on both occasions, i never had the check engine light, or any other codes on those problems.

This Chilton’s book seems to have a lot more information then the Haynes books...

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, the IAC was my initial thought (I've had an issue with it once before being dirty too), but not this time. No check engine light came on either (well untill it finally died of course).

I guess I'll look over the ignition wires, and the link between those modules and see if I can find anything, although why it runs perfect after a minute or two is real strange... (wondering if a module is going bad).

Thanks for that info, that helps out a ton for knowing where to look

 

[4x4junkie]

Well...

I open the hood (this time while it was running) and I notice a 'hissing' sound... so my attention immediately turns from locating loose wiring/connectors to looking for a vacuum leak.

The damn hose from the vacuum manifold to the cruise control solenoid is separated at the coupling near the cruise unit. Hose wasn't cracked/split or anything WTF? So I reconnected it. Problem fixed.

Now I'm wondering why a code 211 was stored, and nothing to indicate a lean idle or anything

Anyway, appreciate the help guys
Hopefully that was it.

 

[MAKG]

I don't see how that can cause an IDM code.

IDM codes are very often wiring -- it doesn't mean the ignition is faulty (necessarily); it means the computer can't monitor it. At least on the older 2.9Ls, a VERY common cause was a resistor in the engine harness that broke leads. It caused only very minor driveability issues at first, but the computer would be unable to adapt spark timing. On these, the resistor was a brown blob inside the wiring harness right behind the power steering pump. It was between the ignition primary junction and the PCM. A Radio Shack 22 kOhm replacement could be soldered in for pennies.

So, I think you have two problems.

 

[4x4junkie]

Hmmm... Maybe it's not symptomatic on my 4.0L then? Since reconnecting the hose, the truck starts and runs fine now.

Could push-starting it somehow set such a code? (there was also a code 528 present, which pointed to a clutch interlock switch "malfunction", but I assumed that wasn't related to the other one).